Penlan

The Combi delivers < 12V. The bespoke controllers I have from some 40+ years ago are delivering < 16V, both types from a 18VAC supply. Having had a couple of problems, though unrelated to the electronics, with my own controllers and the person I'm doing the control panel for has requested Combi's + the Ammeters, I thought I would try the Combi's, especially as I now have 5 at an average cost of £15 each. That loss of < 4V between my old controllers and the Combi's means my loco's have a reduced top speed, in fact I might almost have to reduce the gear ratio's to get a decent speed from the loco's. Swings and roundabouts comes to mind. I'm putting my Combi electronics into my own boxes (hand held controllers) and they plug, via looooong walk-a-bout leads, into boxes with the Ammeter, plus a visible 12V, 21W car brake light bulb (BAY9S) in circuit to protect (a bit) against shortages. I'm aware there's a cut-out in the Combi circuit, but old fashioned Belt & Braces, and yes, somewhere at home I do have one of those controllers with brass studs and bits of resistance wire between each stud etc., Oh the joys of old style '0' gauge . Meanwhile, I'm getting there, both for the friend and myself. I must say I'm very grateful for all the guidance I've received on this posting, thank you.

2 Ammeters arrived today from China?, both ordered as centre zero up to 1 amp either way. One as above t'other sweep zero to 1 amp only... I've been offered a £2 refund? Looking on Ebay, this supplier seemed to be the only one for these ammeters, all under different names, but John Sun's is the final address for all of them.

Thankyou Kevinlms

Not really relevant, but I wonder why Combi's have a RED LED to show that the power is being delivered to the track. The LED gets brighter the more voltage going through. 'Red' to me is 'danger', a short or similar, I find these LED's distracting. On my own hand held bespoke walk-a-bout controllers, I have a small green LED to show there's power to it - it doesn't vary, it source is straight from the input voltage (circa 15v DC).

Porcy Mane, Thank you. I have an old Scalespeed controller in a separate box I use for test purposes, and on the face there's a also couple of (small) sockets for a Multimeter to plug into with a switch for either Volts or Ammeter testing. Had that a few years (40+ ?) now.

Porcy Mane, many thanks, that looks the way to go for a de-constructed Combi. I shall also buy in a couple of centre zero's mentioned by kitpw, they look useful for this particular project. . Many thanks to you all for your help and observations, much appreciated.

AC, the rectifier is tucked away between a heat sink and the 'main' board.

I have been asked to build a couple of control panels incorporating cables to 'Combi' hand held controllers, and to include on the panels an ammeter for each controller, so the said person can see if the loco's etc., are drawing a sensible electric load, and are 'live' in section. The accepted practice would be to put the ammeter in circuit before the change over switch, but obviously the circuitry is all self contained (and difficult to get at) in the Combi hand held controller, even when I've 'de-constructed' them? I see you can get ammeters with a + / - reading (centre zero), though they all seem to come from China with a long delivery period and are a deep depth into the panel, unlike some UK ones I've had in the past. Would the + / - ones give me what I'm looking for after the direction switch? Or is there a 'cunning plan' to install an ordinary 0 - 1amp (etc.,) after the direction switch.

I still have my guide from 1959. (Dated, 1957 edition) The four adverts at the back are for W&H Models, K's, CCW and Douglas Models (Halifax). 1s 3d, a lot of money in those days, uhmn, Pint of Mild was about a shilling, Rough Cider was 9p, in 1959 - memories of a misspent youth .

SWAGfest ?

I've just had a look and it's Humbrol 24 on the 'old' tin (about 30 years old and still useable). I see I have two tins of 27, both a darkish Grey, but definitely different Greys. Ones relatively new - English origin and gooy, the others about 25 years old and in good condition. So, my apologies on that. Sometimes I have a numeracy block, which considering I use to be good at Maths, is a bit of a bind.

I also cut some grooves in the lead with a sharp point to form a better key for the Araldite (Other brands......). I have some wagons where the lead has been there 40+ years.

