Pugsley

Ah right, I thought they both were silicone based. So, in theory, does that mean that 5.1 will work as a paint stripper then?

Only DOT3 or DOT4 will work - 5.1 is Silicone based and designed not to affect paintwork. HTH

Water will do, that's all I've ever used and had no problems. HTH

Cheers Paul. There probably is scope for additional weathering to the roof walks, I just haven't managed to find a good photo taken from above yet. Now that Paul Bartlett's site is back up and running, I'll have to have a look through and see if I can find something suitable. Class photo will come shortly - possibly tomorrow Well spotted on the slight gap - I need to gently add a bit more paint in there. It's amazing what the eye doesn't see, but the camera picks up!

Thanks everyone B) B) Will, yes, they definitely add something to the model, so much so that it's going to become a standard technique, I think. The closest thing to a filter on this is the dabbing on of the different colours to add the variation in colour on the barrel. The best way to describe a filter is a coloured wash, that adds depth to the base colour. From what I can gather, grey normally responds best to a blue filter, so I added more blue dabs than any other colour. I'll do a step-by-step for the next one to demonstrate what I mean. I'll demonstrate the filter on something else, I've got a Dutch 33 about to enter works, so that might be a good candidate.

This is it for a while now, I promise! The more I use these oils, the more I like them, and the more I'm getting to grips with using them. The 3rd wagon is by far my favourite of the ones I've done recently, it just looks that bit better than the others. I've used a photo of a different tank as a guide for this one, for a bit of variety: http://www.flickr.co...57603195747980/ The model: I've used the same techniques that I've developed over the other two wagons, but have added more artificial highlights and shadows on the underframe, and on the roofwalk. Again, the underframe was exclusively oils, with talc added as required to matt the finish, the same was done to the bufferbeams. The base grime under the filling hatch was created by loading the tiniest amount of paint onto the brush, then rubbing it gently over the barrel. The streaks were added with a small brush, then worked into the barrel by tapping and scrubbing until the desired effect was achieved. I think a rake of these will look rather nice in the oil terminal on the layout, which I really should get on with building... More as and when!

Good stuff, I love what you've done with the tanker. I've resisted the urge to add much in the way of detail to the ones that I'm working on. The S Kits detail pack does make a vast improvement, I've done 4 Esso style ones now, and will be doing the Shell/BP style shortly. I'll be keeping any eye out for your progress 8)

Thanks Pix, you're too kind :blush: Hopefully the JSV will be released in its current form, as it's got great potential. I've never experimented with inks, but the same as you, have thought that they could be useful for some things. It's something I'll give a go at some point, but will watch what you do with them with interest.

Thanks both. Jon - give them a go, you won't regret it and they'll have applications beyond wagon weathering. I'll be giving them a go on a loco soon.

Still hasn't worn off. Sorry if this is now getting a bit boring, but I'm enjoying myself, which is the main thing! Tonights experimenting has revealed that the oils can be matted down nicely by stippling in talc. as demonstrated on the W irons. I've also been experimenting further with the addition of highlights and shadows, doing it a little more on this one than the others. Again, it seems to work, but I think it has to be carefully controlled, or the model could end up looking like a caricature of a tank wagon. I've played around with the barrel as well, putting larger patches of crimson, blue, white and yellow on before manipulating them first with a dry, and then with a moist, brush, using dabbing and scrubbing motions, as well as running the brush down from top to bottom. It seems to have added a slightly blotchier effect to the barrel, which I kinda like. Time to carry on playing!

Now there's a challenge! Thanks Jamie, you're too kind. I'd recommend Humbrol Mattcote as a matt varnish for brushing, suitably thinned with white spirit. I've used it in the past and it does dry nicely matt without much in the way of visible brush strokes. The varnish I've used on this wagon is experimental and not commercially available, but the Mattcote should work pretty much the same.

I think that's how JLTRT make most of their masters, certainly most parts of my 37 kit show similar evidence.

