RedgateModels

They are different, but once it's all painted black I think they will be okay - looking at the prototype pics (well a Brit anyway!) the cab handrail knobs are VERY short, quite unlike the boiler side ones in any case B)

Nice spot there sir, a bargain at a fiver on my next Eileen's order

Been thinking over the weekend, and I might just park the chassis for now and switch to the bodyshell. Getting a bit stale and a spot of plasticard modelling to get the cab detail up to scratch might just do the trick, otherwise there's always the Comet detailing pack for the body - all those lovely pipes and superglued fingers

This is the pic pinkmouse was referring to

Next thing he'll be expecting it to work

I will be adding the part of the lifting arm that connects to the screw though

it's supposed to be part of the lifting arm as you can see, but there's a definite edge that will allow me to add a shard of scrap etch to represent it as it disappears under the running plate

WOW

 

Chap, she's beautiful.

ta, will you be making the trip to chez Gareth?

Certainly driven me that way over the last few days

I'll make some edits ......

Just been looking at the Bachmann WD austerity, my new union link looks about the same length. There's a precident for everything

Motion bracket/weighshaft now back 2mm, looking better but need to rivet the accentric rod to the expansion link for a proper test. Hopefully I can now move onto the front half of the motion - where's that 0.9mm wire ......

So after this experience the Crosti 5 is looking less likely? You know you enjoy a challenge! So is it the kitchen or the Mikado 1st?

You've met Andrea Steve, what do you think?

Can't see me doing a Crosti 5 anytime soon, but you never know ...

wait 'till I start making the seperate valve spindle to act off the combination lever...

I know I said I'd not bother, but hey, why not, it's just a bit of flattened 0.9mm brass wire with a hole in

Nice work with the forked end/lifting arrangement, but if you don't mind me saying so, the valve rod looks a bit too long. The front boss should align with the middle of the valve cross-head slides. If it doesn't, then the relationship with the combination lever and anchor link to the cross-head will be wrong.

 

Regards,

 

Dave.

true, that's on the list, but will involve some complicated laminating to shorten the rod. Took a lot of checking to determine that the rod itself is too long. I am going to do the accentric rod first though just tome make sure ......

he's made a lovely job of those Ian; I can see why you took that approach.

I knew this was the way to go when I read his "Clandemonium" thread on RMweb3 ....

It's going to be a shame in a way to paint it black. At least I'll have loads of photos of it before the primer goes on to show just how much has been added/changed B)

Looking terrific chap

Wait 'till it gets back from de Selby with it's new flush sides to the running plate complete with rivet detail B)

No chance of the 2-8-2 being able to run under it's own power and I refuse to be deadlined at all on this build

Just PM'd PMP though on that DJH class 3 body kit he had .......Drop on the Comet class 4 chassis I have and then buy a Bachmann 76079

I can bring the 2-8-0 and me class 2 tank though as well as the 2-8-2 in whatever state it's in by then

So you got a 77xxx Steve?

It looks like this now

cut-outs are for the lubricators, Comet whitemetal jobbies. The running plate will be made good with 10 thou pb sheet then smoothed over.

Boiler join looks good, I've just given it a quick tickle with some 1000 grit wet or dry so far. Ejector was gone before you posted Dave

I finished the assembly of the cylinders last night, looking good.

what's this an MMRG recruitment drive, does Mike need money for something?

Stripped it of paint at lunch, now scraping off all that moulded detail.....

There's not going to be a lot left of this bodyshell by the time I've cut 2mm out of the smokebox, removed all moulded handrails, fittings, pipes etc to be replaced by Comet parts and new running plate sides added

No apology needed Dave, I'm just glad it's spotted now BEFORE the body goes away to De Selby for flush footplate sides to be fitted

You know I might even be able to make a single initial cut through the body as the offset of the lubricator position looks like being equal to the width of the material to be removed ....

Check, check, cut, swear ....

Never mind the chip Steve, I bet it's not even got pickups by July

Beat me to it, I've checked tonight and the last minute changes to the front of the frames caused it. I've shifted the whole lot 2mm back and it looks much better. Good news is that the cylinders are in the right place now, did'nt get round to checking that before.

I've added some plasticard packing at the front to make up the gap!

I'll add an entry tomorrow with photos. Good spot there, it would have been very messy later on to fix this

The Hornby Brit smokebox is too long (but not by much) for the 2-8-2 which might have thrown me also ....

The rear driver to firebox/ashpan gap is much greater than that of a Britannia on the original Cox drawing although it's not as great as that achieved with the Hornby body here I think that the Hornby firebox/ashpan does not lip forward as much as shown in the cox drawing. I'll have another look tonight though, it will mean messing with the front of the frames, but I might be able to throw the whole chassis backwards a bit

Hornby body seems to match up OK to the Cox drawing, certainly on length etc.

Having said that, once it's all painted black and there's a few pipes etc in that area it won't be so noticable.

EDIT: just had a quick play with overlaying the cox drawing on the photo and it clearly shows that there is some serious distortion on the pic that makes the gap seem larger than it really is as well. It was taken on my 80 quid cameraphone I have all my preliminary sketches for the frames including the trace of the Hornby chassis. My concern at the moment is that there was a last minute change to the design at the front of the chassis which may have thrown the whole lot forward If so, it's not the end of the world, it can all be sorted.

might hack out a slot in the boiler lower and fit the body for you tonight although I've just noticed I've not put the front bogie fixing spacer in place, so I've got to build up the front bogie

Actually the main reason for the DE38 is to get the motor clear of the chassis. Because I am using PCB material for the frames the gap between them is only just over 8.5mm. The can of the Sagami is 15mm diameter! The frames practically touch the boiler at a point directly above the rear drivers in any case, so the gearbox is not going to be that visible once painted black.

If I adopted the usual practice of angling the motor and gearbox so that the can pointed upwards would bring the gearbox into conflict with the rear pony pivot and I'd still need to cut away some of the frame. The DE38 was a no brainer.

The motor will drive off the rear axle with the motor almost horizontal, angled just enough to clear the bottom of the boiler lower. Firebox clear for Loksound 3.5 and speaker. Most of the boiler/smokebox free for lead

They don't need to be consistent, more match the wheels! When I drilled the chassis halves for the axle bearing holes I pilot drilled right through into a bit of MDF 2mm. I have PVA glued 4 of the crankpins into these holes to make a jig for rod assembly. The rods will be built up on the jig in the correct order hopefully ensuring that they will match the wheel spacing.

Note blue arrow on the MDF jig showing which end is "forwards".