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carl1967

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Everything posted by carl1967

  1. thanks m8 car ferries are just for fun back to the task i have the chassis back in one piece, just need to do the buffer beam detail, the buffer beam on this loco is red, 37081 is the loco i am doing.
  2. painting. i have done the yellow cab ends. i have also weatherd the chassis, 1st cote, its not finnished but i am adding them to show detail that was done. the coluors used are 33 and 186 this give this result. thanks for looking and any coments are welcome carl
  3. Hi mark I do suggest you practise this technique on a scrap body until your happy, to be honest, the paint on a loco is far thicker than an aircraft so it not going to show up the same, it’s a very subtle contrast in colour in the end result. thanks Neil
  4. Hi all The cab roof detail was done with the help of shawplan The shawplan 37 roof fan is just the job, after removing the fan parts, the hole that the fan centres came out of are spot on for the rear cab roof vent. All you need is this and a sharp scriber, then some scrap 10thou plastic card. Place the fan holder on the plastic card and scribe on the inside of the fan hub hole until you scribe through, that’s the vent base cut out, then get a second piece of 10thou card, using the hole you just cut in the first, turn this first piece upside down and hold it on the second and scribe the same as you did on the first until you cut out the top of the vent. The top will be 0.5mm smaller due to you turning the first upside down, this is because the scribers point is tapered. Then using some 800s sand the edges smooth, sand the tops edges until its 0.7mm smaller than the base, then glue the top on to the base, then glue it on the cab roof. The forward roof vent is just a 20thou 2mm square, then cut 2, 43degrees off from each side starting from 1mm from the back so it leaves 0.4mm to the front point, at this point, glue this on the cab roof, then taper the top front down with a file. Thanks Carl
  5. Hi m8 Thanks for comments I understand what your saying about the chassis. But its just my way. I will use white for the next to show what’s been done, but I will be weathering the chassis so the detail will show up. I will post pictures of how the cab roof detail was done later. Back to the task. Painting. I am going to do this using the black and white method I use for doing my scale aircraft. 1st Give the primer a light sand with 1200s. 2nd Lightly airbrush black on grills and round the edge of panels, ie the roof. 3rd Lightly airbrush white on the centre of panels and concentrate on top surfaces. Doing this make the final colour lighter or darker, the white give the impression of the top colour having faded in the sun. You will need to have a air regulator on the compressor your using, it needs to allow your airbrush to spray at 10 to 15 psi. Plus you need to have the paint thin, and set the airbrush up to only spray a very thin line. Take your time, do not allow the paint to go on to wet, and is best to leave to dry and keep going over it to build up the paint. That’s it for now, I will leave the black and white to dry for 24h before I take it to the next step. Thanks Carl
  6. hi all i have been detailing the chassis, i still have lots of detail to add, but here is work so far. i have used black plastic card, i find it better for chassis, if paint chips, no white shows.
  7. hi mark i will be showing it step by step, as for masking, this livery is one of the easy one's to mask. can you tell me what colour you started with? carl
  8. That would be telling... its going to be 37081 in Large logo. http://www.flickr.com/photos/buckielugger/3709849254/sizes/l/in/photostream/ :yahoo:
  9. and now for some primer thats it for now. thanks carl
  10. preping for paint, i use copydex to mask the glass, its rubber based and will not stick, but very easy to apply and just peels off.
  11. finnishing the body detailing before paint. and preping for lighting.
  12. hi all nose handrail tool made from plastic card, first cut a 5mm strip, gule this 0.5mm from the edge and top of plastic card, cut another 5mm strip, gule this next to the first but leaving 20thou gap for the wire to fit, then glue plastic card on top the same as the first. the handrails are 6mm long after they are bent, 6mm is the right size for them. thanks carl
  13. no trains, sod that it had 22inch in its LL days.
  14. i have been adding some detail to 1 cab end.
  15. hi They are inset from the outer edge, i am not going to replace them but i am going to modifie them to make them look right. The boxes on the 1st loco are from Craftsman. heres a link, http://www.howesmodels.co.uk/Railways/viewProduct.php?ProdID=337 i hope to see progress pictures of 114 as you do her.
  16. hi all i havd done the roof detail just the cab ends to do, i will be adding LED lighting, i am removing no 1 ends coupling so its only ever going to go in this direction, so i am only putting lighting for going that way, soft white marker and high beam on no 1 end and red on no 2. i will show step by step on how i do that.
  17. i will be when i have the body finnished, i need to go and take lots of detailed pictures of 37097 underframe and tanks, can not find any good detailed pics online.
  18. not far of painting now roof detail next and then cab ends and buffer beam
  19. hi all anybody got any good detail pictures of 37081 in large logo?
  20. go for it m8 i have been finnishing off the bottom edge of the body and some detail on the chassis needed removing and adding back on 1mm lower. i have painted on some matt to fill the fine scratches.
  21. it was cheep and easy to mod to fit, plus if i was going to buy the vitrains chassis convertion, i may as well just buy there full loco for not much more, but then i would not need to do this, but i like doing this!!!
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