Kenton

I know of no reviews in the press and only know of two types available - the drop weight type (as available cheaply from London Road Models) and the lever type from GW Models) see here for out of focus images. The GW Press is excellent for all scales and can be supplied with different sized anvils and punches. I have the complete set as scale is not a limiting factor for me. I would not be without it. The table is very precise and if you are good at maths you can even rivet in circles. It does have a few limitations - the size of the table clamps make it difficult to do a 7mm tender side in one run (you just run out of thread on the verniers) The other slight problem is that the anvil can become a bit sticky - especially the 4mm one for some reason and if you are not careful you can bend the fret as the rivet sticks in the anvil. It is one of those tools that probably only worth buying if you use it really regularly.

I was thinking more steam era rather than those ugly monsters I seem to recall reading somewhere that they tried a Black 5 down the line and it derailed on Ferry Corner. Given the track inset into the roadway and all the other restrictions including the height/clearance of the bridge and the proximity to the homes and buildings along the quay - it is a wonder anything was allowed down there. Can you just imagine a 37 grinding its way past within a few feet of your front door?

He may well have given me a lift on the footplate! The most memorable thing about the quay line was was the squeeling wheels as it negotiated the very sharp bends and the threats and "language" passed to rather ignorant car owners (usually grockles) who had this peculiar idea that a locomotive was only as wide as the tracks it ran on. My uncle used to work in the timber merchants on Commercial Road and I've very blurry memories of being up on the wood piles watching the comotion outside. They had their own siding off the route (one of a number) but I think it was out of use by then. Most of my memories are of the late 50's and early 60's it was so atmospheric and as a boy you could run alongside often much to the annoyance of the flag man. There used to be quite a bit of rail traffic mostly tomatoes from the Channel Islands, and of course the coaches with passengers, not forgetting the fuel oil. It did have some rather unusual locos visiting (and after my time) yes those 33s. From the bridge it would make a good shunting plank but would still require lots of compression. I think the station/ferry platforms and oil sidings have been modelled before. Weymouth also used to have a model railway "museum" with an operational layout (it was not far along the front towards the Pavillion from the bandstand. Again childhood hours passed - I don't think it was "fine scale" modelling but it was fine enough for my eyes at that age. Enough excitement for one day and pick up an ice cream on the way back to the beach.

Lucking, J.H. (1986). The Weymouth Harbour Tramway, Poole: Oxford Publishing. ISBN 0-86093-304-0 Beale, G. (2001) The Weymouth Harbour Tramway, Wild Swan Publications. ISBN 1-874103-67-4 Both books very detailed and worth locating. An excellent subject for a layout but to do it justiceyou will require quite a bit of space. it is deceptive.

I'm pretty certain I've read somewhere that the motor is the same unit that is used in a mobile phone (slightly older style) to vibrate. But I think if one went up in smoke I would just replace the complete unit, and look to add a resistor next time. My OO9 runs on 6-9V max and my main problem is getting more weight on board. Don't get me wrong, I like what you have done and in preservation there are a couple with canopies added. It was just that I didn't think that they came out of the factory as such. Working from preserved prototypes can be misleading. Has anyone heard if these Portram chassis are available separately yet? It remains an expensive way to go.

I wouldn't worry - I think it would be well beyond anyone's engineering capacity - challenge anyone? I had one open, they can simply fall apart if you let the black plastic sides slip, and struggled madly to get all the bits back inside using the photo I linked to earlier. I'm sure there must be a similar product out of Japan gauged for HO, but no one has identified it yet by ripping the guts out of an equivalent RTR. Such a low profile chassis would be in a great demand by 7mm NG'ers

Clive, that is really nice additional detailing - though I don't think I will bother as I have enough trouble seeing the detail as it stands on the layout (not normally using any extra magnification just to observe things) Mine seems to be running ok without a resistor (even if it is a little quick) - I guess I could revisit that one. My biggest problem is weight - not having yet found a suitable passenger it is so lightweight that it seems to float above the track requiring the inevitable annoying shove to get going. I will look again at Montys range of figures. Looking at yours and comparing to mine, I have concluded the gear and break handles on mine are too tall - so snipping may be in order. I quite like the covered version, though were there many/any produced like that? Johnathan, There are no axles in these Portram units. Or at least anything that can be described as such - the wheels on each side are attached to the side frame with what looks like a rivet. (see Clive's pic above) So I guess you could consider drilling that out - but I wouldn't rate the chances - then you would need to replace it and put that gear back !! I'm also intending to do a 4mm N-Brass Wickham using one of these Portrams - but it will remain OO9. I have one of their 7mm Wickhams stalled on the WB while I try to figure out a 16.5mm power unit. The supplied axles are totally useless being chopped up 2mm wheelsets. Probably requires something like the Portram in HO. The Portram unit is only 0.5mm clearance over track level so there is no/little leeway for filled in track and the Lister would probably have problems driving through static grass.

