3 link

Those masters your building look amazing, can you show us the complete process including the resin casting method please. All the best, Martyn.

Steve, you must stop putting all these photos up, you know I'm holding out for the Finney7 version. I must resist....... Martyn.

Hi Brian, My layout is in a room 19' x 15' and like you say in 7mm it doesn't go as far as you expect it to. I look forward to seeing your updates. Martyn.

Looks great Brian, What size area have you got to play with? Martyn.

I have only missed one show in the past 12 years, wouldn't miss it for the world, I drive up from West Sussex. Martyn.

Wow, I'm in the market for a Standard 5, but I can live with a 4, especially a MOK kit. Best I pop over and see him at Telford. If he wants a deposit he can have one, great news. Martyn.

Hi Ken, Regarding the tightspot was it the rods or the frame in the end? All the best, Martyn.

The wiring for the slip above was red to one K crossing, black to the other K crossing and then the two frogs on the left wired together to the green, and the same for the right hand side to the other green wire, simples..... And I also use tortoise motors for the actuation of the blades. Martyn.

First of all Simon I did not smile, it was trapped wind, honest : ) Anyhow I copped out and went down the juicer route because my knowledge of anything electrical is zilch... Below is the gadget that has been worth every penny of the £6.25p they each cost or 3 for about £16. Just solder the 3 wires and bingo. The outside slip which could of been a nightmare to wire up, required just two little juicers to get to work without a single problem. I know a chap who has the same outside slip and uses some " rotary " switchy thingy to make it work!! Juicers are worth every penny in my opinion and have kept me sane when it comes to wiring. I brought mine from Gaugemaster, or some call it the Engine shed down in Sussex. Mini juicer. Outside slip. Regards, Martyn.

Morning Paul, Great video, just wondered if you have heard of " Touchcab " ? It is what I use and I can control the locos, sound, signals and turnouts all from either an iPod, iPhone or an. iPad. Very user friendly and would throughly recommend. Martyn.

Hi Ken, With ref to Antex, my original iron was a solder station which lasted 27yrs, the next one less than two years. On further research I found out their irons are now manufactured in China, whereas they use to be made over here, just saying. Martyn.

They do not call this place Bognor Regis for nothing .....

Hi Guys, Not a lot to report of late, over 45 days without rain now in this area, so I spend most of my time watering the garden. The platform has had a bit more work done to it, but still a fairway to go before I will be happy with it. All the best, Martyn.

How's this for shiplap, about halfway down the page the little carting shed. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/125274-midland-in-bristol/page-14 Martyn.

I have also got an 08 with the active drive, I cannot fault it and this was my first go at DCC and sound. The only thing I would say is that I found it difficult to remember what button represented which sound, this was a problem until I went for http://www.touchcab.com/. I found this app so user friendly, the buttons have various pictures like horn, brakes, lights, door shutting and opening etc, etc. And all from my iPhone or iPad, so no wires all controlled using wifi. You would still need a interface by lenz and an LZV100 control unit and also a cheap router. If you do not have an iPhone, you can use an old iPod which you can pick up quite cheap nowadays. Martyn.

Hi Guys, Not a lot to report, but I thought I would post an update. I have used a synthetic filler to build up and represent the platform edging stones on the non running side, this filler is very easy to sand down and then scribe any detail you might want to add. I have yet to make a start on building the main platform where the station building will be sited, although that side should be easier as I have only the one side to detail and that will be brickwork instead of stone. ATB, Martyn.

Evening Paul, Below is the lifting section on my layout, very basic but it works. As for the safety aspect ie:- to prevent locos and rolling stock from nose diving onto the floor. On the hinge side I have used parts from an old standard lamp, the spring terminals touch the two brass plates to create a circuit once the section is in place. If the section is raised the locos will stop even before it enters the short tunnel. The hinges themselves are standard kitchen door hinges, the fact that they are adjustable is a bonus. On the other side, I have used a micro switch wired to the frog of the first turnout on the fiddle yard, when the section is open the circuit is dead and there is enough distance for the loco to stop before the drop even the ones with stay alive chips or large flywheels fitted have been catered for. A bit crude, but so far it works without any problems. Martyn.

Treemendous..........

I model in 7mm and have never had any trouble with the chairs and I have used both C&L and Exactoscale. All I do is file the even of the rail web into a slight vee, which is then just right to slide the chairs on to the rail. They need to be quite a tight fit otherwise the chair will not grip the rail correctly. Martyn.

Most probably blue engineering bricks, they are a much stronger brick so less moisture can permeate and so last longer in use. These can usually be found being used as a top course on a lot of brick work. Martyn.

Hi Clive, I have never come across your threads before, crumbs you have been a busy chap there's enough there to keep me occupied for a couple of evenings, certainly looks a good read.... ATB, Martyn.

Hi Clive, Before I explain a bit more, I must say when it comes to anything electrical I am absolutely useless, I can just about get my head around how to change the polarity on a point. And furthermore I have no local club or friends to give me a hand ( Billy no mates )... So it had to be fairly simple, and yes your correct it needs a Lenz interface, but I just plugged it in and connected it to a cheap router, found the IP address ( think that's what it's called ) put it in the app and Bingo ! Such a relief and easy to use, all the controls at a flick of a finger, literally..... Sorry I can't help you with a phone, all my workmates laugh at my ( old ) iPhone 4 and ask how long it takes the valves to warm up when I switch it on.... But also you do not need a iPhone , you can use a cheap old iPod or an iPad tablet. Anyway sorry for the hijack Andy, normal service can now resume. ATB, Martyn. PS, Doh, also you need a Lenz control box thingy , sorry still half asleep...

I just use my phone with a £5.99 app, no wires, 28 functions, controls, locos,points and signals, simples.... Martyn.