3 link

Well I cannot believe how long it has taken me to correct the platform ramps, most of the day on and off although some of the time was waiting for the glue to set.

Not a lot to see at present, so here's a couple showing another platform on Church Norton, only this time it's down at the goods sidings.

ATB,

Martyn. PS, apologies for the c**p photos again.......

Hi Charles,

I have just "dug out" my model of the brake van and from memory I think the brackets were made of ABS which is a lot stronger than the normal moulded plastic so should be Ok.

Below is my van made around 15 yrs ago, crumbs where does the time go....

Martyn.

Hi Charles,

You will find 7mm a lot less " fiddly " than 4mm, and it's also quite enjoyable to make extra detail for the locos and rolling stock.

I moved up to 7mm from EM back in the late eighties and have never regretted the move.

Martyn.

Hi Charles,

Have you got any scrap brass or nickel silver etch left around?, although they might be a bit tedious to make the brackets would be nice and sturdy and not as " chunky " as the plastic versions, just a thought.

Martyn.

In the latest Gazette, CRT are advertising their latest release which are BR (S) Ex-Maunsell push/pull coaches for 2-car sets , " so tempted" ....

So it looks like he's been busy with every intention of carrying on, just needs to keep his customers informed of any delays.

Martyn.

Hi Guys,

Crumbs you were certainly right Dan, looking at the slope now the poor passengers would need to wear some hiking boots to ascend that gradient. It's funny how some errors that should be glaring obvious and are right in front of you eyes can still be missed, oh well onwards and upwards.....

ATB,

Martyn.

Evening Dan,

Thanks for the heads up, I will endeavour to put things right, and you must have read my mind as the GWR spear fencing is exactly what I have planned.

I have just noticed how grainy the photo looks, message to self, I must upgrade my phone !!

Martyn.

I think that once I put some weathering and greenery along the platform bottom edge it should bring it all to life a bit more, I'm impressed with the walling as it took less than and hour to put in place, just the top edge to finish it off and then the platform surface itself.

Martyn.

Nice to see a bit of progress me old mate

Cheers Steve,

I don't think I'll ever be able to keep up with your pace, you are to making layouts what Jazz ( Ken ) is to loco building.

ATB,

Martyn.

I have finally had a go at the platform sides, another job that I have been dreading being that the platforms are well over 6' long. This stone work will actually be the back face of the platform, for the front face I will use normal brick work. You will notice I have not taken the stonework right up to the top of the platform surface, I am going to try and use some DAS modelling clay for this job.

I have given the stonework a quick waft of a Cotswold stone colour using some Vallejo acrylic paint as a base colour, there is still much to do, but it's a start so hopefully the mojos returning fingers crossed.

Martyn.

Thanks for all the advice Guys, like you say I'll do a test piece first, better to be safe than sorry.

All the best,

Martyn.

Hi Guys,

As the title says above, I'm sure this question has been aired before but I cannot find it. I just want to be sure before I commit with the airbrush.

All the best,

Martyn.

I saw the photo before reading the words... I thought, "eh, what's 'e doin', it's t'wrong colour..."

I thought he'd seen the light...

I must admit I do like the green and cream, and having lived most of my life along the South Coast. But it's Gods Wonderful Railway for me...

ATB,

Martyn.

Not much to report on layout progress, but I have built this quaint little SR signal box for a good friend of mine. This signal box will eventually end up on his proposed layout.

Martyn.

Talking about certain 4mm parts being suitable for 7mm, have you seen the lovely platform gas lamps that Gaugemaster do. They even do the type with that spiral column, I think they call it a “ Barley twist “ ?

I measured some up at their shop in Ford to the amusement of their staff, only to see their faces go red once they realised I was correct.

Martyn.

Hi Simon,

Is porage like porridge but made to a secret Kentish recipe..... : )

ATB,

Martyn.

O.K. Quiz time.

 

3 guesses where I spent last night.

 

It involves little men in green suits,

a yellow box van,

Blue flashing Disco lights,

and a Waaa   weeeee wwaaaa.

 

Oh yes, and Derby Hospital is not nice on a Saturday night, an O/D next to me from a concoction of Tequila and Tremadol, and an old Lady opposite with a Broken Ankle and Fibia. 

 

Now home and resting again.

Andy.

Now we all know this 7mm stuff can be exciting, but you need to take things one step at a time. So take it easy and relax there's plenty of good reading material on the forum, so steady as you go.

All the best,

Martyn.

The dirtying of the bridge looks spot on Chaz. I 've got that copy of MRJ, bought it after I'd started my wagons, I'd like to try those techniques sometime. I'm sure they could be used in 4mm, I think the reason it's a bit harder is there is no relief and I'm trying to make a flat bit of plastic look like a plank of wood.

Steve.

Hi Steve,

The timber on this crossing was made with coffee stirrers from a well know coffee chain,

Martyn.

The tubing below is from Albion alloys ltd, and has a i/d of 0.8 mm and an o/d of 1.0 mm, and that is a piece of 0.7mm nickel silver rod inside of it.

And a bit of a cruel close up, this is showing what I intend to do at a baseboard joint, the tubing is just slid over the rod to keep the ends together.

Sorry for the hijack Jinty,

Martyn.

Thanks muchly. I can see a problem finding 0.7mm internal diameter square tube...

Please do not ask me to convert it from good old inches into metric, but I know they do some pretty small square section as I have seen them down at Squires model shop.

Martyn.

Hi Chris,

The 0.7mm round Rod I am using is 600mm long, being round I am using some thin brass tube that is an interference fit to join the two rods together and just flash some solder over the two ends.

Maybe you could use something similar, I tried plastic tube first but the o/d was to chunky and stood out like a sore thumb.

Martyn.

Ps, if my description above is hard to visualise I'll put a picture up.

I already have an agreement from the shed people on the price and that they will take all necessary steps to procure that the building comply with building regulations, so they would not be entitled to charge me more for taking a step to ensure that the building comply with the regulations.

 

If there are no non-price disadvantages, cement composite weatherboards do seem to be potentially a good solution.

I'm not on about whoever might charge you more, I meant it's expensive in the first place.

Is there any disadvantage to having the shed clad entirely in cement composite weatherboards as far as you know?

The only disadvantage is to your wallet : )

Martyn.

Hi Chris,

Thats a great idea with the cut down chairs, I would like to poach the idea if you don't mind. Funnily enough I've been racking my brains for a while as to what would give the best impression of those clamp/ bracket things, brilliant idea, ta.

Martyn.

Hi Chris & Martyn,

 

Here is the MSE Etch for the cranks.

I've added the cover as well for your ref'

 

 

WB 278.jpg

 

 

WB 279.jpg

 

 

 

Hope that helps

 

Jinty

Thanks Jinty,

It's good to know what else is out there on the market.

I've been quiet of late what with the lost mojo etc, I am just trying to get back into the hobby by installing some tortoise motors from below the baseboards. Probably not the best choice of jobs to regain my enthusiasm and my poor back would also agree I expect...

Cheers,

Martyn.