3 link

The tubing below is from Albion alloys ltd, and has a i/d of 0.8 mm and an o/d of 1.0 mm, and that is a piece of 0.7mm nickel silver rod inside of it. And a bit of a cruel close up, this is showing what I intend to do at a baseboard joint, the tubing is just slid over the rod to keep the ends together. Sorry for the hijack Jinty, Martyn.

http://ksmetals.com/25.html Please do not ask me to convert it from good old inches into metric, but I know they do some pretty small square section as I have seen them down at Squires model shop. Martyn.

Hi Chris, The 0.7mm round Rod I am using is 600mm long, being round I am using some thin brass tube that is an interference fit to join the two rods together and just flash some solder over the two ends. Maybe you could use something similar, I tried plastic tube first but the o/d was to chunky and stood out like a sore thumb. Martyn. Ps, if my description above is hard to visualise I'll put a picture up.

I'm not on about whoever might charge you more, I meant it's expensive in the first place.

The only disadvantage is to your wallet : ) Martyn.

Hi Chris, Thats a great idea with the cut down chairs, I would like to poach the idea if you don't mind. Funnily enough I've been racking my brains for a while as to what would give the best impression of those clamp/ bracket things, brilliant idea, ta. Martyn.

Thanks Jinty, It's good to know what else is out there on the market. I've been quiet of late what with the lost mojo etc, I am just trying to get back into the hobby by installing some tortoise motors from below the baseboards. Probably not the best choice of jobs to regain my enthusiasm and my poor back would also agree I expect... Cheers, Martyn.

Look forward to following this build, and like I said to you on Farcebook, good luck with the Templot. Martyn, aka Jo Day...... ( don't ask ) ....

Hi Jinty, Any chance of putting a picture of the MSE etch up on here, be interesting to see what is included. End of hijack. Martyn.

Great work as usual Ken, I do like this class of loco so much so I almost feel like jumping ship from the GWR.... What sort of radius will the loco be able to cope with ? Martyn.

Early GWR rodding was round, and some lasted to the end like at Dymock on the daffodil line. Most was replaced with the " U" shape as it had less flex than the round rods. Martyn.

My only gripe is that I wish there were more compensators on the etch, horizontal version of course. Still that little lot will keep your fingers singed for a good while : ) Martyn.

Hi Chris, No it was just some " L " shaped brass section I had laying around, I think the bar was actually L shaped ? Martyn.

Hi Chris, I forgot to put it up earlier, below is my attempt of a GWR fouling bar, hopefully it will look better with a load of oil and grot applied. Martyn.

Hi Chris, The C&L parts do look the bizz but at a price. I went for the cheaper version that Southwark models use to supply which is an etch of loads of cranks and bits and bobs. These are now sold through Roxey at £7.00 if I remember rightly. Hope this is of some help, Martyn.

Thank you Andy, like most of us he's finally put the wine and women behind him and has returned to the best hobby. I will get him to contact you, Cheers, Martyn.

Hi, A good friend of mine use to be a member on this forum but has forgotten his password. When he tries to retrieve the password he said he gets a message similar to " this name is already in use ", any ideas what he needs to do, or is doing wrong would be most appreciated. Martyn.

Is that the " Broad " gauge group.... Sorry couldn't help myself, : ) Martyn.

Regarding scale7, also you will probably need a good lathe as it is not just a matter of changing the b-t-b measurements to 33mm, the wheels have also got to be reprofiled . I know there are now some available , but I think most will still have to be turned. Martyn.

Hi Phil, Welcome to the " best " scale, I moved up to 7mm back in the early 90's from EM gauge and have never regretted the move. Looking at your standard of modelling Phil, it will be great to follow your new project and I look forward to the updates. All the best, Martyn.

That's an interesting question, I would expect it wouldn't be that straightforward mainly because of removing the K crossing part rather than the turnout blades, etc. How about just leaving it as a double slip and painting the unused rails a rust colour. Martyn.

Hi John, I know the feeling, I had a dry joint on one a while back and let's just say it took a long time for me to track down the loose wire.... Hi Andrew, I'm fairly certain you can buy an adapter so that they can still work laying on there side, no doubt someone will help out with the suppliers name...

Hi Guys, The Tortoise motors are three and a quarter inches long in old money as the saying goes. In the photo below the green wire goes to the frog, the red and black go to the running rails and the two outside wires ( blue and yellow ) are for the switch itself. The additional terminals are for directional lighting if I remember correctly. I run all the wires to a chocolate box in case I have to replace the motor and also it's easier to swap the wires over if the black and red are the wrong way round . All the best, Martyn.