It's sad, but I've been like a child with a new toy over the last few days seeing what else I can do with these oil paints. I've known about them for a long time, Rich Divizio of mtw (http://modeltrainsweathered.com/forum/) has been using them for years, but I'm still getting excited by playing around with them and discovering things for myself. I think I need to get out more.... Side two of PR58265 has been completed, and I've now worked out how to use them for the spillage staining effectively: Which involves applying the paint sparingly, then dragging down with a dry brush. On this side, I've also used the oils on the underframe to good effect, using raw umber mixed with black and white in varying quantities to add highlights and shadows. This leaves things a bit glossy though, so it needed to be overcoated with some matt varnish on this one, as I didn't want any shine. Pix - I've used the JSV on this one, it brushes beautifully and dries nicely matt. It is definitely spirit based, and cleans up OK with the odourless thinners I normally use. I'll run some through the airbrush soon and let you know how it goes. Quick top shot: One more TTA to do now before finishing off both of the TEAs

Thanks Nick, I look forward to seeing how you get on. Pix - I suspected JSV might be spirit based. I'll give it a go on something, by brush, at the weekend and see how it responds to cleaning up with the thinners I've already got. If it all goes OK, I'll run some through the airbrush over the completed tanks and see how we go. I'll be very interested to see how you get on with the oils.

Not on goods from the 'enemy'. Of course! Having said that, I think conventional oils would work in exactly the same way, but there would be an increase in the drying time. The ones I'm using dry pretty quick, but not as quick as gouache. Thanks B) I haven't had a chance to try out the 'Jo's Sister' varnish yet - did you ever find out if it was spirit based, or acrylic? It doesn't matter if you haven't, I'll give it a go at the weekend on something and will find out that way. If it works as well as I think it might, looking at it, it'll be good for finishing off the tanks, as I want them very matt. They should work pretty well in 2mm, using the same techniques, but with much smaller brushes Dave - Thanks for the kind words B)

Yeah, that would help, wouldn't it! I'm using the Winsor and Newton Artisan range, which, as far as I know, are the only ones on the market. I got mine here: http://www.artsupplies.co.uk/ for great prices and great service. The paints themselves aren't cheap, but they'll last virtually forever, a little goes a very long way indeed. I'll edit the post with some pics of the unsullied tanks shortly. Bryn - You're too kind :blush_mini: I'll be interested to see how you get on, I take it you'll be tapping Pixie up for discount supplies... Jon - The black ones are a different kettle of fish, with the dirt slightly less noticeable. I liked what you've done with yours (gave you a +1 for them )

Your wish is my command....: http://www.designa-chassis.co.uk/88coil.asp

Thanks Wayne, I look forward to seeing what you do with yours B)

I bloody love these water mixable oil paints that I've been using! I thought gouache was the wonder stuff, well it still is really, but these oils are even better and much more versatile. It's taken a while to figure out how to use them effectively, it requires a slightly different technique to gouache, but I'm now glad that I've persevered with them after the initial disappointment that I had. I've used them quite successfully, I think, on a couple of the TTA wagons that have graced the bench of late. Exhibit A: The inspiration: http://paulbartlett....b08c1#h303b08c1 The model: Before: After: Pretty much all of the barrel weathering, with the exception of the streaking from the filling hatch, has been done with the oils on this one. The streaking is gouache, which is still the best method of achieving this kind of effect. The underframe is a mix of the oils and powder/hairspray, with additional powder used dry on top for variation. The powder/hairspray mix was usd on all the black bits of the underframe, with highlights and other colours added as required. The oils are great for adding subtle variation of colour, as they can be added sparingly and spread around, quite a long way, using a stiff-ish flat brush. They do dry pretty permanently, unlike gouache, after a period of time but the finish is still relatively fragile. They need to be sealed with varnish if the models that they're used on are going to handled regularly. They can also be used in wash form, with either white spirit, or water with a drop of screenwash in the case of these particular paints. They can also be used in a form of dry brushing to add very subtle highlights. Exhibit B: The inspiration: http://paulbartlett....17179#h2d017179 The model: Before: After: Again, the barrel weathering is exclusively oils, including the spillage stains. So far, I've not found anything quite as good for doing subtle weathering as these, especially with the ability to add extremely subtle variations in colour. The oils aren't as opaque as gouache, so they're no use for the heavier effects, for example I tried them on the truly filthy ex Esso tanker, as seen a few posts ago, and the oils wouldn't cover the original livery, even brushed on neat. I ended up using the gouache for that particular model, which reminds me that I must finish the other side of it! This is probably going to sound a bit pretentious, but I think these materials allow the boundary between modelling and art to be blurred a bit. To explain, part of producing a painting of a wagon would be adding the highlights, shadows and other subtle variations to bring the subject to life. In a way, weathering a model of wagon works the same way, except that the wagon itself is the canvas, if you see what I mean. I am definitely no artist, but am using these paints in almost the same way as one would, I guess. Still, whichever way you look at it, I'm pleased with the results so far, and look forward to seeing what else I can do with this stuff. More soon!

