Steve Williams

That just shows how stupid their protocols are. Does it not ever dawn on these clowns that if you had moved away, it is almost inevitable that you would register elsewhere, which would result in a request from your new practice, that the old practice forward your medical records.

My sincerest condolences Richard.

My pleasure Adrian.

A couple of sets that may be of some use: http://www.flickr.com/photos/stevewilliams7/sets/72157629779844691/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/stevewilliams7/sets/72157626019157194/

...and it turns off into S. Acacia Avenue.

...and plenty of pink elephants floating about, presumably

I like Haston Palms. This will confuse the NMRA Convention even more now! Could always be Haston La Vista. I'll get my coat.

Chris / Paul The details are on page two of the Florida City thread: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/62856-florida-city-tri-rail-fec-and-csx/page-2

That's a nice little layout Damin. That '0' Gauge stuff looks very nice. Not so easy to get over here, unfortunately. What make is the track?

Looking good. Will drop that awning over during the week.

I think opinion is likely to be split! :-)

Good Heavens! So my reference above to skimmed milk was more accurate than I realised!

I would definitely opt for 'spilt', unless, of course, it was fully skimmed, in which case it should be 'Plum and coloured water'.

Well at least it looks like there may be some historic justification for the restaurant title. My wife and son can certainly recommend it. Thanks for the responses.

The title is the name of the restaurant at the recently re-furbished Great Northern hotel adjacent to Kings Cross. Now I always associate that livery with the LNWR. Were there any carriages / dining cars in that livery ever running on the Great Northern Railway?

If it is not practicable to use double-sided tape (which is a good method if you can use it), I use the UHU 'All Purpose Adhesive'. I don't know if this is the same as the Balsa adhesive or not. It doesn't mention Balsa on the tube, so probably not. This adhesive is available in two forms - the 'regular' (although it doesn't say that on the tube) and the type with a green 'Solvent free' label. That is the one to use as it allows a degree of re-positioning. The 'normal' type grabs instantly and I found it impossible to use.

I taught someone like that once.

Oh my God. I've only weathered about four so far!

Some photographs of North Haston taken at TVNAM:

Thanks. Glad it's of use. Yes, those handrals really have a very high 'b*****ation quotient'

Appreciate the compliments fellas. I fully agree about the difficulty of subtle weathering, especially when not using an air-brush (which I don't). Sometimes the fact that Testor's Dullcote weakens the effects of weathering powders can be a bonus. As for Chris' observations, I can concur that subtlety isn't my strong suit as a rule. I am currently trying to get a Guilford Hi-nose GP40 ready for tomorrow and I took it out of the airing cupboard this morning to find that in a couple of places it looks like some fluid has washed away the weathering powders. Most odd as there was nothing in the cupboard that could have done it. I have had to try and redo it using a combination of more powders interspersed with the creative use of a full repertoire of obscenities!

Pete, It was me that did that loco. I am desperately trying to remember how I did it! The main colour palette I use is Precision Paints 'Dirty Black' and 'Frame Dirt', Humbrol 'Matt Black' (33), 'Leather' (62) and 'Metalcote Gunmetal' (27004). If I want to show chipped paint with bare metal, I sometimes use Humbrol 'Steel' (can't recall the number for that and I have run out. I also use an assortment of weathering powders. I think I gave the body an initial wash of 'Dirty Black', sometimes I will add a touch of the 'Leather'. This is then mostly washed off. The fuel tank is separated from the chassis where possible, makes working a bit easier. I usually give a keying wash of Dirty Black, sometimes with a bit of 'Frame Dirt'. When dry I will use the same colours but virtually with a dry-brush technique. I find this gives a nicer finish without any brush marks. Whilst still tacky, I will use weathering powders, usually on the ends and sometimes a bit on the main tank area. All depends really. When that is all dry, I usually use the 'Metalcote around the fuel filler to give a wet look. The bogies again usually have a quick wash of 'Dirty Black' and 'Frame Dirt'. This is built up in two or three washes. If I want it to look really care-worn, then I will sometimes add some weathering powders as well, again whilst paint is tacky to help with fixing. Because I then don't have to spray varnish that area, the powders maintain their matt look and don't disappear. Having said all that, increasingly of late, I am using 'Dirty Black' with a bit of 'Leather' rather than 'frame Dirt' The main body then has very diluted paint flowed into all the grilles using a '0' size brush. I used to use Matt Black for this, but tend to use the 'Dirty Black' with just a touch of 'Matt Black' and sometimes a hint of 'Leather'. They usually get a dusting of weathering powders towards the end of the whole process as well. Rust area on the body-sides tend to be diluted 'leather' darkened with either a touch of 'Matt Black' or the 'Dirty Black'unless I want the rust to be very fresh. This can be flooded into the vertical grooves of the bodywork or applied in patches as required. The roof treatment varies. Sometimes I will dry-brush 'Dirty Black'with a touch of 'Leather'. This sometimes has weathering powders added whilst tacky. For the very dark oily areas I will use either 'Matt Black or sometimes with a touch of the 'Metalcote' added for a bit of a sheen. Whilst tacky, I add black weathering powder where I want sooty exhaust. When the roof area is completely dry I usually dry-brush with the 'Metalcote'. This tends to give a bit of an oily sheen to the bodywork (I keep it away from the matt sooty area), it also makes detail stand out. When dry it is possible to polish the 'Metalcote' with a finger if required. This final dry-brush has VERY little paint on it and sometimes you think it's not doing anything, but it is! On the model in question, I used weathering powders for the cab roof, again, whilst dry-brushed paint was tacky. The paint coat was a mixture of 'Dirty Black' and 'Leather' I think. Walkways also tend to be a 'Dirty Black' wash and then some powders added. I don't worry if they are not sealed as they don't get handled. Broadly speaking, those tend to be the main techniques I use. I actually find the entire process quite stressful and not in the least relaxing! Mind you, I always found painting to be a battle between me and the canvas and not at all the restful hobby it is supposed to be. Now to get on my hobby-horse, what really irritates me is the fact that handrails now, more often than not, come ready fixed and they can't always be removed. If they can be removed, they are so delicate that the likelihood of removing them and replacing them without damage is highly unlikely unless you are an expert in micro-surgery. Detail now is so fragile that even using a very soft brush to dry-brush or apply weathering powders will result in things like lift rings or bonnet filler caps disappearing without trace. All this is after you have managed to remove the body from the chassis without damaging the handrails. God knows why Atlas still persist in still having body clips that need to be released from the chassis, when a couple of screws would do the job much more effectively. As for plastic handrails!!!!!!!!! If MTH can produce models with wire handrails on rigid plastic stanchions, I don't know why the other manufacturers can't. I have been advocating this to Athearn and Atlas until they probably think I am an obsessive nutter. The response I got from one of them was that they considered the plastic to be more durable and look more realistic! Not when the model comes out of the box with the handrails looking like someone has sat on them they don't. My flickr account has got some more examples of stuff I have weathered here: If you have any questions, do please ask. Hopefully, I will remember what I did, but it does all tend to be a bit ad hoc! :-) Steve

It was a jar that I had given Chris. It had been sieved using a small, handheld, kitchen sieve. Rather a time-consuming job! I found there were two types that my cousin presented me - it was her fire the stuff came from; one sort was a warmer (no pun intended) light beige colour, whilst the other was more of a very light grey/beige. I suppose it depends very much on the wood used.

I knew a girl like that once. Very exotic.