John Tomlinson

Indeed, something we need more of in our hobby. On that subject, I came across a pair of Lima 47's over the weekend, bought new for around £20 each in a Beatties/ Modelzone sale ages ago. One is in the Porterbrook livery, the other the Royal Claret. Been in a stock box for years, but both ran perfectly when placed on the track. Good shape, nice livery application (except for the yellow bits which are unpainted plastic), and no need for this digital sound malarkey either. No sticky out handrails, and ripe for a bit of upgrading. TTFN, John.

Thanks for this. I thought I saw one of your kit built examples with the long smokebox, as you say it makes for variety and interest. Let's hope their range carries on and expands. I was pretty impressed with the build quality, and the fitting of proper brass bushes to the axles that clip into the chassis sides is especially welcome in giving quality smooth running. John.

Having followed your two threads for a while now, I came across one of the Oxford Rail J27's (BR versions) on Ebay, and for a modest sum made a successful bid, as much as anything to judge for myself the quality of the model. I have a couple of their wagons, but no locos, and it's always interesting to inspect a manufacturer's efforts for the first time. I was a bit put off at first running, as the loco stuttered and eventually stopped altogether! A quick skim through the Oxford Rail thread revealed issues of pickups often needing adjustment, and once on my bench in bits I realised as well that there was a decoder fitted, often as we've discussed before a negative on a DC setup. Anyhow, one blanking plate later, pickups adjusted, some weight in the tender and scale couplings in place, I have real belter of a loco! The exercise got me reading the relevant sections of the RCTS Green Series, so I now feel a bit wiser on the subject of North Eastern 0-6-0's. Presumably I'd be right in thinking that, as yet anyway, none of the offerings from Oxford Rail are of the long smokebox variety, as fitted originally to superheated locos, but kept by a few examples after the superheating was removed? Many thanks, John.

It's ironic that the first two (?) batches of Bachmann 37's didn't have separate noses and so avoided this problem. IIRC the later ones also had noses that are a bit long to enable the light fittings to go in. I have the Thornaby pair 37501/502 from this later batch which look very pretty indeed, but the lights IMHO are quite silly and unrealistic. The problem with the early ones is that the noses are too deep/ tall. It is possible to correct this, and to raise the buffers by around 1.5mm, which greatly improves the look. I've done this on two of my four examples, but it is a bit of a faff. John.

I watched the Hornby Magazine video, which I thought was excellent and very informative, but nonetheless came to the same conclusion as you. It's one thing to study a stationary model in detail, another to see it running around a layout at a normal viewing distance, and it's really the latter I'm interested in. No doubt in my mind that the new model is splendid. For example, although I wasn't a fan of NSE back in the day, the detailed livery application on that example looks magnificent and I doubt if even the most professional and skilled individual could match that quality. Each to their own. I've around eight (or maybe more?) of the originals, all detailed up on the buffer beams and with changed identities, and they'll be staying - for now at least! Obviously if I were starting out now it would be a different story. John.

The same chap, David Ford, also has this rather nice view of a 108 leaving the north end of Blea Moor tunnel, one doesn't see that many pictures of these with the small yellow panel. As before, click on pic for details.

Coincidentally I came across this snap on Flickr yesterday of a 113 on the S&C, heading towards Carlisle just north of Dent station. Sadly not mine! Click on pic for details. We can't be sure, but presumably one of the East Lancashire ones that had strayed a little. John.

Thanks for this - I obviously should put next year's Lincoln Show in the diary! The unit looks a very nice job indeed. I'm glad you're on top of the details about the transmissions! John.

Are you going to tell us about the class 113 please, looks very nice indeed, with the huge headcode box? John.

Indeed, although probably earlier than that. My headmaster had been at King's in the 1930's, and like many at the time was a Marxist. I do recall as late as 1974 him telling us with a completely straight face, that Mao's China had not experienced any famines after 1949 thanks to the benefits of the new system. Ahem!! John.

Excellent Ray, good to be able to read about the whole project in its different facets in one place. John.

Quite so, or more precisely something that should have been "day to day" spending (i.e. revenue expense), but arguably has rather negligently neglected for several years. By guess who! For a Govt. headed by a finance specialist to spin this fiction is IMHO nothing short of a disgrace (probably not allowed to say that). John.

Presumably the fluid can be used again? John.

My answer to the questions you raise are the same as yours. Inside valve gear is a nice thing to have, but not essential, and for those so minded cobbling a representation together shouldn't be a big problem. My answer in 7mm might have been different, everytihng being more visible, but in 4mm on a working loco a rough representation would do me just fine. John.

Many thanks for this. It will be something else to keep an eye on in my searches on ebay! Googling "Alexander Q7 kit" I was referred to the first page of your layout thread and a photo of your 63464, going back over some old pages that's quite a selection of kits you've built over the years!! John.

Although I'm not a North Eastern modeller, I've long had an urge to build a Q7. What a beast! I wonder, do any of you have advice on a kit, I know DJH did one but it is one of their earlier efforts and appears no longer (for now) available. Many thanks, John.

Forgive my cynicism, but I note the report was commissioned by HS2 Ltd., and prepared by Arcadis, one of the projects contractors. So not exactly independent! I'm always dubious about these sorts of reports anyway, independent or not. How much of the supposed "extra" investment and growth has simply been lured from elsewhere? Answer, we'll never really know, but as with Freeports the answer seems quite possibly a lot. John.

Doing the whole thing does give a much better end result. I've gone through just the same thought processes in the past, the part change only just leaves a jarring effect every time you look at the loco. Makes you wonder if anyone truly knows the correct size for these, with the main RTR manufacturers, HMRS and Replica all being a bit different! John.

I'd always thought that ultasonic baths can be harmful to plastic, and the Lima wheels are insulated on at least one side with a plastic bush on the axle. You might get away with it, but tread carefully! John.

Pretty sure this happened to me with my Peco code 75 and Woodland Scenics ballast/ PVA - it was however some time ago. It really isn't a problem. I too used a polishing block a few times to get a nice shine, now I just need a wipe with a rag impregnated with Slaters Track and Mechanism Cleaner to remove any oil or grease, from time to time. Use the polishing block along the direction of the track, not across, to avoid scratching, and obviously don't overdo the pressure. John.

I found the same drawing in the Irwell book by Tibble on these locos. As you say, the taper isn't much, but it is there. Similarly, there's a taper at the front from around the raise in the running plate, towards the buffer beam. FWIW the DMR kit (I have an unmade one) refers to a slight taper in the bunker, and the running plate shape corresponds to the GA drawing at both ends. John.

Up to you, but if so then why is the rearmost part of the running plate under the bunker not parallel to the more forward parts? John.

Yes, it is rather splendid! However, look at the perspective along the running plate, specifically that under the bunker compared to the rest further forward. Seems to imply to me that the bunker did taper in a bit going towards the back. John.

If you've got the bogie sideframes off that should be enough to clean the wheels, without further dismantling. Turn it upside down in a cradle or on a soft surface, then apply power to a pair of wheels and use a cotton bud soaked in cleaner to the other wheels. If the alloy of the wheels is deeply tarnished you could try holding a very fine piece of emery paper, or something like a Tamiya sanding stick, against the wheel treads as they rotate, in order to make a start, but go easy! John.

Some of the Wills kits expressly have Body kit written on the box, and state that a chassis is needed. If this is the case with yours then I doubt if you have a claim. It would be complete in that everything to complete the body is present, rather than bits missing. John.