James Hilton

I always find a good sketch helps me visualise how things are going to work - ever since the early days of armchair modelling for Paxton Road, so today saw me knock something up for Rose Hill. Usually I'd start from scratch but I wondered if I could build on the (poor) photos I took last night with some ink to show what I have in mind and check out whether the scaling factor will still trick the eye. What do you think? I'm pretty pleased. I suspect I'll lengthen the platform by about 10cm (up to a metre) which will mean a little baseboard creep. I'm going to mock up the baseboard shape in paper and determine whether or not I'll need a join or not. In the meantime I really should stop browsing the forum and crack on with the Pacer! (and still no fix for the blog posting date thingamy - hence the December 31st date - it's really today, Monday 4th January 2010 at 20:25).

Well Christmas and New Year have come and gone and despite a few items (a sound equipped 37, EWS Seacow and a Dynamis controller) I've managed to make some progress on Rose Hill. This evening I've been scaling up dimensions from Google Maps (great tool - when you draw a line it tells you how many feet it is!). From my simple layout (see below) I've determined a number of key dimensions: Platform length = 332ft = 1328mm Station building length = 42ft = 168mm Pub length = 52ft = 208mm Flatbottom rail = 440ft = 1760mm Bullhead rail = 175ft = 700mm Rough layout length (length of blue rectangle) = 628ft = 2500mm Woah! Daunting or what? That's a pretty hefty layout for just a SLT! So having already scratchbuilt the station building on a slightly condensed scale (as it was originally intended to just be a photo plank) I measured that up again. Length = 12cm. A happy comprimise? Anyhow for now it's far too good to scrap! So what scaling factor does that give? 16.8cm/12cm = 0.7 I then applied that to the other dimensions to see how they looked... Platform = 0.9m FB rail = 1.2m BH rail = 0.5m Promising, I thought - if it would pull it off full size, so out came an old roll of wrapping paper left over from Christmas and I laid things out on the floor. Wrapping paper, some postcards, Pacer chassis, track and a sharpie pen! As you can see it's still pretty massive for a single line terminus, and luckily, as the track plan is so simple, that kind of visually hides the reduction in length. For comparison here are some prototype shots: 1994 http://kevin818.fotopic.net/p48334824.html 1997 http://117305.fotopic.net/p47647470.html 2006 http://jst.fotopic.net/p37311167.html 2006 http://dwb.railcollection.fotopic.net/p35274350.html Now I'm at a quandry. This layout is supposed to be an exercise in prototype observation, in 'scale' modelling, and with an interesting baseboard shape to give a novel viewing situation if ever exhibited... Is this 'scaling' of reality really the done thing? I mean, is it a comprimise too far? If I don't scale the layout then it will need to be made as two boards - itself not a problem, until you lay the platform down and end up with a mighty big join in the platform, the station car park etc etc. I really wanted to avoid that and at about 170cm the reduced size plan is long, but do-able (and it will fit in my car - just). See what I mean, this is a real issue! Can I have a few thoughts please?!

Hi David, I've been wondering the opposite with all the beautiful models being released in N gauge! Your OO layout would be very different to your N gauge projects - space constrained I suspect! That's no bad thing. I'd maybe consider an inner city terminus, retaining walls, busy street scenes, roads crossing the railway at several points along it's length. Cyril Freezer's classic minories theme would be perfect. I have considered building an urban minories based layout for about 6 months but with the 2010 project and an incomplete Paxton Road it will have to wait (until someone releases a kit for a 507/508 EMU - it's a Merseyrail based concept!). Good luck. You will enjoy the greater scenic fidelity you can achieve in 4mm. James

Cool! How long can you run on the slope? A decent number of wagons/coaches?

Looking good and like you're having fun. This sort of layout really shows the benefit of N, round and round without looking like it is with some great operating potential and space for urban scenery.

Yes each Sprinter car is powered in real life - 1st generation DMUs had trailer cars but 2nd generation Sprinters had an engine on each car.

Sounds good.

Looking at your full size plan I'd say it almost looks like a station with small goods yard (which could be an engineers yard, an oil depot, or speedlink/enterprise depot - so you could run anything!)... Alternatively you could shift the 2 road shed to the front two sidings... Or you could completely re-draw the backscene edge and have the siding on the front right as 'hidden' and the rest as a depot, by turning the layout 180 degrees?

