jonas

1 hour ago, Crepello said:

Hi Jonas,

Just to clarify, do you discard the cab interior or re-fit it in some way as your photo seems to suggest?

 I junked the cabs. But with some filing you can refit them, as @yaxxbarlhas shown above.

 

Happy lowering! 

That’s a cracker!

 

It’s back! I had feared this layout had gone, after showing so much potential. Great to have you back - the scenic work is looking excellent!

Hey no problem! They were lowered by taking out the cab inners and filing down the tabs on the light boards, then cutting the tabs of the fuel / batter boxes and reattaching them. If you look through my blog I did a step by step with picture - I hope this helps!

It's the same livery as Railway Technical Centre, Derby, but I don't think it was used by the research dept. It lived at Slade Green EMU depot, in plain blue as 08600 for long enough, then painted in the red/blue livery possibly 1980/81 (see my photo from 1981/2ish at http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/gallery/image/57426-n33-0010-97800-ivor-slade-green/)and then got painted into Network South East around 1986, all the while allocated to Slade Green for shunting bits of EMUs and assorted wagons.

 

Yes you are right! I've no idea what made this one different and to why it was numbered in the 97xxx series, just to act as a depot shunter. Very strange! Love the livery mind.

Hi, the washes are added top to bottom, and then wiped off with a flat brush dipped in a touch of thinner after a few minutes - this process was repeated until I was happy! Really this just left some shading around the detail, although the cab fronts received extra attention.

 

The dulling down of the red was indeed something I’d hoped for, I didn’t risk washing the red with white (too pink) or yellow (too orange) to fade it though. I always use a matt varnish finish from a can - it’s probably the most important stage of the whole process to transform something from out if the box IMO - and two coats seemed to just capture the look I was after. It’s subtle, but looks nice in natural light, I’m glad you like it!

That's lovely!

It's good to have you back!

Thanks for all the ratings and the kind comments!

 

could you show a pictures of the modified contact board after you removed the material? 

Hi Markus, I'll try to get one for you next time the stock box is out. But it's basically just a case of removing the white painted sections. It means the contact board sits lower in the metal chassis.

 

Haven't had any problems with clearances on mine but then there's few curves on

Hi Pete, your work is awesome! I think there are a few methods to do this - I just picked what I thought was easiest after a disasterous attempt to move the bogie frames up a la Mercig. I know Farish have to cater for tight corners but can't help but feel the 37 is excessively high..it's not an issue I have with my Western or 24?

 

Looking at my 37 it all makes sense now which bits to modify. Thanks for the brake down. While we are on the subject of brake downs could there be a possibility of you running through you weathering. The 37's look so right with the colours you have used.

Glad it helped Adam! I look forward to seeing your completed model. These are weathered broadly the same as most of my stock - a mix of humbrol enamel black, dark brown and a touch of weathering powder mixed with thinner so it's about the consistency of milk. The whole model is covered, left for about ten minutes then carefully removed using a flat brush or cotton bud touched into thinners. Try and mimic the direction of real weathering, i.e. Tip to bottom of locos sides.Once you are happy give it a good blast of flat, matt varnish to kill any shine. Touch in he details and add powders to tastes. It's not very scientific but then weathering rarely is, Inhave found the more I do the more I get my eye in...so get slapping some paint around!

Hi there.

Could you spill the beans on how you have lowered these locos as it really makes a difference and i would like to have a go myself.

 

Hi Adam, thanks for your kind comment. I have posted a step by step in a new blog post - I hope it helps! Good luck!

Hi Simon,

Possibly! Although next on the list is a Coal sector machine as seen at Hereford Rail Day 1991 - 37239...

I was going to suggest DG!

 

Actually I thought they were Kadee couplings not Dapol - understood the need for practicality though...

 

I think the issue is with the NEM pockets which are proud of the bufferbeam. Tempting as it is to loo them off completely, I have seen people trim the Dapol to move it in towards the body, so I might try that. Once I'm committed l will fit snowploughs but I'm waiting to see what's I've got to fix them onto first!

Looks fab

Am not big on the couplings but that's just me...

 

Thanks! I agree with the couplings...to a point. I'm giving the Dapol couplers a go for practicality as I want to be able to do some shunting when I get around to building my layout. I tried DGs a while back and didn't get on with them. I'm always open to suggestions though!

Thanks David! I've been practicing hard and have found a consistent standard which I'm pleased with. The trick now will be to apply it a whole layout...!

Glad to see this one is still going! It's a really atmospheric piece of railway to model in the time period you've chosen, run down steam era infrastructure visited by a traditional branch goods, grubby blue locos - top stuff.That Cartic looks like top work too.

SFA ok!

I just love this layout! So inspirational.

Thanks!

 

I seal them with varish after using the oils - you have to be careful not to be too abrasive with the brush or cotton buds when your wiping the wash away as it can remove printed details if you aren't careful though! But a bit of care and it's no dramas.The varnish coat gives the powders something to 'key' onto as well, I find.

 

I actually added another JNA to this rake last night

Thats a very good idea Jo, just enough to show they are working wagons but running empty. Cheers! The coat of purity seal varnish really helps tone down the finish too, I think.

:-)Thanks!

That paint effect is brilliant. Basically the opposite of a wash over the loco colour with grime coloured paint. Really effective!

Wow! The sound really adds something. Top work. How was the install?

The bogie should pull out and clip back in the other way round

 

When I looked at the picture I couldn't quite place what looked odd, Now clipped back in - d'oh!

Thanks Jez :-)

I'll be interested to see what you do about crew. I've a 57xx looking deserted and I didn't like the look of the farish blokes!