3 link

Hi Jim,

Regarding what could go wrong has made me realise that maybe the Araldite does not cope well with low temperatures, the Araldite I had was stored in a unheated workshop when I was living in the centre of France. One winter in particular we had temperatures down to -22, so looking back now this possibly did not help the hardening process.

Martyn.

Hi Jim,

Just a quick note to say I'm enjoying the build and one question if I may. You say your going to attach the cylinder block using epoxy, so you obviously have faith in the stuff. I have had mixed results over the years with epoxy, so can you tell me which type and make you are happy with.

Regards,

Martyn.

Hi Jim,

Just a quick note to say I'm enjoying the build and one question if I may. You say your going to attach the cylinder block using epoxy, so you obviously have faith in the stuff. I have had mixed results over the years with epoxy, so can you tell me which type and make you are happy with.

Regards,

Martyn.

And 0-MF. It may not be quite the scale gauge, but it works and does so with standard 0 Fine wheels, and unless you look far more closely than you should, you can't spot the difference compared to S7.

Jim

Hi Jim,

That's exactly what I build my track to, 31.5 gauge works for me.

Martyn.

As a possible "whinger", may I explain my line of questioning. Although I solely model in EM, I, like many others, had my head turned by the Dapol 08 and the forthcoming wagons.

I'd (erroneously) assumed that, as I don't closely follow O gauge, out of the box Peco pointwork would be a simple route to a little 7mm plank, but it seems it amplifies the OO gauge problems, and I might not be satisfied with the end result.

Thanks to those who have explained the potential issues.

 

Mike.

Evening Mike,

I didn't realise there was also the same problem in 4mm, mind you saying that I was also into EM back in the late 80's so being that I use to make my own track back then I wasn't aware of the problem.

The wheel drop definitely seems to affect the longer wheelbase stock, I did make a video years ago showing the problem, I will see if I can find it and put it up on here, the wheel drop is not that bad in my opinion.

Martyn.

Sometimes I feel sorry for the guys at Peco, they were obviously trying to cater for so many different widths of wheel, different depths of flange, let alone various B to B sizes. They were never going to keep everybody happy, so all I can say to the whingers is either put up or learn to build your own.

Martyn.

PS, with reference to the " Whingers " this is not directed to anyone in particular on here : )

Looking good Brian, is this just a flirtation with steam or will others follow

Steve,

Brian's being very modest, have a look at the steam locos he has already built on his Flickr account, you'll be surprised...

Martyn.

Hi Paul,

The only other bit of advice I would give, is that if you do decide to spray them. Stick the sleepers down on a bit of old hardboard and lay them onto some double sided tape, otherwise they will literally blow away, guess how I found out. : )

Martyn.

I always spray paint or stain my sleepers first, you make such a mess otherwise. I have never had trouble laying the chairs afterwards and the adhesion is still good if using paint or stain.

Hope this helps,

Martyn.

Morning Simon,

I see what you mean, that crocodile bogie looks just a little to snug under the body, only other thing would be to put a smaller wheel set in place maybe.

Regards,

Martyn.

Thanks Simon,

I always look forward to your updates, and it will be great to see it all together, I bet you can't wait either. Thanks for the info.

Martyn.

Thanks Andy must admit I think this is my favourite bit

Cheers

Believe it or not but a standard can of Halfords Satin Black is a great base colour for sleepers.

Martyn.

Hi Simon,

I'm sure it's been mentioned before but I cannot find it, can you tell me who's product your using for ballast? Looks like Woodland Scenics range? If so what size did you decide on?

I cannot wait to see all the sections of the layout joined together, I'm sure it will be worth it.

All the best,

Martyn.

Looking at this picture Martyn the vertical link is straight with no kink in it.

Hi Brian,

Oh right probably my poor eyesight again, in that case how close is the crosshead away from the face of the front crank rod pin?

I can remember riding behind a West Country on the Watercress line a while back and looking along the engine the union link was very prominent whilst in motion.

Regards,

Martyn..

Hi Terry,

Thanks for the advice, it is certainly a bit of a minefield out there. It might be a better idea if he just sends the loco off to Howes or a similar dealer.

We are both attending the O Gauge show at Bristol at the end of the month, I know South West Digital will be there so I think I'd better try and do some more research before them.

Thanks once again Terry,

Regards,

Martyn.

Hi Guys,

A friend has a Heljan Class 33 in 7mm and wants to convert it to DCC, so I am looking for recommendations for the whole lot, chip,sound and speakers please.

As you can probably tell I am also a newbie at DCC so any info would be great.

All the best,

Martyn.

PS, I don't know if this is of any importance, but the loco has two motors fitted, perhaps they all do?

Running is better, whilst taking wheels off I found a small pip on the back of one that the plungers where catching on so after rubbing it down it is a lot better. Haven't run it since I added this valve gear as it won't do a revolution until I decide what to do with that crosshead pin.

Hi Brian,

I do not think it is the crosshead pin that is at fault, looking at some photos of the real thing, it looks like the vertical rod has a distinct curve right at the top where it meets the bracket off the footplate.

Regards,

Martyn.

Unt tonigt I as bin mostly byin wirin. Red unt blik. 50 meteors off etch.

Can someone please translate for me, I cannot understand this Cornish script.....

Martyn

I’ll have to look again to be sure, but I don’t think you can use a juicer, as there are frogs in the circuit that would be DC/DCC switchable.

Have a look at my P.D. thread, there’s a bit there about using choccy blocks with Tortoises. Saves dripping molten solder in your eye...

Best

Simon

Hi Simon,

Yes I'm going to use the choccy blocks, and I'll probably fit relays to make them as reliable as possible the same as Chaz has done. I will just have to wait until the family go out for the day, otherwise the swear box will be brimming.....

Sorry for the hijack Chris....

Martyn.

I don't think that frog juicers will work on DC at all.

Hi,

When it comes to anything electrical I'm useless , so a while back Simon was very kind and drew me a dummies guide plan of my layout. It is designed to be DC/DCC switchable, but saying that only one part will be DC which does include a complete circuit, the rest is all DCC.

Martyn.

Hi Simon,

I know these juicer thingies are one of your pet hates, but what with one single slip, one outside single slip ( with 4 vees built in ) and one bad back I thought this would be the easiest option. For instance, less stress, less swearing and less upside down soldering....

If you remember the electrical diagram to drew for me, the fact that only one circuit will be for DC surely means I could still use a hex juicer if needs be?

Your best pupil,

Martyn.

How old was the cow?

Paul R

Not if I want to run DC.

Oh I didn't know that, I will have to change my electrickery plan now, dohhh.....

Martyn.

I had a count up yesterday and including points and power, I'm up to 16 wires on one board.

Hex frog juicer ?