I'm hoping Hornby do a super duper 73 soon as I want 73129 in faded NSE as well

Thanks! Actually I think one is boarded over and the other is a roller shutter All will become clearer when I paint it - it's now got the back and roof on and the roof end boards and ridge tiles - and has been primed.

This looks like a nice subtle finish - any more photos, of the ends etc?

Lovely looking pair of locos there Graham I don't know much about that sort of camera gear but they look nice and compact and could be placed in some interesting places for different effects on a layout.

Thanks Martin. It'll go on the 'must do one day' list As I said I tend to cycle through my models, so I suspect I'll try them out on 08683 first

If you remember a few weeks ago I was moaning about the Slaters pantile embossed plasticard and it's lack of relief. I wanted something that had more relief and I could get the 3D effect on the ends of the roof showing overlapping tiles as well... Well the answer I came up with was perhaps a little different from the norm but before I tell you how I did it, here is a photo which shows the end result. I'm really pleased, it looks just right to me and hopefully the idea will help other modellers with a similar quandry - as it uses a similar idea to overlapping paper tiles used on all sorts of great buildings I've read about in Model Railway Journal over the years... So I looked at Slaters other embossed plasticard - and came across a sheet of the 4mm corrugated steel and I thought, hmm, this looks A LOT like pantiles, would it work if I cut it into 5.5mm strips and then layed them upside down? A small demo piece looked fantastic, so I moved onto the real thing... First up I cut a base piece of plasticard. To complete the effect I added a few strips of plasti-strip along the front edge to raise the first row of tiles and then layered them up the roof, 4.5mm showing of each row. The chimney is just single sheet thickness Slaters embossed brickwork with a plastic cap and I let this into the roof. The roof is simply strips of corrugated iron embossed plasticard layed up which gives a great appearance and accurate end on view as well However as you can see, the back of the building is still not complete! At least this shot shows how the building is built up of laminated plasticard - glued together using superglue where possible to reduce the risk of warping. I will be adding the rear and second half of the roof now I'm happy with the finish of the first half over Christmas. Meanwhile work on the Pacer has really slowed down a little - though this one is ready for priming. I'll crack on with the second car over the festive season as well! The detailed Pacer car posing with the half finished building.

I've spotted that already Simon - fantastic work - hopefully you can be encouraged to show more on a blog or detailing thread?

I've spotted that already Simon - fantastic work - hopefully you can be encouraged to show more on a blog or detailing thread?