On first thought it would seem like a good idea - practice on scrap, but I think you will find that once you have made a couple of joins brass-to-brass, white metal-to-white metal and (the slightly more adventurous) white metal to brass, you will rapidly get bored and wonder why you didn't just buy a kit. With an etched kit, you get scrap brass in the form of the etched fret surround (certainly sufficient to "have a go"). White metal scrap is harder to find (though there is quite a bit on ebay) already made up into various items. You will find that the most challenging is white metal soldering - that is because it is a quite different technique (more about filling and using the solder like a hot glue. 25W for brass - anything less and you will have problems or get into bad habits. 15W for white-metal but even that might not be enough for loco kits (big lumps of white metal) Carrs Red flux works for both white metal and for brass. (Green is fine for brass but not very good for white metal) Never lead free solder and avoid multicore (its good for electrical and track but not really for kits) Spotless shiny clean metal always (don't even think about it unless it is bright), as little solder to get the job done - you will always use too much - so easy to think a little bit more won't do any harm - but remember you have to clean it up. some basic tools: fine flat double cut file and an old single cut file for the white metal, wet'n'dry (finest) paper, glass fibre pen, tooth picks/wooden pegs/small block of wood (preferably hard wood) Any problems just ask - there are quite a few on RMWeb who build kits every day.

As I had mine switched on and was attempting what would be near impossible (ok, just difficult) with a normal soldering iron ... A 0.6mm x 3mm length of wire soldered flat end-on onto an etched gear lever (no hole etched for the wire as the gear lever is only 0.4mm. The gear lever held in place on the plate with a magnet a tiny dot of solder paste, file the end of the wire flat and dip in flux, holding the wire with fine tweezers place end-on in solder cream dot, apply carbon electrode to wire on a low setting wait for phizz and switch off. All done - not for those of nervous disposition It is another one of those fairly expensive tools that when you finally get round to purchasing - and using - you wonder how you managed without it.

First time I have seen one of the LRM units. I must say there are not as many options as with the Ganderton RSU that I have - but I expect it will do as good a job. I will caution about sharpening to a point the carbon tip. I just did mine again today (just like a well used pencil it blunts itself) but the finer the point the more current is localised at the tip and you really do need to "plug" it down a setting (or two) - I forgot and vapourised the part I was adding Brass plate is not the best option either. You will soon see why after a while when you start soldering parts to it as well as each other !! Steel plate is very difficult to solder to and although seems less conductive it functions well. The other really big disadvantage is that brass does not 'take' magnets. Magnets and RSUs go together along with card insulators really well and work so much better than wood blocks. You can insulate parts (away from that massive heat sink) on the card and then use a magnet to provide a bridge of conductivity back to the plate. It means that a lower setting can be used. Best used with solder cream - I now use that for most work - you require so little that cleaning up afterwards is so much easier. Getting into the habit of turning off before removing the tip is a bit of a challenge, also you have to try to think of the shaft of the iron as being surrounded by white metal - touch any part on the work piece other than the carbon tip and sparks will fly ! Too high a setting and you are into arc welding - mine will happily knock a hole straight through brass sheet.

just arrived back on topic - but had to comment The price here does include motor and wheels, it is also actually is quite a rare kit to find these days as Horsetan commented it is old and comes from a relatively good stable. Though compared to the IMO better Constructeon kit it is dated and less accurate and of course compared to buying off-the-shelf RTR (but can you make such a comparison?) Some how I missed this one with my standard search terms or I would have been bidding - but not quite as high as to win it at that price - so no loss.

while searching for details today I came across this which I thought appropriate to this list sorry only a link - not my photo.

if only it was easy to come across the back issues ! Thanks for the list though.

Thanks, I hadn't realised that SD went up so dramatically over 2Kg - I shall have to merit more praise on those who offer P&P on these kits for less. I have seen similar kits 7mm DJH for the typical £5 P&P - they must get a big shock when they turn up at the counter.

At what point does postage deserve to be reported to eBay £21.65 I'd expect it gift wrapped and hand delivered. Obviously trying to over-cook the prixe and avoid fees.

