jamest

Hi all, I'm after a bit of advice on the positioning of my yard crane.. I'm unsure whether the best postion is on the loading platform, or at ground level... On the platform (I favour this one): On the floor serving the other siding - the provinder store could well be closer with the coal on the other side at the buffer stop. Or in this postion on the platform - but I feel this surface is better served as a place trailers can back up against for loading - which would put the crane in the way? Any suggestions greatfully received! Regards, James

Hi all, Here are the pictures from the re-paint to western region colours.... I've also added more ground cover to the yard area - I purchased some fine stone at Trainwest and instead of laying and flooding with diluted pva 'a la ballasting' I applied pva neat to the surface and sieved the fine stone over the top. I'm really pleased with the results. It is probably 'overscale' on the surface roughness but gives the colour mix and texture I like about other peoples layouts on here. The gound cover greenery is also taking shape and I have added the peco fencing behind the loading platform. I've also shamelessly plonked planted a Bachmann loading gauge! I want to weather the ballast and siding a little - but I am worried/wary as I always seem to go too far and make it too dirty - but it looks a little clean at the moment. Thats all for now. Regards, James

Hi Marc, When you say "remove some of the loose ballast" and start ballasting proper..... Do you have some ballast in and around the track when you are spraying? Apologies if I've missed something you've already explained. Regards, James

Hi, Yes reading around I think a re-paint is in order - I picked up some options at the weekend and will be testing them to see which I like best for the chocolate colour. I have downloaded the scalescenes Western region station signs and posters, etc too. Regards, James

Thanks Chaps, I have other Heljan hymeks and I noted their wheel arrangement - there is a small 'boss' diameter on one side as the axle enters the wheel. As others have said it might not be a problem, but I have re-arranged them as per the factory examples anyway. I've not been brave enough to try another chip again yet - but I will watch out for the chip/blanking plate socket. If I'm honest I could well have pushed down on the socket while I was hacking away at the underside! That would explain it working ok before my intervention. I did notice that the blanking plate and chip where relatively loose fits in the loco socket anyway. I might return it to my local shop (where I got it) explaining all this as he is very good with second hand stuff - and he was not sure how 'good' the loco was when selling it. thanks again. Regards, james

Hi all, Question regarding colour scheme of my station buildings. I've gone for the older GWR dark and light stone colours but I've had a crisis of confidence on my choice. I would like to run some green diesels too - so should I have gone for chocolate colour trim as per the Western region? Or could the earlier colour scheme I have chosen survived into the 60s? I could apply rule 1, but I would like the concept to be realistic - if not strictly true (if you see what I mean). Regards, James

Hi, I think I have made a mistake in trying to improve the running of my second hand purchase. It was running ok and smooth...if a bit intermittent - so I thought a wheel clean and re-tweak of the pickups would help. I picked off the bottom cover and removed the wheels - being careful to keep the axles in the same place - but, possibly crucially, I did not insure that I did not turn the wheel set 180 degrees. So what was the left wheel of a set could now be on the right - if you see what I mean. After adjusting the pickups outwards (possibly a bit too much really) I re-assembled (not realising the possible error mentioned above) and tested on DC. It ran better, not perfect, but better. I had already tried it on DCC too before my bodging - and it was ok, but no better. But when I tried it on DCC after my work the chip started to smoke and died after only a few inches of travel! My question is - what potentially did I do wrong that could have induced such an error? Would swapping over the wheels left and right cause this? Regards, James

Hi all, Thanks for the comments - I have some updates, but no train shots I'm afraid. I've added a hedge and barn to the bufferstop end - it is teased out horsehair 'squares' sprayed brown and then coated in scatter: And I've also added some green to the base brown on the entry side: I plan to add a fence behind the loading platform stretching along to the hedge on the road. I will add bushes and other 'rough' groundcover lineside of the fence and have the forground as a field with some livestock. All the best, James

Hi Andy, You really do have an eye for laying out the track so it flows well - the trackplan is certainly not unique as I'm sure you'll agree - but the last picture in particular shows off the gentle curve and platform 'skew' in relation to the baseboard edge. A lesson for anyone new to planning such things - it can't be a coincidence that you have managed to create this on most of your layouts. All the best, James

Hi Marc, My vote would go for straightening the roof a little - if it is possible - I think the 'wave' is a little too pronounced at the moment. But if it is too difficult I would live with it! The scene really is coming together now - really like the white washed shed. All the best, James

Hi, With regard to your question on magnet location.... I would place one in every siding - otherwise you will need to reverse a long way back and return if you want to pickup one wagon and leave an attached second wagon in the siding (hope I've explained that well enough). My inglenook (Bratton Lane in the link in my sig) employed three magnets and it was worth the effort with regard to operation. All the best, James

