carl1967

Hi all I have been fitting the lighting today. I have also removed all the copydex from the windows and fitted the rads The Head code LEDs are 3mm warm white, but they are to bright, this will be sorted out when the box fronts go on. Let me know what you think. Carl

thanks it is very smooth and i can not wait to get it in the body.

Hi all And now for something different! I have done the roof fan with adding something to it. Let me know what you think Carl

Hi mark Lighting! Here are step by step pictures of how I do my lighting. I did have a dud LED, it was fine after I replaced it.

hi all matt clear is done, and i have removed the copydex of one window to show how it looks. i will do the rest when its fully dry.

hi all most of the weathering is done. just needs a coat of matt clear now. then the lighting.

hi all Decals all done Started on the weathering. Just some matt black for now, to highlight some detail. Just paint it on and wipe off before it dries, leaving paint in the detail and making streaks, always wipe down from top to bottom. You cannot see it to well in the pictures of the full body so i took some up close.

Thanks Guy only glad i can help

Hi Bernard that picture is just for reference, the numbers i have used on the model are the right ones, that picture of the real 37081 was taken just after she had been restored back in her LL colours. They had used the wrong typeface. This is how she looked in service, http://www.flickr.com/photos/buckielugger/3709849254/sizes/l/in/photostream/ But as my layout is all modern, i have done her like the restored picture but with the right typeface numbers. http://www.flickr.com/photos/dwbphotos/4153131915/sizes/l/in/photostream/ i am going to try and model the placard on her in that picture, "west highland tours"

Hi all as this sides decals were drying, I decided to remove the Lima coupling and replace it with a Bachmann one. This is the 1st time i have done this, i think next time i will shorten it as well.

Hi all Decals. Decals the Micro sol way!! Micro sol is not paint, it’s the same consistency as water. Apply micro sol to the decal area and slide decal off the paper on top, apply more micro sol on top of the decal, position the decal with a fine brush, remove excess with a brush but not touching the decal, then just leave to dry. The decal will wrinkle around the edge but that’s fine, do not attempt to press it down, trust me this will be bad!!, as it dries they will disappear on there own, I have added pics of this, before and after. Ask me anything and i will answer. Carl

You are spot on with the decal stage. Plus! Its far easier to do all the weathering on gloss, it can be manipulated and rubbed off and shaped/ added/ removed in just a way that you can get it to look so real. As for putting paint under decals, there really is no need if you gloss the body, plus your decal will not be flat. I use "Micro Sol" when i do any decaling, it softens them so they contour to the shape and makes them sink in to any panel lines or around and raised area. I used to apply decals with just water and press them down with tishoo. With Micro sol, you paint the area with Micro sol, slide the decal off on top and then paint Micro sol on top of the decal, position the decal with the same brush and remove excess with tishoo but not touching the decal, and leave it to dry, as it dries the decal will conform down to the exact shape its on all by its self. it also acts like better glue and stick them solid to the body. When dry simply lightly wash excess off with a damp cloth.

Hi mark I am glad you asked But!! All will be revealed in the next thrilling instalment on the body. Ps, I purposely did not add anything else to that post just to see if I had a response. Till the next time Carl

I cannot do anything on the body now until its dry tomorrow. So i made number 2 ends head code box fronts, as they are not going to have lighting in them i have used white 10thou card for the main and .5 for the lens holder. Next i will be making number 1 ends head code box fronts, as they are getting LEDs in them, i will be making them in the same way but with clear .5thou for the lens holder. But this will be painted black on the inside before its glued on the main, leaving the centre clear for the light to shine out. You will see in pictures as i do it. I also painted the rads.

hi all the next step is to give the body a coat of gloss varnish

hi james i guess i am very backward then :yes: i will always use enamels and now for some humbrol 33 mat black spraying!!!!! i have masked and painted the windows and nose roof. the windows were masked in the same way as the rest, but with 1.5mm srips cut the same as before, as seen in 1st pic, then i used a sharp knife to trim to make a corner, see pic 2 of the same point. thanks for looking.

Hi all painting the roof masked using the same 3mm strip method. the black and white method can be seen in the blue and yellow in the pictures here, the roof is hard to see as its still wet in the pics. After the gray had gone on, I added weathering as it was masked up, and the gray was still not dry. It always looks better this way, do not ask me why, it just looks like its stained and not just on top of the gray. Thanks for looking Carl

hi mark i have tried acrylics and i think they are CRAP!!! but some love them, but not me, i have used humbrol for 30 years and can do anything with it. i also like Phoenix Precision paint, it's also enamel. i will always use enamels, you can not beat them.

hi all i have been detailing the buffer beam and finnishing off the chassis as i can not do anything to the body until tomorrow.

i must say that 37097 is in a very fadded state. before anyone says my blue on my body looks rong. i am doing 37081 in near new paint like this picture.

i use Humbrol 221 Garter Blue with a dab of 33 to darken it, or with 34 to look fadded, its the nearest i can get to the real colour. i took some up to match on 37097

thanks for the comment m8 here is the blue going on

hi all Masking! i use 2" masking tape honest, i do!!! get anything with a smooth surface and stick a stip of 2" tape lightly on it, cut this with a sharp knife and metal rule in to 3mm strips. 3mm stips are easy to handle. never use the tapes outer edge, its never flat or smooth