Worcester Shrub Hill was a Joint Mid. GWR station, as staff vacancies became available they appointed them alternatively to each Company. I don't seem to have saved the date of the 1:500 series map, but I would have thought pre 1920. It was tucked away in some old cabinets in the City Engineers Office when I started there in 1972.

As you've mentioned Mid Rly Engine Sheds..... I presume there's a copy of the track plan for Worcester Mid Rly Engine Shed at Worcester, This is what I copied off a 1:500 O.S. plan some 50+ years ago. Just adding an idea to the mix.

Very good lining. Because I seem to acquire all sorts of odd's and end's, I have numerous singular coach sides in THE box, and I sort of get myself into the mood for lining by doing some practice runs first, if nothing else it helps to become familiar with the 'flow' of the paint and/or the bow pen that day. I have an Electrical theory book from my HNC days (some 50+ years ago) that is just the right height to support my hand for 4mm coach sides, but you can hardly see the title for all the 'practice' runs from bow pens on it

Absolutely agree, the Scottish lineouts were embarrassing. They may be a bit rusty from a month off from playing together, but.......

I know the adverts on TV tend to target the viewing audience, but 'Erectile Dysfunction' during 6 Nations?

They must have had a double helping of porridge to be able to carry those slabs, taking into account Compound2632's calc's. Thankyou Bill, great photo.

All4 - Can't register, even when I try their emailed instruction. Is it just me?

My Lighting supply box has an small extractor fan fitted at one end and vents at the other end to keep it all cool.

I have a dedicated box on the floor just for lighting power. completely remote from the Layouts power box on the floor too.

The only image I can find of my Pelmet is this one at York and I think that's 'Beattock' behind. Oh and another at Railex.... The extra brightness in the centre of 21 ft length is from another inverted 'U' box, a foldable 3' 6" + 3' 6" trough that clipped onto the two supports (spaced 7' apart) that lit the rear part of the layout, which also meant we - the operators - could see the stock to some advantage too. As to weight, heavy 'ish. Re. Dimming LED's, my understanding there are now LED's that can be dimmed. Oh, and yes, that's obviously a 1st Class toilet...... though missing the bucket for the soiled paper.

If the illuminated detailed coach interiors are anything like the trains I travelled on in Chine some 25+ years ago, then that will be interesting. I was managing Civil Engineering contracts, etc., Think basic toilet - no door, kettle on a heater/stove for tea etc., Nothing to do with the topic, but I was always amazed as we came in to land at Nanjing Airport to see people cycling along on the (edge ?) runway.

TEAMYAKIMA - Quote "Basically, I don't particularly want layout lighting," I would suggest that lighting is essential if you are intending to exhibit the layout. At least then you have some control over how it's seen for colours etc., Some Venues are ill lit, others have (or did have) Sodium lighting. Sports halls have subdued lighting suitable for sports, not suitable for exhibiting layouts. But Rule 1 - It's your layout, so do what you feel comfortable with.

TEAMYAKIMA, in your second sketch, I also added a drop down piece of ply behind the strip, so the lights don't 'blind' the operators - 7 - 8 hours behind a layout is a long time to be staring at lights. Thus the tubes etc., are in a inverted U shaped pelmet. On Ynysbwl (Not my layout, but I've copied the idea on my revised Penlan layout) they use inverted guttering, suspended on a light metal square tube framework. Typical product is B&Q's https://www.diy.com/departments/floplast-white-square-gutter-length-l-3m-dia-114mm/90044_BQ.prd On Penlan originally I had thin ply on a 1.5" x 1" softwood framework, length 21' with support at either end and 2 support frames (as you envisage) at 1/3 distances (7'). The pelmet was in 3 lengths, 8.5' + 4' + 8.5'. At the time - early 1990's we used flourescent tube lighting, with all the ballast bits etc., in a insulated / vented container on the floor, copied from a layout seen at York Show one year (Beattock?)