richbrummitt

Bravo. I note that the etched padlocks do not come with either etched keys or etched bolt-croppers.

Those samples look really good. What axle length is used, and what angle the points? I’m sorely tempted to acquire some but would like to know if any of the 2mm Scale Association wheelsets are a straight swap before I spend more than £60/3 wagon. The time saved needs to be worth the investment for me.

Canvas not shown and/or no note to add canvas = no canvas required or fitted? If vans are showing it and cattle wagons are not that feels conclusive.

Beetles were reclassified 1926 according to Atkins et al. I found this out after I painted my W7s Brown and lettered them 😭 Ian subscribes to the red livery for goods wagons so…

Today I was at Abingdon exhibition (very good imho) and say some friends whom I see infrequently since moving South 20+ years ago. An interesting question arose as to which companies put canvas on the rooves of their cattle vans. My friend is making a train of cattle wagons from various companies and has found that some (NE) did not bother with the canvas for goods that didn’t mind being wet and he was wondering whether to scribe the rooves for any other companies.

The springs for the centre wheel set are different in that the J hanging parts of the assembly are perpendicular to the long axis of the vehicle and go under and seem to go behind the solebar. I expect they would be early candidates for replacement oil boxes, given their use.

It looks great now. A bit of wear and tear and final detail makes a big difference and it’s truly yours! As occupants were charged premium fares they got to travel in passenger trains. At least some of them for some of their lives were lettered to only travel in passenger trains. A much more interesting addition is to have a red vehicle in a passenger train! Re. Disinfecting: We could use the instructions from early rule books and their GAs. However I will send you some images of W4s from around the (previous) turn of century.

I’ve had a look on the Brassmasters website. The component breakdown is pretty much how I’ve done recent prints of my own. They should be really good. The fact they are Midland means that many people could use them.

I’m of no renown, that I know of, but work in 2mm and am I’m interested to know more. Is there some further info somewhere or must we wait?

Brilliant. Though those open top carriages will never catch on.

Do Rapido mould or print their wagons? Having done the exercise to produce most of the various iron bodied ‘minks’ of the Welsh companies I know it’s not a big effort to modify a CAD model once you’ve done one style. Some of the differences are subtle but TV bodies are quite obviously different due to the increased length. If a manufacturer is committing to mould tooling then it makes more commercial sense to only have one tool and hope to sell more by offering a choice of livery even if it is then imperfect as a whole.

I think it depends. If you want one then it can be quicker and easier to go by hand. If you want more than one or your item has a lot of repetition then the computer and automated tools will probably save time. Having said that I agree if you are inferring that it is our hobby time and it is for us to choose how to spend it. There is also the question of robustness. Thin parts in plastic from a printer are not robust like metal and metal printing is (and should remain) the preserve of properly equipped facilities with adequate extraction and safety equipment in place.

A few were vacuum fitted for specific purposes and those had screw couplings before instanter couplings came to be. Atkins et al. says one lot was built with screw and instanter couplings and it seems as a mixed bag. Looking again I think these two could possibly have had three links still in my early 1920s period.

After too many years I’ve finally got around to fitting sandboxes in the verandah of some toads. Along with sanding lever the sand boxes are quite visible even with the roof in place. When I started these models I would have thought to whittle them from brass stock and a turned lid/handle but more than 10 years on I’ve drawn and printed plenty in the same time it would have taken to fabricate them. I haven’t bothered with all the operating linkages because they are far less conspicuous. I do need to decide whether to fit straight (wet) or dry (curved) delivery tubes below. I only recently discovered exactly how the lamp irons for the sides were meant to be folded up and unfortunately these few remaining pieces have gone missing during the last 10+ years. Does anyone have enough spares for 2 AA3s?

Just off my workbench when it was warm enough to paint recently! One of these already found a home at Modbury as a thank you to Ian for allowing my use (and subsequent abuse) of his cattle wagon files for printing. Those for myself will be grey rather than red.

A saw rather than a knife would be my recommendation. Or avoidance tactics and hide the magnets in a barrow crossing.

Ordinarily 0.010” / 0.25mm nickel silver sheet is used. Wagon sides should be a little thicker ~0.5mm is approx scale thickness, depending on prototype.

Like Jim I put the crossing polarity micro switch at the toe of the switch. (My frame is not wire in tube)

It should last a long time. I drink less than I did and I don’t go near to your house on a daily basis. There are however three more in various states of emptiness (this vigneron does all her desert wine in the same size and style bottle) so more are available we would just need to arrange a delivery/collection.

That picture shows the pipe through the footplate clearly.

Good spot. I’d forgotten from when researching my model (still unfinished from a few years ago) that front steps were a ‘modern’ figment.

That first photo looks almost real, the low angle and, the way it’s lit.

Would there be slabs other than where the building was?

There should be a pipe from the pipework in front of the cab - injector? Running straight down through the footplate. Might be an idea to print the toolboxes separately because they seem to change position on a per loco basis, if you plan to make them more widely available. The radius on the base of your boiler fittings - safety valve cover in particular - look odd. Have you used a radius/round tool?

@ShadowinLinby has been asking @Laurie2mil the same question for many months.