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I too was very young when the last ones went. I guess any sound chip is going to be precisely that.... An educated guess.

I think with the sound it is probably not worth getting too hung up on the synchronisation etc. I would just like a sound chip that gives at least a representation of this LMS loco. Presumably it will have to be an 8F sound or something similar?

Because I can Bob, I normally use standard and Silver, but such a magnificent beast deserves better.

One day some company will design a chip that will be the same size and plugs in like a micro/nano tablet chip, it will contain all the required info and will plug in under the body so that it does not have to be removed. I am sure the technology is there it just needs a company to take it on.

For a non sound chip it will be a Lenz Gold, but I am hoping someone will produce a sound chip quite soon.

An interesting issue is going to be what sound project will be appropriate? I would like an Aussie AD60 sound chip, not proto typical but awesome sound.

I think we have to get the bad build quality thing into perspective, to be fair there have been very few problems reported with this model, considering the amount sold the percentage must be minute. Translucent side panels is not a fault it is a niggle, my green side panels were fine, one can easily cut down translucence by painting the inside of the panels, they detach easily enough. The screw thing is an annoyance, I had a similar problem with my Bachmann 10000 with one screw fine, four cross threaded and one jammed solid, Bachmann replaced it from stock which I am sure Hornby will do the same. I have rebuilt my Sentinel and it looks rough as a Witches t*t but running qualities are superb from the off. rsh7684, if the model is faulty Hornby should replace it AND the postage which they have always done in the last if I have sent faulty goods back

Here's my Denise looking a little worldly weary down at Nangullow Main.

Is the problem fixable at home Roy or does it necessitate a return?

Hi Retroman if you look back I photographed the blanking plug, I fitted a Lenz mini as follows. I accessed and removed the capacitor, 4 screws to undo motor and it is under that. The coloured wires red, orange, grey and black are plugged into the blanking plug. Remove blanking plug snipped red and black wires in half. Remove blue,white and yellow wires from decoder if you do not plan to use them Reduce length of decoder wires to about a third of their length Join wires to wires from blanking blanking plug (the sequence is dictated by the wires on the insert plug).Cover with heat shrink. Put everything back under the blue cab section everything fits easily. Away you go! Sorry if this appears a bit condescending it is not meant to be, just explaining how I did it. The Lenz mini is superb and my Sentinel runs very smoothly.

34theletterbetweenB&D Your experience obviously allows you to do the wheel?axle tapping with confidence, could you post a picture of how you grip them in order to tap them, Even then I would probably be very hesitant to go belting the wheels on £199 worth of Garratt

For me it is the latest incarnation of the Castle , closely followed by the King Arthur ( original manifestation). The Castle has superb build quality, has little or nothing wrong with it and runs like a dream. When I say the original manifestation of the KA I do not mean the old model but the original manifestation of the latest incarnation, runs so smoothly and looks superb. The later models have a different bogie attachment which has more of a tendency to derail.

I stand corrected on the RRP perhaps I should have wrote HSP (Hornby Site Price!) Anyway more interestingly I wired my Lenz mini into the blanking plug....so easy , just cut wires on decoder down to about one third length and wired as per plug. The capacitor is very easy to remove, four screws for the motor which eases away from body without any dramas, capacitor is wrapped in a bit of tape and was simple to snip Popped the loco on the test track and it ran beautifully smooth, right down to scale 1km/h on my Z21, no judders or hesitation just smooth transition throughout acceleration and deceleration. Have to say full marks to Hornby for a fabulous little motor, and model.

It's a shame because as I said it stocks some excellent modelling equipment and one can pick up all those tiny screws, pieces of plastic/ metal/ wood etc etc at reasonable prices, but how £ 68 can be asked for a loco with an RRP of £55 defeats me. In a lighter note I have just started my conversion to the China Clay version ' Denise' Thanks to 37670 for his info on his version.

It would be Paul, it still stocks some excellent modelling items, but sadly it's stock of Hornby and Bachmann locos/ rolling stock has shrunk in recent times. There are the occasional bargains to be had but generally they are too expensive generally to warrant buying locos and rolling stock that is why I cancelled my Sentinel order with them and bought from Amazon.

Superb review Garrattfan with some excellent photos.

For those who wish to put a decoder ( non sound ) in their loco and do not want to use the Hornby chip the blanking plug has two loops of wire. I am using a Lenz mini, I am removing the blue, white and yellow wire from the decoder then snipping the red and black blanking wires and attaching the decoder wires in correct sequence to the motor wires. The mini sits on top of the Hornby plug. This way I can simply unplug the decoder if I wish to change it and it saves hard wiring which some people are not happy to do .. Apologies for the blurred photo but it does illustrate the plug and wires.

My local shop in Banbury has a plentiful stock of all Sentinels and they will continue to have a plentiful stock when they are charging £68 a time...£21 more than I paid on Amazon!

Indeed Steve I purchase from Hattons regularly and they always take great care with packaging, even if the item is an awkward shape. My posting #594 was not meant as a criticism of said company, it was merely to point out consumer rights. Full marks to Hattons for their prompt attention when there has been a problem, and I am sure they will address any problems that arise. Your point Steve about the problems occurring at source is spot on and I am sure that Hattons and Heljan are taking steps to remedy this.

Indeed QC is the responsibility of the manufacturer and that is something for Hattons not the purchaser to worry about. The responsibility for ensuring the customer gets a decent model ultimately lays with the seller I.e.Hattons. It would probably mean using an employee to check every model being despatched. Under the sale of goods act the buyer can llegitimately request postage back which if everyone pushed for it may be worth (cheaper) inspecting every model before despatch. However all that said I personally would only ask for a replacement to be checked and hope that when mine does arrive in May Hattons will have sorted out any quality issues with a Heljan. The model itself sounds as if it has spectacular strength., and a good 'un is worth every penny of the £200

Interesting so far, it seems that it is pot luck whether you will get a good or bad one. One thing that is unacceptable is a model that comes with parts missing and not in the box. Much as I am looking forward to the Garratt if it is a ropey one I will be wanting any replacement inspected before despatch.

Would it be possible to stay on the Beyer Garratt rather than go off at tangents about Heljan in general.

On-line your model is really bad luck but we will have to see others to find out if it is just one bad one or there are serious QC issues. Yours should go back immediately because it is not fit for purpose, I would not even attempt to correct all the faults. However in fairness some of your observations are more disappointments than faults. As for the Australian AD60 I contacted Eureka to ask if the sound chip was available to buy, unfortunately they do not sell them separately.

No powerbase! That is impressive haulage power then 65 wagons up a I:30, and it did not look to be struggling. Would still like to know if the sound was DCC on board ( and what sound decoder and project it was) or if it was external sound.

Wonderful advert for the Garratt ( wonder where the sound is from?) and Richards Powerbase system.