I've always had a thing about Class 08s and 09s - and when younger rememeber seeing the Bachmann model appear as a pre-production sample in every years catalog and the model never make it to my local shop. [ When I returned to the hobby two years ago the Bachmann and Hornby models were available, with pro's and con's to both. I personally prefer the shape of the Bachmann model and they run very well on Paxton Road. I recently chose to model 09007 based on the Bachmann model of 09006. This required more extensive modification than previously and I also undertook a heavy fading and weathering job. This article has appeared in Model Rail (December 2009, Issue 138) and is reproduced here with kind permission of Model Rail Magazine. Faded Glory... Modifying a Bachmann model to represent work worn 09007. Article courtesy Model Rail Magazine - Issue 138 Page 92 - Words and photos by James Hilton When Bachmann released it's 08/09 model back in 2000 it took the 00 RTR market by storm and was released in a myriad of liveries over the next few years. Good tooling design allowed the variations in locker, access and cab door arrangements to be modelled as applicable to the prototype and the good running characteristics and well captured character has ensured it's continued place in the catalog. The Hornby challenger arrived a few years later. The higher level of intricate detail really sets the model apart from the Bachmann version but has been made available in less livery variations. I personally feel the Bachmann model captures the character of the prototype more successfully - and for those with a stud of these I present a case for detailing and upgrading the basic Bachmann offering to better reflect individual prototypes and close the detail gap with it's Hornby competitor. This article describes the modification of Bachmann 09006 into 09007. Although some of the steps are unique to representing a Class 09, some of the other tips and detailing are applicable to a standard 08, and the weathering tips can apply to any model, Bachmann or Hornby. PROTOTYPE HISTORY The twenty six original Class 09 were built between 1959 and 1962. Based upon the successful 08 (itself a development of prototypes dating back to the LMS) and specifically aimed at the Southern region they were geared for short trip work with a higher maximum speed of 27mph (versus 15mph of the 08) with the expense of a reduction in tractive effort. They were also equipped with high level air pipework for shunting Southern multiple unit stock. The original build are now classified 09/0 as during the 1992 a number of Class 08s were rebuilt with higher gearing for use on local trip freights across the UK ??“ categorized 09/1 and 09/2. After privatisation the class found themselves re-distributed around the UK as they're higher top speed meant they were useful shunters with the advantage of running trip workings between yard and customer premises. A testament to their usefulness, until late 2008 no Class 09 had been scrapped (however a number have been preserved). MODELLING FROM A PHOTO I always find my modelling much easier when basing my efforts on photographic evidence. These days the internet is a very useful tool and a few hours trawling the photo sharing sites often yield more than enough detail shots. My favourite is community.fotopic.net. You just type in the loco number, select 'photos' (rather than galleries) and you usually have at least one page of photos to select from. In this case I chose to model 09007 in circa 1999/2000 condition. At the time the loco sported a very faded Mainline livery, but had not been fitted with the Oleo buffers it received sometime during 2003. I managed to collect a good selection of front, rear and side shots to enable specific details to be captured and to guide the fading and weathering process. A selection of scrap plasticard off-cuts, various wire grades (some from Ratio kits, some old guitar string) plus some old plastic sprue - along with a set of Hornby bufferbeam pipework from a Class 31, were the only parts required for this conversion. I used some Fox transfers (the small black numbers on the back buffer beam, silver numbers on the sides and the post 1998 warning flashes) and Humbrol paints and varnish to complete the basic transformation. This was weathered using a mixture of a faded varnish coat, dry brushed colour variation, washes using Humbrol paints and some Mig weathering powders - all detailed in the Step by Step guide. SUMMARY The project was a good little evening project that stretched over two months. I am happy with the finished model and it fits perfectly with my ficticious MoD depot set north of Winchester on a spur of the old Didcot Newbury and Southampton railway. The modifications are within the capability of the average modeller and really transform the already good Bachmann model into an excellent representation of this diminutive, mundane but essential shunter. Next up - a two tone Mainline grey liveried Class 58, and getting around to finishing my layout! STEP BY STEP 1) Preparation The first thing to consider is the basics, and checking body details against prototype photos. Identify the changes required, remove unwanted details (marker lights, lamp irons etc) and make a list of things that need to be added or modified. 2) Rear high-level pipework The arrangement of hi-level pipework looks complicated but is formed from ____ thou wire formed to shape by eye and small pliers ??“ fixed with superglue. The bracket is L profile plasticard, the pipes themselves more wire, and the lever from the Hornby Class 31 bufferbeam pipework detailing kit. In addition the lamp irons have been repositioned and an extra one added. 3) Front high-level pipework The front air pipework looks slightly more complicated but is formed in the same way ??“ and is self supporting. Extra lamp irons were added to the sides of the radiator grill. 4) Front Steps This step (excuse the pun) transforms the Bachmann model. I believe the Bachmann front steps are about 2mm to narrow. They are simply removed by popping a knife edge behind them and easig them out. I remove the handrails completely. The steps are then sliced out and replacements added in plasticard, secured with superglue, before being re-attached using superglue. 