"Well Alf since you dislocated your arm down t'pit you have put on a little weight" ... just one of the many reasons I do not like little people on my layouts. "Well little guy, if you question my authority again you'll be out of here so fast your feet won't touch the ground." Finished bar the painting (and we all know how soon that will happen - if ever) - as usual click on photo for complete story

no offense intended Thanks for the explanation - I had wondered why ... as I mutter to myself trying to fit it on.

A little more progress this evening finishes the floor and side frames I have to keep reminding myself of the actual size of this thing is tiny and the tip on my 25W is hot. should be able to add the rest of the detail tomorrow. I am a bit worried about the 'rmless driver as supplied - it just looks a little too big - but I guess without him it will look very odd running around the layout.

I think I would have also given the whole lot (perhaps not the wood!) in a dilute acid. But then a thoroughwash may have been enough. I have forgotten of much of my chemistry but doesn't caustic soda react with the white metal forming some sort of salt on the surface? If not fully removed it might cause some later paint reaction? Wood with what appears to be bottle caps and a nail ! Whatever next? Oh and these CORDONS had pillar brakes.

There was an excellent article on the CORDONS in IIRC one of the GWR mags (if they were not all packed away from the decorating I'd go and check) I also think they were predominantly black. Though they do come in different varieties Diag DD4-DD5. The SEF kit is quite good though not sure if the Wills one predates it. Glue! what a mess The SEF kit uses brass tubes for the tanks and the rest is white metal. I'd get rid of the plastic wheels for a start - if they survive the caustic dip.

... and today I finally have ... Trimmed the wires back and soldered them on to those pickups (very quickly) looks a bit of a mess but it does seem to work on track - given a little encouragement. No doubt it will be better once there is some weight on top. It will need some insulation against shorting on the floor. on with cleaning up those castings

I was thinking of even more - though I'm having enough problems getting motivated on this one (too many distractions The Ruston, a Simplex, a Planet, and others - not to mention a few others in the larger scales and gauges) The potential for using this chassis is considerable - it is just the price per unit and the consciousness of having to destroy a perfectly good model just to get at them that disturbs.

We have had the same discussion on another thread regarding another supplier. It also revolved around the failure of the supplier to engage with the internet to the same level as internet savvy customers and their standards of communicative expectation. .. and yet another on the MRJ thread regarding them not using the internet. ... and probably plenty of others too. The fact is that many of these suppliers are old, set in their ways, and have very limited time or capital to invest in what is in reality a hobby not a true business. We here are all internet regulars - we interact using a forum and probably buy nearly everything on-line, paying bills and goodness knows what else. But there are still many people out there (possibly more elderly than young - though I know a few youngsters) who do not use the internet or ever want to. That is their choice. We cannot force the way we do things on them or they simply turn their backs on us, and rightly so. If you don't like the way someone does business then live with it or find an alternative - but please stop using RMWeb to sound off negatively about them (in general), because some of us who are quite content with the way a supplier chooses to do business, do not want to see a perfectly good supplier loose business or think it is not worth their trouble in supplying our hobby needs. Or one day we will wake up and find there is nothing left but the Gaugemasters and Hornbys and Hattons of this hobby.

I'm afraid so. No seller can guarantee a delivery time or day unless they are using a courier ... and even then ... Even amazon don't seem to be able to do it. We all do it though we sign up for next-day, or we get so involved with this new instant gratification of the internet and expect the world to revolve around us in the same way. I include myself in that - I placed an order at the beginning of last week from a well-known model railway supplier I have done quite of business with. I placed an order by email (no shopping cart for them) In the past they normally respond within 24 hrs, by email or telephone, to say the order has been processed/ in the post. No reply, and I was starting to have a panic, did my email order arrive, is there a problem, But I told myself not to be so impatient. If I had sent the order by post, I'd still be no wiser and still be waiting. The order arrived in full yesterday. Perhaps it is just my age, and the fact I have worked with many small businesses and have had the pleasure of being one myself, but I know the way things used to work was just fine and still do work that way. Customer expectations are often totally unrealistic.

Same old reasons, it is a small company that dedicates what time it has available to sending out its product and possibly answering real queries. Another impatient email is only going to annoy the seller, and use valuable time, especially when the item is in the postal system. Most small traders just don't have the resources or the profit and turnover to dedicate someone to customer service. In the past buyers were more patient and didn't expect things to happen over night. Amazon has a lot to answe for for raising unrealistic expectations.