richbrummitt

A long time whilst nothing happens again. I’ve been busy with life outside the workshop and what modelling time there has been has been re-learning 3DP for a particular set of files. When I first bought the printer I got a litre of resin and the expiry is soon so I have been trying to use it up. A small amount of progress towards further testing has been made. Anyone can spot that the rail between the toe of the switch and the edge of the world is far too short for testing. Those people who saw a short video on either the ZAG or NMAG meeting where I shared it will have seen an 0-6-0 being held on by the hand of god. I didn’t think of this when I cut the board out but have screwed a temporary fiddle yard board onto the end, threaded some track and glued it down with careful packing to match the existing rail. I filed up the remaining parts required to finish the TOUs for the catches whilst the glue dried. A few minutes with the soldering iron will see the electrical connections made when I get the chance.

Now for pictures. the sides bow out a little sometimes, see around the top of the drop flap, and the top of the ends are a bit wibbly. Printing with an inclination on the long axis may or may not fix the ends but the sides might still bow out. (I think the latter is happening when I de-sprue the top of the sides - above the windows - which I’m doing on the green part.) It’s something that I will need to look into for the future for coach bodies but more trial and error there to use thinner layers &c. &c.

An update on this: One super helpful forum member (they know who they are) contacted me by PM and really helped me focus with the troubleshooting with some great suggestions and support. They also went to the trouble of test prints on their printer, which proved that it was possible. My first problem was that my settings did not copy over from Chitubox 1.6.5 to 1.8.1 successfully and I needed to reduce my lift speed. That stopped the model separating from the supports where they were adequate. Previously sliced files printed okay so it was hard to suspect the printer but I dutifully checked everything with that. It turns out that the sacrificial parts are not required. More supports, particularly at the corners, made all the difference. I have still not got a perfect result but I have got to something that I am going to accept. I still get some distortion when removing these prints from the build plate whatever I do with the bottom layers so the 'silver bullet' is to cure the model on the build plate sufficient to separate it from the supports without flex, before removing the raft and leftover support structure. The horizontals are then horizontal rather than slightly banana-esque when viewed along. I damaged the most recent prints removing them from the supports in this way (so no pictures because they went in the bin already) but with more care I know it is possible to do.

I will retrieve it at the weekend for you. Please let me know your address by pm or email.

I recently found a 5522 models etch for a D1720 (if I remember correctly) BCK in a box of R-T-R 4mm wagons. This is a period II vehicle according to a website I just looked at, so likely not much good to Jerry based on his request. Is anyone else interested to build it?

Not telegraph poles but I've some of their signals that are now around 25 years old and the plastic has changed with time. They are now quite brittle where they were once 'wangy'. Perhaps I should have painted the whole post and not just the bits that needed to be black!

That is one way you would often make use of them. Essentially you draw curves/shapes as sketches or 3D sketches and use those to drive the geometry. Sub-divisional modelling is a whole separate area but SolidWorks desktop does not do that natively. There was an announcement at SolidWorks World 3D Experience World this year that a version of SolidWorks for makers is planned at a price point of something like ~$99/yr, I think it was, due within 12months. I guess for that you get the software (maybe only the online versions - xDesign) with zilch support, except the community forums, else there will be a lot of companies wondering why their price point is orders of magnitude different.

I suspect we are a similar age. I'm sure most drawing boards were discarded, burnt or otherwise disposed of in the very early years of this century, if not before. I learned to draw with a pencil and squares and it does give you a proper appreciation of the how, even when you use a computer, to create a 2D drawing. They do seem rather outdated now most people are working in 3D and take a disproportionate amount of time. I do wish we could do away them but MBD* is not gained wide enough acceptance, yet. Amen! I finally bought a car with more than 4 cylinders last year (a V6), whilst I still can, and I'm happy. There are a lot of electronics in it though. I would want any electric car I am forced to have to drive itself and I guess we're 5-10 yrs away from that being mainstream. The way of the world. Do you really think the rest of us are doing any better. Some differences here is that you have said you are being honest and you show the failures too. The weighbridge looks to have come out well. *Model Based Definition.

That’s the kind of fiddle yard I could manage to create from what’s in my stock boxes; all wagons, no engines.