5) Rear pipework The extra underframe pipework on the Hornby model is exquisite. I have gone for merely a representation, which tricks the eye into seeing the full detail. Formed from some .017 gauge guitar strings and 0.5mm wire following photographs. Best fitted before the cab steps, and you can gently remove the sand boxes to aid fitting. The orange pipework is attached directly to he coupler mounting. A representation of the small air cylinders behind the cab steps is made from sprue off cuts. The antenna was added to the cab roof to represent the cab-shore radio telephone fitted for mainline running, the part coming from an A1 models etch. 6) Bufferbeam detail I have used the pipework from a Hornby Class 31, but have successfully used Class 50 air pipework. Alternatively you could use your preferred supplier for the air and vacuum brake pipework. I also added a pipe joining the two air tanks together, formed from an old guitar string. 7) Re-numbering and paint touchup The original numbers were removed carefully with brake fluid and a sharp scalpel. These were replaced with Fox transfers from a pack designed for a Class 37. Any silver numerals in the standard tops font could be used. The small number on the buffer beam is from the Fox pack for Railfreight/Civil Link front numbers. The warning flashes were appied directly over the originals, and extra ones added where necessary. All transfers were set using Micro-Set solution, and Micro-Sol was used on the numerals to allow them to sit more closely over the raised detail. 8) Touch-up The detailing parts were touched up using Humbrol paints using photos as a colour guide. In addition the body colour was touched up where details had been removed. I took the opportunity to dry brush on some faded Mainline blue at this stage to give a variation in the fading effect. 9) Chassis weathering The chassis was weathered using the techniques described in Martyn Welch??™s excellent book ???The Art of Weathering??™. Matt black, gunmetal, matt chocolate and matt tan were applied (along with some thinners) to the outside frame using photos as a guide. Whilst this was still wet some ???black smoke??™ Mig weathering powder was stippled into the paint with an old brush. The coupling rods were drybrushed and given a dirty wash (matt black and matt chocolate) and the pipework and tanks given some weathering using matt chocolate. 10) First pass fade and weather I wanted to give a good variation in colour, not just fade the whole model. To that end I applied a little Humbrol Matt 25 to the body using photographs as a guide - to give a greater variation in tone. I made up a faded varnish (approximately 50% thinners, 50% matt varnish with a touch of matt white). I used Maskol to mask the window panes and applied the varnish with an airbrush. In this case I used purely white to tone the varnish, but it is possible to add a sandy colour or a green depending on the effect you wish to obtain. A good explanation can be found here: http://eastmoor.blogspot.com/2009/07/fading-fast.html 11) Body weathering Once the varnish has thoroughly dried I added the exhaust staining using Mig weathering powder, and the oil, fluid and rust staining on the body and around the hinges using Humbrol 98 matt chocolate and 33 matt black were applied by brush with some thinners. A cotton bud is useful at this stage to soften the edges as the thinners soaks into the varnish. It is most important to use a prototype photo to base your model on. A closely observed but badly executed weathering finish is much more realistic then a perfectly applied work of fiction. 12) Finishing touches You should now have a faded, stained, work worn model. At this point review to check no details have dropped off - and if necessary replace these now. Finishing touches then involve adding a greasy mix to the buffer faces (Humbrol 98, 33 and 53 - then stippled with Mig black smoke powder whilst wet) and some chipped paint on the grab rails. Check the wheel treads are clean and get the shunting and trip work started on your layout! LINKS http://community.fotopic.net http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/British_Rail_Class_09 http://eastmoor.blogspot.com/2009/07/fading-fast.html http://www.rmweb.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?p=207593#207593 MATERIALS 0.5mm nickel silver wire (spare from a Ratio kit) 0.017 gauge steel wire (assortment from used guitar strings) Stainless steel off cuts (from S-kits brake disc inserts) Plasticard (various thicknesses and profiles)

What a great start - I can see your quandry over the 3 way though, without it the plan loses it's depot-ness. Are you going for a diesel depot or is it going to be a station? (as you could model the back track as a platform road with the station building on the road overbridge disguising the fiddleyard)

Lovely model

You can get Silflor from http://www.internationalmodels.net/ expensive but worth it. Check out the Penhydd diary for some descriptions on it use! http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php/blog/69-the-penhydd-diary/

Looking great Jon some really promising angles there, lovely and good use of the 2010 square inches to give some decent depth to the board.

These still look nicely finished Graham. I thought the Bachman Farish 37 was available in ttg coal?

Cheers! I find my models evolve over time and in fact I've written up a list of improvements to undertake on EWS 08683 which includes fitting handrail knobs to the front step handrails, better bufferbeam and underframe pipework, slight tweaks to the weathering and potentially new coupling rods. In general viewing and operation though I find I can live with the Bachmann rods - although the Hornby ones are definitely a better attempt!

These are coming on nicely Martin I'm guessing they'll be finished in NSE? If so a lovely complex set of masking awaits! I wonder if anyone will ever do a decent 507/508 to make my Merseyrail based layout a reality?

This looks lovely - I'm a 4mm modeller who can't get over the fidelity of the new N gauge stuff. Great job.