luke_stevens

Thanks for the info. But how long? I don't mind 90 min or 2hr on a train but 3.5hr on a coach, in each direction it more than I'm ok with. 😞 Luke

It isn't a good idea to travel on a Sunday in the best of circumstances. Trying to travel the day after a strike isn't a good idea. Expecting to travel on a Sunday after a strike isn't at all sensible 🙃 Luke

The first 2 "day time" National Express coaches to Birmingham from London are now sold out. It's near enough a 4hr journey... I enjoy Warley, but not that much... Luke

All I know is that I can't get there because the complete train strike in the Birmingham area☹️ Luke

Peco are using the same rail as their N gauge track: looks code 55, is actually code 80. Luke

There isn't any Hornby TT120 track in circulation yet to check but Hornby did say it was compatible with Tillig (rail height and track geometry) so here are two pictures I took complaining the Tillig TT track with the Peco TT track. 1) Tillig to the left, Peco to the right. The rail height seems about the same but the visual height is different. Oddly I haven't tried to couple them up (and can't now that the Peco is used on my TT120 diorama, covered in the Peco track forum) I can't tell from the picture but I believe that the rail head of the Peco track is finer than the Tillig which could cause problems with joining the web of the rail. 2) Peco Left, Tillig right. The rail tops look about the same height above the surface. Hopefully sufficient that a swipe of the file will sort any discrepancy out. Luke

That's a pretty good description of RMweb, if not the whole Internet 😀 Luke

Thansk for the kind words. Yes 1-6 are the wires to keep :) If you ae running on DC then you connect 1,3 and 5 together, and 2,4 and 6 together. Which from your pic looks like the back wires from the trucks to the grey motor wire. And the red wires from the trucks to the orange motor wire. If you are thinking DCC I wouldn't try and reuse the included Next18 decoder socket. It is too complex for the Cl22. I would go for something much more basic and wire it directly. I'd use something like a Digitrax DZ126, a SoundTraxx MC1Z102SQ or a TCS Z2. They area all small decoders, primarily designed for Z gauge. British locos are fundamentally smaller that European or American prototypes so there may not be much space inside the cl 22, which itself is an even smaller prototype https://www.digitrax.com/products/mobile-decoders/dz126/ https://soundtraxx.com/products/dcc-mobile-decoders/mc1z102sq/ https://tcsdcc.com/1296 Luke

There are a few details missing on the Lincoln Loco 33. Most are too small for me to actually add / change but one think that I think is important for the look of a 33 is the rain strip above the windows. I thought about trying to glue some plastic card strip in place but on such a small scale I'd make a dreadful mess! Instead I've tried using a very thin strip of sticky label. This is my first attempt and I think it make the 33 look more like a 33. Thoughts? Luke (and it's suddenly obvious quite how much filling and sanding I still have to do!) Photo of the prototype, cropped and flipped to show similar angle. And yes I've cut out the side cab window central bar as it will be easier to glaze like this :)

This looks more complex that it needs to be :) Having looked at the Piko instruction sheet (which should be in the box but I down loaded my copy) a couple of things stand out. If you are not using the lights or DCC the all the wiring harnesses and circuit board are unnecessary. The only 6 wires that concern you are: 2 from the front truck (black/red), 2 from the motor (orange/grey) and 2 from the rear truck (black/red). 1) removing the unnecessary wiring If you unscrew the 2 small screws at the top front behind the front lights then the whole assembly will come away (probably in several pieces). Now do the same thing to the rear. Next unsolder / cut as close to the circuit board as possible, the 6 wires (red/black/orange/grey/black/red) and the whole wiring rig will come loose. Put this in the spare box for future use! The motor is now only held in place with 3 screws. Leave it and them alone for the moment. 2) removing the trucks. The key tool is a small flat bladed screw driver. Gently slip it a little way between the gear cover and the gear tower and gently twist. With luck the gear cover will spring loose. If not go to the other side of the truck and repeat. It is possible that it might try and put itself into orbit, so go gently... Make sure you twist the screw driver NOT lift: that is the way to interplanetary gear covers or broken gear covers. The trucks should now drop out. From the Piko diagrams you will then have 2 bogies, 2 gear covers, 2 small plastic cardan shafts, 2 worm gears on shafts and a motor still in the chassis. Carefully put each of the items away safely except the chassis and motor. Now unscrew the 3 screw that hold the motor cover, and remove the motor. And put safely aside. Rather than using huge files / borrowing a milling machine / using a motor drill and (many) grinding disks I would go for a razor saw like the one below https://www.micromark.com/10-piece-Deluxe-Razor-Saw-Knife-Set You know from putting the cl 22 body over the V90 chassis that framing fits "inside" so place the razor saw next to the chassis block where the cab is (the widest part) and holding the blade not the handle, gently move the blade back and forth. This should give you a cut line along the length of the chassis. Keeping the saw blade upright and just keep going. The chassis is longer than the Cl 22 so you will need to trim the ends but that's not a task for now. Hope this demystifies / helps. Luke PS At EVERY stage take photos! It makes it much easier to put everything back together!

