Pugsley

Glad to see you've managed to get things sorted, and you're getting back in the saddle, Alex. I've not done any actual modelling for weeks, been suffering from a real lack of inspiration of late, hopefully it's only temporary.

As has a Scaleseven Ivor the Engine! I've got some pictures to prove it, I'll just have to see if I can download them from my phone.

Live diesel locos are also available on ebay: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LIVE-DIESEL-ELECTRIC-SPECIAL-SALE-G1-1-32-run-w-Accucraft-Aster-Live-Steam-/110829924974?pt=Model_RR_Trains&hash=item19cdfa726e

Ahh yes, I don't think I could resist a Tunnel Motor in the later 'speed lettering', I just hope I never happen across one at a show! Phenomenal attention to detail Jon, which is what I'd expect based on the De*tic that you did such a good job on. This will be one special spoon 8)

The spray filler may well help, otherwise the only way you can get it really smooth is to keep fillng and sanding until it's there. I think it's just one of those processes where there is no short-cut.

What a neat little loco! That's a nice narrow gauge fleet you're building up there - has the standard gauge taken a back seat for a while then?

Top stuff, as always, you never cease to amaze me with what you do with all these fiddly little things Thanks for the link to Mikroantriebe, that's bookmarked for future reference, there's loads of things on there that will be useful for future projects. That motor looks rather useful too!

Chris, I think that's 50010 - the roof looks blue to me and 10 was the only one painted like that. Cracking picture, it's made me go all nostalgic!

This is one that I've heard is pretty good: http://www.finelineprototyping.com/intro/ Essentially, you're looking for a company that offers stereolithography, which I think is the only way to get the resolution at the moment.

I model sectorisation myself, but can defnitely see the attraction of the Blue period in the late 70's and early 80's. An interesting juxtaposition of old locos and new, air braked, wagons, running on frequently steam era infrastructure.

Aahh, stop it please.

Thanks Everyone - Happy New Year to you all! I bought it in Bradfords Builders Merchants - it's code 3 (1.32mm thick), which seems to be the thinnest you could get, it's intended purpose is for roofing. It's better than that, it's 12WD Iain - Cheers! It was a bit rough, but it's getting better the longer I leave it (the cider that is, that particular pint is long gone!)

Yes, they are rather good. How have you done them, Pix?

There are methods that have much finer grain available, but they are a lot more expensive at the moment. Once that comes down in price, then it really is game on!

The second bogie has now reached a stage where I could plonk the loco down on the pair of them to see how everything looked and worked, so I couldn't resist giving it a go! It has highlighted a couple of minor, related, problems that are going to be fairly easily corrected. The bogie pivots need to be cut down a bit further as they currently hit the centre traction motor on each bogie, and the loco isn't quite heavy enough for everything to sit right. The first problem can be cured with a big file, the second with some of this: Which I think has to be the most economical way of buying lead for weighting models, admittedly it did cost £23 but I won't need to buy any more for a very, very long time! The threaded adjusters on the secondary suspension have also proved their worth - I've had to jack the side closest to the camera, in the photo below, up by about 1.5mm to get everything sitting level. It might need a bit of further adjustment when I set it up on a marble surface, instead of the cutting mat, but it's pretty much there. This pic does show it riding too high though, which is a combination of the two problems mentioned above. It looks quite imposing from this angle, which also slightly shows the rippled sides, which could create some interesting photo effects, once the loco is finished and I build a photo diorama for it. I also need to fettle the fit of some of the springs, a couple of them sit at funny angles, which is due to being slightly out when the pilot holes for cutting the mounting studs were drilled. If I were to do this again, I'd make a little jig for getting the drill centred in the cast springs, which were used to form the mounting studs. I've also made a representation of the encoder fitted to the refurbished examples, which is fitted to the centre axle, on the side opposite to the speedo, on the No. 2 end bogie. I did toy with the idea of not bothering, but decided that it would only irritate me in the future if I didn't do it. The picture above also highlights the lack of brake gear, which will be added once I've cast the necessary bits in resin. Once the bogie is fitted, the mechanism is pretty unobtrusive. The final drive gear on the leading axle does show up quite well at the moment, but once that's been coloured black with permanent marker, it shouldn't really show. I've also uploaded a video to Youtube, showing the suspension in action. I've probably built in a bit too much travel to the design, I don't think there's that much movement in the real thing, but it should cope with whatever rough track is thrown at it. The drivetrain might be a little noisy in operation, but I do plan on fitting a soundchip, so it shouldn't be too noticeable, with a bit of luck. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gQLQNdcBNHA&feature=youtu.be It appears to work like it should - the bogie moves around with no noticeable movement of the body (until it reaches the really big drop, but that's to be expected!), so I'm happy with what I've achieved. Next steps include casting the brake shoes and fitting the rest of the detail parts onto the bogies. Once that's done, it's time to crack on with the body.

