Pugsley

Thanks for the answers to my previous numpty question - I've got those set up nicely now after the clarification about what should be used for what task. My next numpty question relates to this: How do I set this form tool up and mount it in the lathe? I'm a bit confused as it doesn't look like I was expecting it to. All help much appreciated.

There's a challenge Matt - I like to encourage other people towards lunacy, so I've got even more reason to get it sorted now! I'm not too downhearted about it - I am a little bit disappointed that, with all the thought I'd put into it, that it does require redesigning. However, looking at it, and thinking objectively, I can do it with the parts I have, it's just going to involve more work. Rome wasn't built in a day, and all that If this was a commercial project, I would go for a redesign, on two frets of different thicknesses, but it isn't, so I don't have to worry about that Scots Region - Thanks - your gluing your shunter to your palm bit made me smile. I've never actually done that, although have had a couple of close calls

That's some list! Perhaps you should leave it for a little while...

Thanks Stephen, and Ray. I'll give them a try and report back.

Real numpty question alert!! I've bought some carbide insert tools recently, and if I'm totally honest, I'm not sure which one I use for what: Could someone please take the time to enlighten me as to what does what, particularly in terms of facing and turning. TIA

Very nice James. There is definitely something very inspirational about the Forest of Dean railways - I was over that way a couple of months ago and saw that it was oozing with potential. Go on - another project on the go won't hurt

Early indications are that there is a fundamental design flaw in the etched parts for this conversion To be honest, I'm a bit annoyed with myself for not spotting and thinking about it earlier. The problem is that the cranked design of inner frame, designed to bring the axlebox into the right place, without having to mill down the bogie sideframes, doesn't allow the axlebox to travel high enough up the guide. I've now got to decide whether I press on with what I've got, milling the sideframes to suit, or go for a redesign. Whatever I decide, I have to make this work, not only because I'll be fed up with myself if I don't, I've now chopped up the sideframes into two parts - the main frame and the axleboxes still attached to the equalising beams..... I guess that it was asking a bit too much that it would be a success first time.

The next, somewhat elastic, deadline for getting this 'ere 37 finished is now Guildex in Telford. I'm hoping that, even if it's not actually painted, it will be mechanically operational, which took a step closer today with the arrival of this, from the etchers: I'm pleased with the way it's come out - pretty much everything has come out as planned, with the exception of the writing on the axlebox stirrups. I knew I was pushing my luck with it, as it was on the small side, but it isn't legible, as I'd hoped it might have been. On the plus side, you can see that something's there, so all is not lost: This weekend will now mostly be spent beavering away in the workshop, to try and get everything ready for assembling the bogies. I just hope that there's no major flaws in the design! There is a real sense of satisfaction when the shiny bit of metal, made from your artwork, comes through the door In terms of major bodywork, the loco is mostly complete. I've got to trim some of the bufferbeams away to mount the ETH gear, but the other major job was to fill in one cut-out on the side of the loco, and make another. This is one of those reasons that prototype photos are essential if you're trying to accurately recreate a particular loco - especially with 37's as they are a minefield of detail differences. Whilst studying photos of 415, I noticed that the semi-circular cut-out present on the model isn't there. There is a recess behind the cut-out, to thin the skirt in the visble section, so this was filled with two bits of 0.25 x 3.2mm, cut to fit (2.9mm IIRC), superglued in place. Once dry, I filled the hole with Holts Knifing Putty - which I've discovered is better than most model fillers, and cheaper too! The new aperture is based on dimensions scaled from a side-on photo of 415, found on the web. I marked the hole out, and started it off by drilling 1.5mm holes towards the corners. These were then joined, carefully, with a sharp scalpel. The hole was finished to size with small files. I made a list of all the things that needed doing the other day - I won't be putting it here, as it's too long! Suffice to say that there is plenty to keep me occupied for a while I've got a weekend to myself, so I'm hoping to achieve a lot this weekend - updates as and when

That's got it! B) B) A vast improvement and nicely done, subtle isn't easy but you've carried it off here.

