3 link

Managed to load my plan into Templot. That was hard, now for the really hard part...

 

KX Templot.jpeg

 

Martyn, aka Jo Day...... ( don't ask ) ....

I've purchased my square rodding from MSE, which fits the Modelu stools exactly.

I've also used the etch for the cranks and compensators from MSE as well.

 

Jinty

Hi Jinty,

Any chance of putting a picture of the MSE etch up on here, be interesting to see what is included.

End of hijack.

Martyn.

Great work as usual Ken, I do like this class of loco so much so I almost feel like jumping ship from the GWR....

What sort of radius will the loco be able to cope with ?

Martyn.

Early GWR rodding was round, and some lasted to the end like at Dymock on the daffodil line.

Most was replaced with the " U" shape as it had less flex than the round rods.

Martyn.

My only gripe is that I wish there were more compensators on the etch, horizontal version of course.

Still that little lot will keep your fingers singed for a good while : )

Martyn.

Hi Chris,

No it was just some " L " shaped brass section I had laying around, I think the bar was actually L shaped ?

Martyn.

Hi Chris,

I forgot to put it up earlier, below is my attempt of a GWR fouling bar, hopefully it will look better with a load of oil and grot applied.

Martyn.

Hi Chris,

The C&L parts do look the bizz but at a price. I went for the cheaper version that Southwark models use to supply which is an etch of loads of cranks and bits and bobs. These are now sold through Roxey at £7.00 if I remember rightly.

Hope this is of some help,

Martyn.

It's best if he emails me at info@rmweb.co.uk with his known details so I can sort it for him.

Thank you Andy,

like most of us he's finally put the wine and women behind him and has returned to the best hobby.

I will get him to contact you,

Cheers,

Martyn.

Hi,

A good friend of mine use to be a member on this forum but has forgotten his password. When he tries to retrieve the password he said he gets a message similar to " this name is already in use ", any ideas what he needs to do, or is doing wrong would be most appreciated.

Martyn.

What Dave has written above is pretty much there or there abouts.

 

To build track in 7mm scale - either 0-FS or S7 then you need materials, templates and jigs (gauges and crossing assembly).  At this level there is not a lot of difference between 0-FS and S7 apart from the dimensions of the jigs.  If you wish, C&L can supply assembled crossing vees and common crossings in both 0-FS and S7.  So in respect of building track there is very little to choose between the two standards.  Making S7 track is no more difficult than doing the same thing in 0-FS.

 

The S7 Group Stores can even supply some assembly jigs for common crossings with clearances for 31.5mm trackwork.

 

Yes, there are some S7 specific chairs available from members of the S7 Group - those are predominately for adding detail to the common crossing although that is not a necessary requirement for smooth running.

 

Slater's Plastikard includes S7 wheels for carriages and wagons...  for sale to all irrespective of membership of the S7 Group.  Similarly with Peartree Engineering.

 

The S7 Group has commissioned Slaters to produce driving wheels to S7 standards, there are about 15 different wheels in the range at the moment.

 

There is a group of S7 modellers who meet in the area between Newport and Chippenham, four or five times a year.  If you wish I can arrange for one of that group to contact you with details of their meetings.

 

regards, Graham Beare

Is that the " Broad " gauge group....

Sorry couldn't help myself, : )

Martyn.

Thanks Simon, lots to think about, but regarding S7, I don't want to run anything on anyone else's layout so it's a possibility...but, if I went down that road, I would have to join their society and buy everything from them, (have I got this right) I would also need to change loco wheels for their finer tolerences?

Regarding scale7, also you will probably need a good lathe as it is not just a matter of changing the b-t-b measurements to 33mm, the wheels have also got to be reprofiled . I know there are now some available , but I think most will still have to be turned.

Martyn.

Hi Phil,

Welcome to the " best " scale, I moved up to 7mm back in the early 90's from EM gauge and have never regretted the move.

Looking at your standard of modelling Phil, it will be great to follow your new project and I look forward to the updates.

All the best,

Martyn.

Has anyone tried to modify a PECO O gauge double slip into a single slip version , any ideas on whats possible ?

 

 

thanks 

 

 

Dave

 

That's an interesting question, I would expect it wouldn't be that straightforward mainly because of removing the K crossing part rather than the turnout blades, etc. How about just leaving it as a double slip and painting the unused rails a rust colour.