Dredging this thread rather than keep starting new ones. Thanks to help received up thread I’ve been much more successful. One big change was getting a wash station (Anycubic wash and cure). I would say that it is essential to my workflow and that people getting a resin printer budget for this or something similar. I recently updated to chitubox 1.8.1 from 1.6.5 (I think) but I wrote down all my settings first and set up a new profile with those. A couple of defaults have changed and some new settings. Light delay 7/8s where I previously had 0. I know what it is but not how it affects prints. Also: Anti aliasing by default is now 4 and motion blur 2. Again I’m unsure what effect these would have. I was happy with my prints before. I changed with an expectation of better auto supports but I don’t see them. Since, I’ve been trying to print a cattle van. I have some effects that I’ve been working to eliminate. The main problem is to keep the solebar straight. The view from the other side if the same model is not the same. I added a plinth several mm deep but that seems to have it’s own issues, which is weird because a van with a similar structure prints okay. The van is inverted so the curve of the roof means that the layer transition is not supports to everything at once. Even so the distortion seems to be more pronounced here than I think it should be. Another view shows the plinth details. The bracing would improve stability during cure.

Wow. IMHO That is awful. I'm glad I'm not working in 4mm.

I remember the ‘dragon wagon’ but not the name. A lovely gentleman owner the layout has too.

You could probably get thin ply suitably ripped through the bypass tray in some printers. No idea how well it would fair as a substrate for printing but paper is often made from wood so...

Both. I cobbled a 2-363 and something brake lever shaped that looked the right size with a part from a 2-361 that will no longer be possible to build as DC1.

These ones I am happier with. The others are in the bin to avoid getting mixed up.

The usual advice still applies: It's best if you can try to find photographs from multiple angles (at the very least one from each side of the subject) taken on the same occasion in the time period you are modelling. Or Stephen's version - apply a documented number that there is no known good photograph of...

2nd round of prints of axle boxes with springs. The gap between solebar and component has closed up (top) compared with the first (bottom) but version 3 will be required at least. My hasty updating of the CAD meant that there is an error in the change that I made.

The 1907 painting instructions say Red, Torbay, bright. Not sure when it changed and can’t remember when this layout is set.

They almost had axle boxes and springs tonight. Rather than solder some of the etched ones I thought I’d have a go at printing some of my OKF axle boxes with springs added. It will come as no surprise that the close to scale springs are not robust for handling in the elegoo standard grey resin. I printed a dozen and lost half trying to separate the support pins. These looked like the one in the photo missing part of the spring. Some were worse than this. The seventh was fine (I think) but lost on the floor somewhere. I found several etched chairs that I hadn’t noticed previously whilst searching for it. After that I got a few separated in succession using extremely gentle cutting. I don’t know how I would separate these fine parts with any success without the fine saw recommended by @Ian Morgan Some small adjustment of the spring height is required to reduce (hopefully remove) any gap below the solebars. As I said at the beginning “...almost...”.

I would like to think I would build my stash before I am in a box but at the current rate...

This is a W5. I’ve also done a couple as (different) W1. The W2 and W3 are shamefully still in the box.

It’s been a month since anything was added here. The last ZAG I spent most of the session ungluing my fingers using superglue to put the bars in the next vehicle from the rear of my target ensemble. Whilst I was at it I also did the other bodies of the same size (of which more anon) from a box given to me by @Ian Smith in exchange for a fistful of notes more years ago than I care to remember now. I’ve got the chassis together for it too now. Soldering is much more straightforward than using superglue. In a suitably Australian pose: and one the right way up: Some axle boxes with springs needed here. I’m going to have a go at printing them based on my previous success of printing OKF axle boxes. In the meantime I need to decide whether the slots in the ends bother me enough to do something about filling them up. They seem to have have got closed up fairly early in life, presumably to keep the line wash off the buffing gear.

I believe so. You’ll need the one for higher serial numbers (more expensive one). The earlier machines did not have the black splined part at the top like yours has, hence the difference. My usovo spindle was supplied with replacement bearings. However, the size was a match for what was in, so if you cannot get them out I would assume it will still fit. You will also need to find spanners to fit but these are a normal metric size - 17 or 19mm (can’t recall). I think you already realised that you need to buy any collets you want separately. I bought the few I knew I would use at a substantial saving compared to a set.

Mining villages would be rows and rows of houses? That was certainly how they were in Barnsley where I grew up (70 years later). The nearest to where I lived was two and a half parallel streets lined both sides with terraced houses. A pub could break the monotony. However in this example it was down the road a way at the junction with the major road and actually nearer to the next village.

M2 nyloc are available e.g. from here: https://modelfixings.co.uk/nuts.htm#metric nyloc nuts Loctite can be removed as long as you don't go for the strong stuff. 222 is a lightweight one.