Giles

There should be more Flanders and Swann on here - and in the world...... things would be better for it!

Transfers definitely after polishing, as you've then got a very good surface for them to sit on.... The water soluble oils I use are the tubes from Winsor & Newton, and apart from the lamp black, I use raw umber for the brownish tinge. It's a brush on to the line of rivets and wipe off vertically technique...... I tend to use them in very small quantities neat, rather than diluting them - but have a play!

Here's a very small 0-14 Wrenn. Exactly tye same principle, with some water-soluble oil weathering

Fully complete and working, aside from a bit more paint on the dumb buffers. It has a 700mAh battery, so I'm hoping it should last most of a day.

In the past couple of weeks I've been making a little self-propelled steam crane in EM - just for the fun of it. I had done a drawing of a proposal in my book, and thought I ought to come good! It's very nearly finished, mostly wired up - just the travel on the truck to sort - I need to programme the receiver outputs in the morning. The rest of it works fine.

Lovely! I do like that rising tailgate on the Thornycroft!

Good to know....!

An 0-14 radio controlled loco

I'm pretty sure it's VW GAMBIA RED, sprayed over black as an undercoat. Best, Giles

Interesting.... no.... please let us know if you have any answers. Do you transmit on 10mW or 30mW setting? Have you always used these transmitters?

Sorry - your right ... it is the 600 x 600 that I have too! Brain fog!

I have 305 x 305 dimmable LED panels in a couple of rooms of a type intended for office and they're excellent. I chose 5000k temperature as being the most suitable Colour and have had absolutely no regrets. 6000k is a bit cold, and 3000k is far too warm for model work. Of course all domestic type LEDs are a bit narrow on the colour band, and would benefit from additional colours.

I've tried this.... you certainly get the white gunge and plenty of it - however after 'cleaning', the IPA as a liquid is still sticky, and in my limited experience, not as pure as new stuff.... But try it, you may get on with it.... I nowadays leave the IPA in a clear container in the sunlight and let it settle out, and decant the top part out for re-use.

I think it inadvisable to write about the practicalities of 3D printing unless you have some experience of printing first hand, with its successes and failures. It is capable of achieving the most remarkable things Or some unphotographable blobs because of poor settings, orientation or because you didn't say the magic words.... I have printed many things with gaps such as cab doorways etc., and never given them a second thought - just making sure the orientation suits and things are properly supported. I usually use automatic supports, and then spend 15 minutes adding to them and adjusting their positions etc....... rarely if ever using them straight out of the packet.

..... I don't recall any of this from The Art of Coarse Sailing?.......

I recently converted a pair of old Dinky front loaders - one for someone else, ans the second for me! They have 1100mAh batteries in, and Deltang Rx43 Receivers, and steefingis by motor/linear actuator, not by servo.

It looks nicely designed.....! I have found that my go-to 6mm 100rpm gearmotors have completely disappeared from everywhere, and there are many fewer of the remaining ratios available as well. Its certaiworth stocking up if you haven't already!

For buildings I use 2mm mdf (laser quality) https://hobarts.com/products/2mm-laser-grade-mdf?variant=40677185945784 All the above stuff I've had before will cut with a diode laser. The 1mm MDF from other sources won't cut with diode, only CO2 lasers.

If you're fabricating the cylinders, I should consider adding a tab to the internal end of the piston rod, and slotting the guide tube (if you are having one) to prevent the piston rod and crosshead from rotating.

The Ixo/Altaya Bedford TK artics are first class. I have a couple of them, including this 'chopped' one, which was severed at the fuel tank, and a new, longer chassis fitted to give a 10ft wheelbase, and a working tipper body fitted.

Thanks! Car aerosol, but rubbed down with 2000 grit wet and dry, and a teeny polish before weathering.... it takes the 'toy' finish off.....

Harrogate Gaswork's Peckett

And in the same spirit..... Jubilee 1897 awaits the completion/building of a proper home to run on. I've built seven or eight locos with low voltage motors and lipo batteries that are radio controlled, which is the intent for the layout. Obviously they can run anywhere else as well, having insulated wheels. A kit for the body, and scratch-built chassis. And this little Hunslet I didn't actually build. I bought it on Ebay, but it turned out the chassis was not good and didn't run, so I scrapped that and built a new one to 14mm gauge, and she became radio controlled at the same time. Both of these locos should run a full day at exhibition.

Unusual. I've fitted that decoder into my two, with no problem (apart from fitting the first one upside-down first time round. I used a short address 01, using a Gaugemaster Prodegy