sjp23480

@bucoops - thanks for the pointer. I appreciate Isinglass offer them but I have one small thing to check (overall dimensions of the loco) and (in these straitened times) I was hoping not to have to splash out! Steve

Does anyone have a set of J21 drawings that they can scan and send to me, if they are in 4mm scale even better! :-) Many thanks for any help you can offer. Steve

View Advert 36-557 Bachmann 21 Pin DCC Loco decoder A 21 Pin (21MTC) DCC Decoder suitable for models fitted with a 21 Pin DCC decoder socket (taken from a brand new 3F, as I don't use DCC) Highlights include: Dual-mode DCC/DC decoder with Back EMF function 4 powered function outputs (+2 logic level outputs) Suitable for models equipped with DC motors (including coreless motors) Complete with instruction leaflet Advertiser sjp23480 Date 07/06/22 Price £15 Category OO / 4mm scale  

On a separate note, I always wondered how to detach the ladders from the sprue without destroying them? Steve

You can bid via the-saleroom.com, which is similar to ebay - just set the upper limit of what you are prepared to pay and stick to it. The P&P charges do verge on extortionate though, so have to be factored in too. If @Campamanis 10 minutes walk away, perhaps he could set up a business collecting and dispatching items for RMWebbers? 😉 Steve

I have had a similar problem with Hornby Patriots and Royal Scots, which use the same chassis block. I have tried the technique advocated by @Free At Last, but I found that loosening the top part of the chassis block (where the chip is mounted and the second picture in @Free At Last post), inserting a piece of packing at the front (I used a small piece of lead sheet) and then tightening up the screw provided enough leverage to keep the motor and gears (at the other end of the casting) engaged. Good luck Steve

I thought I would post a link to an upcoming auction at Gildings in Market Harborough: https://www.gildings.co.uk/auction/details/-models-toys-and-model-railways/?au=186&pn=4&g=1 Lots 167-184 consist of a range of primarily LNER locomotives. They looks like they are excellent quality, I am not sure who built them but the workmanship looks extremely good. They are all motorised but there is no mention of their working condition. I have reproduced the image of 2401 City of Durham below by way of a sample. The auction is scheduled for Friday 10th June, good luck to any potential bidders. Steve

Brian, What would you recommend? Steve

Everyone, A quick update on 828. Spoke to Rails who asked me to return it to them, even though it was delivered in December. They also sent me a label to send it back, so I didn't have to pay postage. Hats off to Rails for their customer service, they told me they would have to send it to Bachmann for a warranty repair as they couldn't replace it. They tested it on receipt, but could not recreate the issue? Transpires that the problem is not in the loco, apparently the coreless motor does not like my Gaugemaster Feedback controller. 828 is now on its way back to me, I have another controller and i am looking forward to seeing it run as it should. Just need to remember to disconnect my high frequency track cleaners, as they fry coreless motors I believe? Big thank you to Rails for their excellent service. Steve

For comparison, see a recently acquired Compound running on the same set up (I will have to fix that annoying click !😒):

I received CR 828 as a birthday gift from my dad. Putting it on my rolling road, it runs like a bag of spanners. It sounds like the gears are not meshing, they also seem to slip at times. It judders when running, forwards and backwards and the motor has a loud buzz at low speeds. I saw the earlier reports that it may need lubrication. So I have done the axles per the instructions and the little stubs on the side of gear tower. I have it running-in now, but I am not seeing much improvement after almost 1/2 an hour at 1/2 speed. See video below. The CR versions are sold out at Rails, so I am wondering what to do? It is a lovely looking engine, but the running quality is so poor I am inclined to return it to see what can be done? Any advice welcome?

Another vote for lead sheet from me - easily worked and shaped to fit. Managed to acquire a decent offcut from some builders working on my neighbour's roof!

I seem to remember reading that large amounts of liquid lead combined with Cyano expanded, with disastrous effects on the model if you don't leave any space for expansion.

