Hal Nail

True but presumably there wasnt much they could do about that! that was my original quote but i merely took it to mean all suppliers paint had to be consistent.

Are the buffers separate units plugged in? I'd want the thicker type for my wagons but already have loads of unused Accurascale spares so would be tempted to buy these with oleos and whip those off for my spares box.

Given the visual compromises already involved, would a piece of fine wire soldered between buffer heads sort out the risk of locking?

Railtec do 3D shedcode transfers so you could easily change that if you cant find a loco to fit

Isnt that a 121 with the headcode box? These were blank (often plated over) by blue-grey era so that saves you a job! Mine is blue but still wouldn't have had the headcode in use alongside my dominos locos but I might bend time a bit as prefer the look with a code showing. I think destination blinds were still used later on, although from photos they often didn't bother with them either!

Someone earlier (page 99 ish) said theirs was pulling 30 wagons so suggests there is a specific problem with yours?

Completely off topic but I went to Canvey Island to watch Concord Rangers last year. Takes a bit of getting your head around standing on the sea wall with water lapping one side and then the island 20 feet below on t'other!

If they did care, most people would probably just change it. I'm struggling to think of an easier modification (other than dropping it!) - Railtec even do 3D transfers if you dont fancy brass.

Glanced at them and thought something wasnt quite right. Then realised how much better Doctor Who would have been if the Tardis was a signal box!

Have you come across this? Has 2 spreads on Hither Green including one snap inside the shed with a bright red motorbike parked by the notice boards with 33021 in grey and 60019 in 1992.

Roughly as many as took any notice when told there was a nasty virus going round?

A well respected weathering pro, if not the best known, switched to acrylics having reported the impact on his health of breathing in solvents and using enamels. It would be easy to say ive been fine but that could just be luck.

maybe so but given we get reams of opinions, usually more tribal in nature than objective and generally proferred with little or no actual evidence (a view for which I offer no support whatsoever :)) it's always good to see some comparison pics.

Thats what I suggest he try above - i think our replies have been crossing.

It is strange. I've never had one coat of Halfords primer fail to cover completely to be honest. As an aside, how was superstrip? My impression from reading these forums is it works but is quite an expensive option. Is that fair? Edit: how about trying one coat of dark (eg blue) then one of primer?

this phrase could be applied to almost everything of course !

Is it the colour showing or the different layers of the original paint? Rubbing down with very fine (eg 2000 or higher) grade wet and dry will give you a smooth base to start with even if you dont fully strip the factory finish. I've removed a few home paint jobs and usally found the added layers virtually wipe off at the mere sight of ipa - so its probably a quick job to get back to where you started at least.

1451's top feed pipes finished off and front autogear and better pipes fitted. I'd started to make a front sanding gear cover when I noticed it only acquired that when the top feed was removed (most of the photos are after a boiler swap in '62 and I'd taken this detail for granted!). Will add a couple of little brackets missing on the model below the footplate plus the totems and then go to main weathering. Electrical conduits can wait - I'm keen to get happy with the main finish before I sell my spare lined green one.

Thanks all. My trusty faithful was about 25 years old to be fair I'm told a wet pad is worth making for acrylics but haven't tried it yet. Thanks for all the tips re brushes. I think my old favourites were just Beatties own or Humbrol but they were a cut above the average ive come across recently.

https://thetransportlibrary.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=165309&search=Nr.+Bodmin not quite as bad but bending of this nature crops up quite a bit in BR use as well.

Like it! This is somme-thing new to me tho I do have a Passchen for a good pun.

This could open up a whole can of worms! Its a totally personal decision really because we all recognise locos by different features and so may or may not like the models depending how well those bits are done. The 56 cab front just doesn't look right to me whereas I like the 37 when others complain about the sides! I would definitely try and see one in the flesh before buying.

Easily the most interesting facet of these discussions is how people can so authoritatively give completely contradicting answers!

Getting the various detailing parts together ready for an araldite session. PRC autogear, Shephard pipes and my own electrical covers. Plus one to remind me what im doing....

this is one of several saying the same thing. https://modeleng.proboards.com/thread/12822/br-dark-green-which extract below: "I'm sorry to tell you that whatever you have been told before, there is NO British Standard equivalent to British Railways Locomotive Green. There were actually 2 slightly different Greens.............Pre 1954 and Post 1954. They were originally referred to in the British Railways Standard as British Railways Locomotive Green BR Spec 30 item 34a for the Pre 1954 colour, and British Railways Locomotive Green Spec 54 Item 12 for the Post 1954 colour. As far as I know, the only source of the CORRECT BR Loco Greens, is Phoenix Paints, unless someone else has copied their colours. I was given original sample panels by the BR Surface Coatings Lab in Derby, to colour match for the company, and we supplied BR with all the paint for all the diesels that were repainted in the old 'steam liveries' colours, in the mid 1980s. The Phoenix numbers are P100 for the Pre 1954 BR Loco Green and P101 for the Post 1954 BR Loco Green. The difference is that the Pre '54 colour was the old Post 1945 GWR Loco Green that they adopted, and the Post '54 colour was just a little darker and a little Bluer. Pre 1954 the colours were only required to be approximate matches to the standard panel but the post 1954 colour was required to be a 'touch-up' match. This meant that all paint manufacturers had to guarantee that anyone else's BR colour could be used for touching up, so they were all identical after 1954."