Dunno what it is about that one of the 66, but it looks like it could be a model!

Yes, they have. They fell out of revenue use in the early 80's, I'm not sure when they were built but think it's some time in the 60's. Edit - I've looked it up and they were built by Pressed Steel or Ashford Works between 1962 and 1964 and were phased out of service by 1982.

Thanks for the responses everyone, I'd have thought that everyone was getting bored with this by now! I'm getting to the point when I'll be looking forward to it being finished. James/Jon - I'd love to have a miniature diesel engine in it - maybe I'll re-engineer it once nanotechnology becomes more viable. Imagine that, a working 1/43 scale 12CSVT! Mikkel - Thanks, I was looking at it the other day and thought it would be a shame to paint it! It'd be a crime not to use them for their intend purpose though, not to mention a complete waste of time! Mike - I reckon it would be if I was retired How's that layout coming on? Nigel - I think the model you're referring to was built by Bob Symes, and was actually in Gauge 1, rather than O. It's very impressive though, there's a link to a video of it in action on here somewhere, you should find it if you search for Bob Symes.

Slow progress continues with the bogie project, although the end of the first one is in sight, and as can be seen from the background of the pics below, the second is coming on quite nicely. It's taken me a little while to work out what I was going to do with current collection, but have settled on a fairly simple setup that picks up from 4 wheels on each bogie. I may add pick-ups to the centre axles at a later stage, but figured I'd try without to begin with, as it's easier! This is the final design of pick-up: It consists of an 11mm long piece of phosphor bronze strip, with a contact pad of brass soldered to one end. I've done this as I've read about phosphor bronze causing pitting on steel wheels if used in direct contact, the brass should alleviate this problem. For the first two I did, the strip is then folded in two, about 2/3rds of the way along. The second axle set was folded in half, which seems to work a little better. The collector arm is now a bit springy, helping to keep it in contact with the wheel, and is soldered to a piece of 0.7mm nickel silver wire, for strength. This, in turn, is soldered onto an L shaped bit of brass, soldered to the front face of a bit of copperclad paxolin. The whole assembly is glued on to the cross member of the bogie frame, as below. They're proving to be quite effective, although they haven't been tested on a track yet, I've tested the continuity using a multimeter and all is working as it should. They appear quite unobtrusive now and should be even harder to spot once painted. I was a bit worried with putting them on the outer edges of the bogies, but I think I've got away with it.... There's not much more to do to this one now, although I need to cast some new brake gear for it. The kit includes lost wax cast brake shoes, which do sit very close to the wheels once assembled. With the kit, as designed, this isn't a problem as the metal parts fit into the resin bogie moulding. Unfortunately this is not going to work with my etched chassis as there will be a serious risk of short circuits through the bogie frames, so I'm going to make a copy of the kit parts in resin. I have used the kit parts on the outer mounts though, as these mount to the resin frames. It's all looking rather crowded now, and that's before the rest of the brake gear has gone in!

Don't forget music videos either, there's a bit of EMU action at the start of this: and some tube action around 2:20. As an aside, that's a great video to watch for anyone wanting to capture the period details of the early 90's.

Nothing any better, I should think, you've done a lovely job here and it's been interesting to watch the project unfold. Like James, I'm curious as to what the next project is, but I'm sure it'll be good, whatever you choose to do.

You could always devise an etched body to fit between your cabs

Muffle the speaker and it'll be fine ;-) I still haven't tried mine, so can't tell you if it works or not.