Don't get too excited about the Pantone 428 colour - InterCity print colours were quite different to the colours of paints used, lacking the brown tint. I've knocked this little image up to demonstrate: The top two colours are the official print colours. In the program in which I created this image (CorelDraw) you can see the difference between the coated and uncoated specifications quite clearly, but it is much harder to tell in the JPG format above (the uncoated is lighter). Below those are what I believe to be the closest Pantone match to the colour, which you can hopefully convert into a suitable paint. It shows that Hornby weren't actually too far out with 453, it's a bit dark, but the shade itself is pretty close. I couldn't find any that looked just right at 100% opacity for modelling purposes. I hope that's of some use in your quest.

Sorry for the misinformation, actually Railmatch don't do the Exec Light Grey in the acrylic range - that'll teach me to post from memory without checking! This is quite a good photo, colour wise, but not the best angle for comparisons: Fresh from the paint shop! It has a distinct brown tint to it, more so than Rail Grey for example. I've checked, and there was no BS number for this particular colour, but it really a light buff, rather than grey. This is quite a good image as well: Tamiya buff is a good starting point, but too dark. Mix some white in with it, to taste, and it should be fine. The problem with colour is that it is entirely subjective - two people looking at the same object will perceive the colour slightly differently, even before you add in lighting variations and photographic variations.

(Edited to remove misinfomation) Exec Light Grey is a bit of a misnomer, it's more of a beige colour than a true grey. I would argue that the specific BS number for the paint is irrelevant as the exact spec used on a model would appear too dark, although a Pantone reference may help to find a lighter shade in the same series. If you do decide to go down the Vallejo route (they are superb paints), I think you'll have to match to photos as best you can. Swallow livery had a white lower bodyside for locos and HST Power Cars, but the coaching stock was still Exec Light Grey. HTH

Ah right, I'd got it into my head that the 444's were only 4 car units which is why I thought it might have been a 442. I agree, it most likely is a 444 then Edit - Thanks for the confirmation Peter, it was a shame the 442s were sent away, they were a comfortable ride.

Am I right in thinking that's a Plastic Pig in the background? I didn't know they'd returned to their former stomping ground.

Thanks Mikkel. The water mixable oils are proving rather interesting. They're like gouache in a lot of ways, but seem to be more permanent. I've been told that they can be re-wet, like the gouache, but I haven't tried that yet. They're not as opaque, so an all over crud job, like the former Esso tank in a previous post, would be trickier, but I think they're going to be ideal for subtle weathering jobs. I hope you go for the same idea with your GWR opens, a kind of multi-layer modelling as it were. On the face of it, those above are four virtually identical wagons. Look a little closer, and the difference in the markings will be apparent to the casual observer. If the hardened wagon enthusiast looks closer again, they may notice the subtler variations that divide the four into two distinct types. Something for everyone!