@159220 you are very welcome, I saw these items and thought they may well go for bargain prices - glad you manage to bag a couple of them. Will keep my eyes peeled for more CP stuff in the future.

Have you run the loco on your layout? I have a number of RTR locos that run like this on the rolling road, but run on the layout just fine. May be I should have sent them back too!

@gridwatcherCame across these on the saleroom auction site today, not sure if it is of interest you? Auction ends 22-23 February. There may be other CP stuff, these were the only ones I saw. Steve https://www.the-saleroom.com/en-gb/auction-catalogues/gildings-auctioneers/catalogue-id-srgil10296/lot-ff110150-c6da-4eb0-bec4-ae2800a560d7 https://www.the-saleroom.com/en-gb/auction-catalogues/gildings-auctioneers/catalogue-id-srgil10296/lot-dad0ef1e-e3f1-4f97-95a4-ae2800a561d9 (x2) https://www.the-saleroom.com/en-gb/auction-catalogues/gildings-auctioneers/catalogue-id-srgil10296/lot-5aba388b-297d-491d-aac1-ae2800a5982a https://www.the-saleroom.com/en-gb/auction-catalogues/gildings-auctioneers/catalogue-id-srgil10296/lot-1ab248f8-b353-4667-a026-ae2800a56156

Just following up on this topic, I am experimenting with permanent ink: Edding permanent ink refill to be exact, brush painted into both wheels and other underframe components: chassis frames, break gear, etc..... Seems to go on well (using a Pound shop paint brush), dries quickly and seems quite resilient. Pictures to follow.

I have lots of things started, but not much finished. Most extreme example is a DJH Clan, received for my 18th birthday mostly built but still in works grey 37 years later! Someone will probably now tell me that Clan McKenzie was never fitted with AWS gear and I will have to start again!

Hi @BMS - sounds interesting, do you have a link to your 80W iron?

I use a Duratool digital solder station - just had to replace the iron after about 15 years use. A range of bits and related spares are available and digital temperature control makes it quite flexible. Works for me, but not cheap: https://cpc.farnell.com/duratool/d00675/soldering-station-uk-plug/dp/SD01387?fi=wp Steve

Interesting comments by @Nearholmerabout perspective earlier in this thread. David Jenkinson had some interesting observations on compression in his books Modelling Historic Railways and Historic Railway Modelling. Before you ask they are different, but with much duplication! IIRC His advice was to try to model station platforms as close as possible to scale, but apply compression to the rest of the infrastructure to make it fit the available space - adjusting train length according to the available space. This enabled him to run scale length passenger trains but led him to compromise on the freight trains, which were probably much longer in real life but still look okay if they are foreshortened in the model world. Reflecting on this, I wonder if his view was due to his preference for modelling passenger stock, thereby giving him the ideal setting to run these vehicles. If he had been an equally avid modeller of freight vehicles, would he have adhered to these principles? Ramble over! Steve

Thank you everyone, seems like brush painting with thinned enamels is the way to go!

I have a number of chassis (what is the plural for chassis?) to paint, which I am pretty okay with - self etch primer and Halfords satin black should do the job. I don't bother with the red between the frames as it is mostly invisible. I "blacken" valve gear with permanent markers, which give it a slightly oily appearance which is quite realistic, to my eye. But then I will need to paint the wheels, Romford/Markits variety. I have tried brush painting with enamels and the permanent marker technoques but haven't been satisfied with the results. What are your techniques for painting wheels and can you share some pictures of your handiwork? Many thanks, Steve

Only Bachmann make the Peaks (44/45/46). Heljan's is WIP - see the thread under the Heljan forum for additional insights. I think most of us are reserving judgment on the Heljan versions until we see them in the flesh.

There are also a couple of Crownline conversion kits for both low and high footplate Caprottis: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203793265676?hash=item2f7306740c%3Ag%3Af2wAAOSwI3th5C-Q&LH_Auction=1 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154796890447?hash=item240a9d194f%3Ag%3AnWIAAOSwvUVh4vYN&LH_Auction=1