Whilst the bogie wheelbase is the same the loco wheel base is ~13mm longer. Would also need chopping the cl 17 body to remove the frame. Luke

Hmm. That's a bit disconcerting. The bogie wheelbase and loco wheelbase are really close so don't give up yet. There are 3 important measurements 1) width of motor, 2) inside width of cl 22 body, and 3) outside width of V90 chassis. I wouldn't think it is more than a few mm that need trimming from the chassis. It would probably need "emptying" the chassis but pretty much any loco would require that as as a resin body is thicker than a plastic one. This hobby has the habit of getting us to do things we weren't expecting and have to learn! Good luck 😀 Luke

Thanka, I'll add it to the next version of the list. Luke

if it is this model then the bogies are a bit too long for a Hymek but almost perfect for a 76! E42/109/142 then the prototype bogie is 3500mm / 29.2 mm in model, where as the Hymek is 3200mm / 26.7mm in model. But as TT-Pete it's better to have a chassis that works than one that doesn't! :) Luke https://www.berliner-tt-bahnen.info/index.php/modelle/elektrolokomotiven.html TT UK D&E possible chassis matches 061122.pdf

Oddly I've just noticed they did the same for me. Also from ModelshopLippe. And I am also not at home tomorrow (Wed). Luke

So... Did arrive? Luke ++++++++++++ Just seen you other post :( L

Hopefully this gives an idea of what I mean. These locomotive sideframes were sprayed black all over, then front was sprayed 5:2 grey: black, then from the top quarter with 5:1 grey: black as a highlight. The idea is to produce "depth of shadow" which wouldn't normally occur on a model. The paints were the Vallejo Black Primer and Vallejo Grey Primer. It is more effective in person! Luke

1) The only clear refence I have so found of the roof of a 33 is the Heljan model, so time to do some research / measuring... 2) Well I might as well do a 33 00 to TT120 comparison... I "knew" the size difference but this makes it very obvious. A quick comparison shows that the cantrail on the cab is missing. I haven't decided if I want to do/re-do the cab door handrails. Or rather, can I do better that the ones mounded? In 4mm it would be an obvious "yes" but in TT120 I'm not sure.

And both are diesel hydraulics :) Luke

I ordered "126406 Zurüstbeutel - Diesellok TT" which is the bufferbeam detail pack for the Br 132 (the pack for the 111/108) is out of stock. Should give me pipes and cosmetic couplings for the 33. Luke

3mm coach buffers perhaps? Luke

I think it was a BR designed one, not a "standard" one. Luke

Not just the small players. Have a look at the Roco.cc website for TT. If you down load the spare parts lists it will show per loco what parts may be available. I've ordered a couple of pack of TT diesels buffer beam details (pipes and coupling) and some (round) buffers for my 33. Not sure if the have oval buffers on anything but the other parts might be of use. Luke

North British Works plates are diamond shaped (and on the 22 went missing pretty quickly) As for Kestrel! Yes there are some odd choices. I suppose it was that art work was ready to scale? I'm not even sure if there is a TT120 kit of kestrel. If there was I MIGHT be tempted!!! Luke

Railtec Transfers are now doing TT120 transfers Loco Numbers (custom) https://www.railtec-models.com/showitem.php?id=5582 Double Arrows https://www.railtec-models.com/showitem.php?id=5227 Orange Overheard warning https://www.railtec-models.com/showitem.php?id=5264 Headcodes https://www.railtec-models.com/showitem.php?id=5779 They don't yet do a custom pack for a full loco (as they currently offer in 4mm) Luke