Pugsley

I would disagree with that. With a bit of practice, and using multiple layers of different colours, I think you can get a good result with gouache alone. For example, all the rust you see in this picture is just gouache (sorry, I've not done any minerals, so a Sealion will have to suffice). Work progressively from light to dark, whilst working inwards at the same time. I guess you'd do your average 16 tonner by joining a lot of smaller patches together, which would give the tonal variation to the rust. HTH

It's because the masters are 3D prints, most JLTRT kits show evidence of it somewhere, if you look close enough.

Just ask them what they used for the rodding on their layout, that normally shuts that kind of numpty up

:laugh: Either that's decimal point fail, or there's even more deluded people out there than I thought!

Glad you managed to get it sorted to your satisfaction B)

Yep! How on Earth did you find that? There's no way that I would have!

Great stuff Al B)

It was the partial road number that gave it away - I ruled out the B230, found the B1230 was near an old railway and followed it until I found the right place.

Thanks Nick. If you let me know what issue it was in, I've probably got a copy squirrelled away somewhere.

I think this one is going to be a bit of a stinker:

To the South West of North Cave:

Very nice, but the extremely large fence and bush give the game away somewhat

Thanks all! hymek - Yes, you only get one pair of eyes and I wouldn't want to get any of that foam stuck to them!

Railex has managed to do what several other shows have singularly failed to do this year, and that is to inspire me enough to get on with this layout. I've also got Chris Nevard to thank, as reading the description of Combwich in the programme sparked a Eureka moment - expanding foam filler! I'd been wrestling with how I was going to achieve the landscape that I desired, and this, combined with some flue tape (like gaffer tape only much, much stickier) is the answer. I considered blocks of extruded polystyrene, I have some left over from Chittle, but cutting it to the right dimensions and angles seemed like a lot of, messy, work. So, I've set about laying the tape over the areas to be foamed, then covering it in foam. I need to get some more, however, as the small can didn't go as far as I thought it might have. The foam will be carved to shape with an old kitchen knife. I also managed to pick up the last track components I needed and have now laid all of the sleepers, with the exception of the bay as that is a little close to the area being foamed, and once that stuff is stuck it's not going anywhere! More terraforming updates soon.

Looking good Alex B) Don't worry about how long it's taking to build, mine's coming up for 3 years now and it's still nowhere near finished!

Yes, that was one of the many expletives that were uttered once I realised what had happened! It was the experimental varnish that caused the problem, I must have picked up too much matting agent when I took it out of the bottle, as they went all white and speckly. Still, a bit of deft work with some wet and dry and a respray in the case of the TTA has sorted things out. James - It's not so much patience, as refusing to be beaten! Chris - It's always nice when something good comes out of a near disaster!

Thanks both B) B)

It's sad to see it go, I've had the opportunity to enjoy playing with SP a few times, the most memorable being the first members day up in Derby I look forward to seeing your next project Colin.

I've put a small article on the Showcase about colour variation with oils, as the format seemed to fit a little better over there. The article can be found here: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/showcase/?p=2289&preview=true

Due to a varnish malfunction, what used to look like this: Now looks like this: And what used to look like this: Now looks like this: The moral of this story is, if you're using a varnish for the first time, don't use it on anything important. On the plus side, I now get to try the filter technique on the TTA, and set myself a huge challenge in replicating this: http://www.flickr.co...57603195747980/ I wanted to do it before, but wasn't sure how I was going to do it. Now, these oils seem to be perfect for this kind of thing, so I'm going to give it a go.

Paul - there is definitely scope for additional weathering of the roofwalks, I've found a couple of photos that show grubby walkways on clean tanks as well as clean ones, like this: So I can now add a bit more variety in terms of the top weathering.

:blush: Yes, you're right, I hadn't spotted that the one I linked to had the wooden door.

Yep, I would say that looks about right, which means that the door handle is also in the wrong position.

Good spot! Yes, the bottom of the cab window is too high up the cab side. Looking at the pic below: http://www.railpictures.net/viewphoto.php?id=278798&nseq=7 The cab window should be deeper than the door window, but in the kit they are the same height.

No problem B) I think you're being a bit too hard on yourself, seeing as this is diddy scale these photos show it at, what, 4 times it's actual size? Not much of my stuff would stand that kind of scrutiny. I think it looks great, but one thing you could do is un-fade the black on the nose slightly, it looks a little too light, and that really is a minor, nit-picky, point to make.