Martyn.

Martyn make sure those wires soldered to the board off the Tortoise are secure.  If they can move you might get a short - ask me how I know - and at a show as well - aaaarghhh!  I would use D connectors now.

 

John

Hi John,

I know the feeling, I had a dry joint on one a while back and let's just say it took a long time for me to track down the loose wire....  

Thanks for all the info Martin, There to tall / long for my project, my boards are only 2 1/2 inches deep, so I will stick to the Traintronics TT300 that are DCC Ready if reqd. There a tadge noisier and faster than the Tortoise but are very reliable, I used them on West Shed.

Hi Andrew,

I'm fairly certain you can buy an adapter so that they can still work laying on there side, no doubt someone will help out with the suppliers name...

Nor am I Peter, and as I'm considering Tortoise next time / for the first time, it would be good to know. I also need to know the depth of the Tortoise Motor.

Hi Guys,

The Tortoise motors are three and a quarter inches long in old money as the saying goes. In the photo below the green wire goes to the frog, the red and black go to the running rails and the two outside wires ( blue and yellow ) are for the switch itself. The additional terminals are for directional lighting if I remember correctly. I run all the wires to a chocolate box in case I have to replace the motor and also it's easier to swap the wires over if the black and red are the wrong way round .

All the best,

Martyn.

Bigger shed? Just a thought.....

Martyn.

Amazing, just amazing .

Martyn.

Being that I've been in this hobby for so long and the fact that the layout I'm building is still my first using DCC, I still find it magical that you can buffer up to another loco without them both running off together !! ( How sad ).

Also in my opinion the slow running is so much smoother, and being 7mm it gives that sense of weight and inertia.

Keep up the good work Chris.

Martyn.

That's odd - I can see them! I've attempted to link to Google photos, I think I'll go back to the old method...

 

Brake_1.jpg

 

Brake_2.jpg

 

Is that better?

Yep, that's fine now.

Martyn.

They’re 2 different diagrams to the Queen Mary. The LBSCR rebuilds are to diagram 1580 (the first one 56263 is slightly different) numbers 56263-81 built 1933-34 and lasted in normal traffic to the 50’s, 5 were allocated to long welded rail trains at Redbridge and lasted bit longer. Was told that the bogies are extremely similar to the LNWR Oerlikon units (1 preserved at NRM)

The new builds are to diagram 1550 built 1936 and lasted to this century numbers 56282-306, some had normal planked sides, some had the guards part sheeted from new and also some had fully sheeted sides from new.

Info taken from Illustrated history SR Wagons volume 4

Hope that helps

Michael

Thank you Michael,

So the LBSCR rebuilds to diagram 1580 were the ones with windows?

Regards,

Martyn.

Hi Michael,

Just a question, I think your Queen Mary brakes look great, but I have never seen them with windows fitted only what looks like metal panels in there place. Have you any history on them as to when the windows were covered up.

All the best,

Martyn.

This is the only CRT kit that I have built, but I found it enjoyable to build, lots of etched parts and an RSU comes in very handy. A solid coach that rolls/ free wheels along nicely.

Hope this helps,

Martyn.

Another query relates to how to actually model a fouling bar? On the real railway they align with, and are depressed by, the wheel flange.

The one marked as 7 will definitely be on the scenic section and will visually be noticeable. I'm going to discount any thoughts of a working bar. Due to scaled down mass I can see such a feature causing derailments or lumpy running. So, some sort of long strip in the depressed position is needed?

On the subject of fouling bars, below is a grainy diagram of one, although it seems they were classed as a part of a facing point lock and also called a locking bar. In google search there are a couple of photos in images, so not a lot to go on.

Regarding the bridge chairs I'm fairly certain the only GWR 4 bolt chairs were the slab and bracket chair which was fitted under the vee's and some of the elbow chairs. The bridge chair ( L1 chair ) was just a 2 bolt chair.

Martyn.

I have built their Southern gangwayed bogie luggage van, and I must say I enjoyed the build which is nearly all brass construction. There were loads of parts so it's not a quick build, but it still looks the part to my eyes.

There is a couple of photos of it in my gallery if you want to see it.

Martyn.

PS. An RSU is a god send with the smaller parts.