richbrummitt

The nearer one with GW is a newer style than the one on the tilt wagon. Much more detail in the appendices of GWW, 3rd ed, which tells us the newer style appeared from ~1903.

My comment was intended to relate to the thatched plaster cottage rather than the row. I thought I saw an entrance facing the lane.

I think the cottage looks odd because of the bank that has to be scaled by any occupant wishing to get to it.

I’ve found some quick change tool posts for watchmakers type lathes. The one linked below comes with a ‘device’ that looks like it has a bearing each side of the holder. What I don’t understand is what is it for? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/364471781304 If I don’t need it I could get one of their cheaper sets without this part.

You’re in luck: The RCTS locomotives of the GWR volumes have recently become available as print on demand in three parts.

Results in this thread speak for themselves. I continue to have issues with distortion when a roof or floor is included or on anything with windows/openings. Would you mind sharing the details of your supporting frame, supports and print orientation?

Maybe. I’ve done the Welsh ones too, but no Cones.

There are various shortcomings of the association body. The one I built got worked up into a GPV. I since created printed versions of iron Minks based on the information in the book on the subject that will sit much better against the resin body Minks the association can supply.

2012 it was. Amazing how time flies! I’ve done a few re-runs since, most recently this last year. I have a few in hand if you’d like a pair PM me.

I’ve see them for sale on Wizard models stand at shows. They might have been Bill’s. The one I have is half the size (being a 2mm modeller) and from a different source. Occasionally I need a long handrail and I drill a piece of etch surround to suit a specific size. No need to judge the length though: I bend as per a handrail and then hold each bent end in pliers (including the bend) and twist until the ends are 180 degrees from each other.

I use a handrail bending jig to get hangers the same length. If the holes they are subsequently inserted into are drilled in line and parallel to a datum then the footboards should be parallel to the rails/ground when added.

Yes please. 😆 They are a way down my own to-do list.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news: I think there is an issue with the sides on this kit, unless LMS wagons had provision for a partition at both ends?

I agree with the comments above regarding the change in appearance. Before ballasting though? I’m curious - having only got to such a stage on one serious layout ever - as to your reasoning. I’d presumed to paint the track and cross then ballast to ‘finish’ that area before working more widely to complete the surrounding landscape.

I found the same problem with various lettering for ventilated and ventilated van. I intend to make a fair number so had some made custom from Fox that did fit, including squashed numbers to go on the ends of wagons where the sheet supporter forces them to one side. Not worth it for the odd one or two. I go freehand for that using a brush with at least 4 zeros on it.

Does it depend which side one is viewing though?

Are you familiar with this website? http://fs160.eu/

Somewhere on here there is/was a good picture showing lettering of wagons including company initials being added to wagons where guide markings had been pounced. You have probably seen it already and I, unfortunately, cannot find it right now. I believe smaller/script lettering, such as tare and permitted loading weights, would have been completely freehand. So templates for company initials (and other large forms e.g. some numerals)?

I bought green (medium weight) king size Rizla. They measure 97x55mm. The gummed edge is along one long side, which reduces the area to 97x50mm and you’d have to be super accurate of your placement to use all that so not much use in scales 4mm upwards. My next sheet attempts (and I have the wagons built and painted ready to take them for over a year but no roundtuits) will be water slide transfer paper onto some thin lead foil I was gifted. Don’t hold your breath for the results.

I printed my tarpaulins sheets on cigarette paper using an inkjet printer. Technique involved understanding the orientation of the paper in the drawer/tray compared with the output. After printing onto A4 paper cover over the printed area with the cigarette paper using just the gummed strip at the leading edge of the print then put it back through and it should print over the top where the cigarette paper is. Cigarette papers are available in various sizes. What I’m not sure of is whether the largest (extra large?) would be wide enough for 4mm dimensions.

I’m using just the servo board (12 servos) from them. The switching is done from a lever frame with microswitches. For someone who is a bear of little brain when it comes to electronics (although I can write code) I’m happy to spend a modest sum for an easier life. I appreciate that for others the control electronics is an area they enjoy investing time into.

What does the notice above the buffer say? It’s blurry on my screen. Maybe BRITTLE GOODS and below ????? CARE.

Easy to do with Brio and other children’s toys (where the trains are much longer than the curves they are travelling along) as well. I have played with making brake vans heavier or ‘sticky’. It helps to avoid wagons hunting but too much weight and maximum train length is impacted as you alluded to in your point 5.

The Mathieson wagons, are in my opinion, the best RTR of the type but expensive now and only one type of body moulding ever available for side and end door. The new PECO look like they might have body mouldings for with and without but I’ve not looked at any close up. If you have the ability to use @Sithlord75 files for printing in a resin printer I think they are best. Lots of choice of body styles and properly thin sides if you want that (and why wouldn’t you).

You must be glad you did the roof properly!