Personally, I wouldn't bother worrying about the path colour too much - you could do a bit of drybrushing if you really wanted to. As long as it's a different shade to the ballast, I think it'll look OK. The concrete weathering conundrum is a tricky one - undoubtedly, darkening it like in the later picture is the easier option. The alternative is a lot of work with drybrushing and powders to introduce subtle variations in colour in it to make it look realistic.

That's all looking rather nice, Will B) The concrete is a realistic colour and will look good with a bit of weathering.

Pete, I've got some photos I took at Wenfordbridge a couple of years ago that may be of use to you. I'll dig them out and put them on here somewhere.

That's looking nice James. Don't worry about the little imperfections too much, I expect you'll be able to disguise those with a bit of weathering.

Thanks Dan B) It's an effect that still proving tricky to photograph at the moment, but once the whole things done and painted, it should work OK.

Well done Gordon, that looks excellent B) B) The only little thing I've noticed that you could do is to scuff around the area under the smokebox door where people would stand when clearing out the smokebox, but that would be an addition to something that is already very good indeed.

Bravery or stupidity - I'm still not entirely sure which Thanks for the vote of confidence B) I hope to achieve that with this one, but who knows! I tried the lighting thing but struggled to get anything other than the largest dents to show up. A bit of Klear to give the area a gloss finish seems to have worked - I'll just sand it off later.

Thanks Dave, most useful B) B)

Following on from the post the other day, I've managed to get a better picture with the help of a little Klear, water just wasn't working properly. I've also spent another couple of hours on this effect this evening (in the same place) and I think it's pretty much there now. (apologies for the slightly blurry photo) Other things are moving with the project as well, the artwork for the bogies was finalised over the weekend and the etching company think that they will have it done towards the end of next week. Body works will probably take a back seat once the etch arrives. Only another three quarters of the loco to set about with the burr.....

Thanks everyone B) PMP - Not sure what you mean by that, do you think the effect is too subtle at the moment? I must admit I am struggling to photograph it at present. Mikkel - Both really, I want it to be ultra-realistic on both levels. Like I say, it's a pretty tall order, but I hope to achieve it one day.

No, not finished the large 37, or the small one for that matter, but I've achieved something that I hoped was possible, but wasn't sure about. I was given a healthy dose of reassurance by Andy, here: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php/topic/16226-andys-plop-shop/page__view__findpost__p__153226 Which showed that what I was trying to achieve is relatively simple, and all the experimentation I had done (to little avail) with Tipp-Ex and other substances wasn't really necessary. I think that I've mentioned before that my ultimate goal is to one day take a picture of a model where absolutely nothing gives it away as being a model. A tall order indeed, but I have to have something to aim towards, else I get bored. To this end, I decided that the sides of the 37 need a bit of texture - so, this evening, I mounted a 3mm carbide burr in the flex shaft of the Dremel and attacked my 37 with it . Removing the tiniest amounts of material, almost randomly, in different directions, whilst constantly looking at photos, the effect intitially looks a bit wrong. However, smoothing with a bit of wet and dry (1200 grit, used wet) brings it all together nicely. I'm rather pleased with this: It's a very subtle effect (I think it just about shows up OK in the photos), which is exactly what I want, but it is very time consuming. 2 hours has seen me do one cabside and about a third of the main bodyside. I'm hoping that, come the end, it's going to be time well spent. More soon, hopefully. Edit - I've managed to get a better picture with the help of a little Klear, water just wasn't working properly. I've also spent another couple of hours on this effect this evening (in the same place) and it's pretty much there now.

I don't think you 'need' a CNC lathe for making your own wheels, but it will certainly speed the whole process up. There's some interesting info on the MMRS website about making your own wheels here: http://www.mmrs.org.uk/technical/wheels.htm It's something I'd like to do eventually, but I'm going to start off by modifying Slaters wheels for S7 using the S7 Society form tool (which should hopefully be delivered this week B) )

I guess that must be the best ferry in the world then..

Yep, I'll echo what Jim says, they are very smooth but also very noisy.

Now that is good news B) B) B) I hoped the Hornby NSE one would be the refurbished type, so my Replica/MJT one would be different

That's looking impressive Rich, although slightly smaller than I thought it was, compared to the OBA! Nice bit of weathering on the truck, too B)