Keep progressing like this and you'll get plenty of positive comments! Apologies if you've already said - but is that a marcway point? Regards, James

Hi Marc, Thanks for that I'll take a look along the Iain rice trail to see what I can find. I remember seeing the pictures of Ogmore road you posted elsewhere - I'll keep them bookmarked for future reference! And I will be following this with interest. Cheers, James

Hi Marc, Looking forward to seeing this develop as your work is right up my street. I know we should always look forward and not back but do you have anything else on Ogmore road? I've had a quick search and have only found a few more pics on line. I'm interested in the layout as I like the hidden entrance at one end and the off-scene run around at the other. Its similar to an idea for something I'd like to develop. Perhaps a simple track plan sketch? all the best, James

Looking good - will follow with interest. Can I assume that the platform line will terminate at this stop and not carry on (either in reality or practically)? I say that because you could either put in the 'buffers' or suggest that the line continues - even if it doesn't! I also love the rail bus and class 24 - right up my street. All the best, James

Hi, Thanks for the link, I will follow with interest. All the best, James

Hi, Been watching your progress for a while...I really like this concept. So much so I'm tempted to do a version of my own. Thanks for sharing, I will follow with interest. All the best, James

Hi all, Apologies for the lack of updates. I've covered the plaster with some paint and brown scatter. I have also been labouring over the ground colour/texture in the yard. I tried wood stove ash but it does not respond well to the pva flood method and if I scatter it onto pva it does not stick thick enough. I'm sure some have had success with it but I have opted for grey paint with talc spread on it when wet. The surface is still quite clean at the moment, as you will see, but it will be weathered and toned down later. I also decided to try be slightly more realistic in the yard line ballasting so I placed card on the yard to the top of sleeper height and then removed the ballast between the sleepers so I could try some DAS clay in there instead: Card up against the track and ballast removed: With the clay blended into the card surface: Half way through showing the card and the area to be covered in clay: And the end result painted and blended: Quite pleased with it - but it is too clean at the moment! Regards, James Regards, James

Hi, That looks like a solid start - I'm glad the layout provided some inspiration. If you start a new thread let me know - I'd like to follow your progress. All the best, James

Hi, I've long been an admirer of your work here along with everyone else. Can I ask a question about the ground surface in your post #3265 where Molly and Dolly are standing? The surface texture and colour look great and I was wondering how you create that? I have been experimenting with paint sprinkled with wood burner ash and talc, and I am getting close - but I'd like to hear how you get those results. I know a lot of the realism is in your use of colour too, but I am keen to get the surface texture looking right first. Regards, James

Hi, I agree that the cable looks most likely - even though my multimeter tests were saying otherwise. If there was a weakness in the small section I removed it might not have been occuring in the orientation I was testing. It is difficult to test all orientations of handset/wire. Another thought is that the wires were complete but the insulation was fauly and there was some combination of cross connection somewhere? I notice the curly wire meant for the LH90 (is that right?) is around £11 - and I would have to cut off the 'telephone' connector from one end and hardwire it to the LH100. That might be a fix for another day though - I want to familiarise myself with the operation of the handset to decide if I want to persevre with it, or another handset option. Cheers for now, James

Hi all, Great news....it lives! I re attached the wires to my new din plug and took a few inches off the cable that end. I then checked with the multimeter again. It was ok....as before. I then plugged it in the box and put a train on the track. Switched on....nothing on the handset display. I went to press cl to enter the address of the loco (as per the test suggested above).....and hey Presto the display appeared after pressing cl. I'm happy but a bit confused. I had tried this button before...along with several others! The main differences are loco on the track, and the new din plug minus a bit of wire. But the multimeter said the wires were good all along? I have turned it off and on again, and now it starts up fine, loco or no loco on track. Perhaps the handset was dormant in some way? All's well that ends well and all that! Cheers, James

Hi, No I haven't tried a loco yet. That's good advice, thanks. I need to solder on a new din plug and then I'll try that. If that fails I'll ring the shop mentioned above to see what they think about a possible repair. Thanks again everyone, James

I notice the LMAB on the circuit board does not match the colour to pin info I've seen on here. I swapped the wires to correspond with the circuit board markings, but still no good.

Hi, I have opened the unit and checked continuity between the din pins and the circuit board pads/other end of the wire. That would seem to rule out the plug and the wire and the connections on the lh100. I have cut the plug and directly connected to the box without the din and the handset is still showing no signs of life. I assume there does not need to be a train on the track for it to work?