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devondynosoar118

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Blog Entries posted by devondynosoar118

  1. devondynosoar118
    I have finally got round to sorting out some more little jobs. The first one was re-numbering and dirtying my Dapol 45xx. I got some Modelmaster brass plates that were great, and some fox buffer beam numbers finished it off. All that is left to do is sort out the disgusting rapido coupling and do the front and back dirty to match the sides. Any comments appreciated as I haven’t varnished it yet. The real 4561 continues to be on static display in one of the museums (Swindon?) but I am hoping for a return to the SW for it soon.
     
     
    Apologies for the lack of super sharpness all over but composite pictures are still a way ahead!
     

     

     

     

     
     
     
     
    The obligatory black and white shot.
     
     
    I have also now got all the trackwork on order to finish the station itself (hooray!) and only need the control panel and point motor wiring that goes with it to finish the nuts and bolts stuff. I have also begun construction of the flight cases for the boards to travel in which have been a monster job in themselves. Will put in a post on them some time as well.
  2. devondynosoar118
    Well, it has been a while since I did an update for Kingsbridge. I have not been entirely idle on this model, but progress has been limited to tweaking the track layout, adding length to the sidings, and trying to get the trackside structures done in case the sidings need moving before ballasting.
    With this in mind I bought the Ratio carriage shed kit, thinking of bashing it to resemble the corrugated structure on the branch. As soon as I looked at it I knew this plan was not going to work, the shed was too short for the B set and even with careful narrowing was not going to look right. Luckily I had a 3rd piece of corrugated roof and had bought some corrugated sheet before xmas. Thus as usual I was going to have to scratch build, despite trying to be lazy!
    The shell was made from Ratio sheets, cut to height then joined with carefully filed fillets to maintain strength and surface detail. As you can't really see the inside I haven't filled the small gaps left inside. I made the sides to length, thn left them to go off whilst I made the end piece, using the curve from the ends of the kit to get the shape where it meets the roof. The Ratio roof bits were narrowed then joined. Then I put the shell together and left it for a day to tile the kitchen.
    The legs of the shed are square microstrip, spaced from pictures by eye. All I have to do now is paint it, the siding it sits on is just long enough now I added about 100mm to it.
     

    Viewed side
     

    Inside- No roof joists this time!
     

    Side 3/4 view which compares well with the buffer stops pictures in books.
  3. devondynosoar118
    Wow, its been a long time since I did a blog entry!
     
    I recently decided to start work on Kingsbridge again, as it has been living in crates in my workshop long enough. Sorting through the spares box and rolling stock I came across a Python kit from Chivers Finelines. This was the second one I bought, as my dog, then young, had chewed the first one the minute it arrived on the door mat. I have since trained my excellent postman to leave the parcels somewhere else and trained my dog not to eat them!
    Why a Python? Well my layout is set in the autumn of 1943, when the Kingsbridge branch was playing a vital role in preparing the allied forces to land on the coast of France.
    This gave me the opportunity to model a variety of things that would never usually be seen on a quiet branchline in the prettiest county in England. One of those things is General Eisenhower's personal train. He used it to tour training camps across the country. I was keen to model a Python, as it had one marshalled in it, to carry the Generals own massive American car, naturally.
    Easing myself back into tiny N gauge models seemed like a good idea and this one was relatively simple! I started with the walls and floor,

     
    Next I fitted the sole bars and brake shoes.

     
    Reaming the holes out for the buffers needed my second smallest drill bit. There was some casting flash in a few pieces.

     
    The nicely scaled white metal buffers then went in very neatly.

     
    I decided to get the paint on too, starting with a black Citadel primer, then a dark brown base for the chocolate livery. I very much doubt there were any left in crimson lake by this stage, but if there were, then mine has been hand picked by the general's staff for its tidier appearance and more recent paint!
    The black under frame was given a light dry brush of dark grey to start the weathering process and show off the surface detail. Seeing it this close you can spot the moulding flash on the axle boxes which I missed, easily cleaned off with a sharp knife, which I shall do before finishing it.

     
    I then let the planking dry, whilst I had a brew. The next stage was to highlight the planking and lighten the brown at the same time.

     
    I competed the brown with a final highlight, then a coat of matt varnish in preparation for lettering etc later. Once that had dried (I helped it in the warming oven) I was ready to glaze the windows, with some clear sheet, bars added with a fine CD marker, not perfect but I was happy just to see them! Cruel close up...

     
    Now it was time for adding the roof, a grey Halfords primer and a dry brush with light grey, then white. The surface is now all ready for transfers and weathering, which I will do next time as I have to look at the detail for that and find my transfer stash.

     
    That left the General's Buick with a nearly finished vehicle to be transported in and reminded me I could still work with stuff this tiny.
    Thanks for reading. I am building up the courage and parts to tackle (after about 4 years!) the control panel of the beast.
  4. devondynosoar118
    I realised this week it has been over 10 years since I started this layout, which was a bit terrifying. Life has a way of making things take longer than expected and the model of the station building at Kingsbridge is no exception. Thanks to those of you who have been with me since the beginning and all the commenters along the way, you have all helped keep me moving forwards, even if the pace has been a bit non existent!
    Last time we left the building at the elevations stage, I matched the plans to my kit bash as best I could and tried to keep everything proper. I got through 3 station kits in total I think. With that done it was assembly time. 
    I needed to get all the dividing walls in the right place, Dad had done his best guess at the floor plan from site pictures and book research, so I copied that.
    I used the internal dividers from the kit and made the wider ones for the original  building using styrene sheet. I forgot to take any pictures until I got the roof on, I got a bit carried away.

    This is the front elevation, original building on the left, extension on the right. Windows and doors were from Churchward, Ratio and Peedie Models etches. Some came from the Ratio kit. I am not sure all of them are absolutely correct but I had no way of checking.


    Yard elevation. 
    Chimneys are modified from the kit ones. I wrapped them in Slaters stone sheets to match the real ones.
    The big holes in the roof are for the very tricky roof lights, which are a big part of the building. I used Peedie Models industrial windows etches for these, plus some scrap from the station kits. I thought about the side louvres and decided only a maniac with binoculars will see them from viewing distance. Here are the etched parts soldered up.


    Next I made a surround and added some plastic at the ends, which hid some shoddy fit and made them a bit more rigid. They are a shade “heavy” vs the prototype but it was a compromise.


    I couldn’t resist dragging the platform out of storage to test fit everything.  I think this is looking about 80% like the real location, it is a bit further back from the platform edge than I would have liked but if I bring it too far forward the bay platform will be too far behind the table end, which will not look right. This is a result of me not thinking about the station area as a whole model when laying out track, it was the first (so far only!) station I have ever modelled and the mistakes are legion. It was also the second baseboard I ever made.


    So there it is, somewhere for passengers to alight at last.
    Next will be painting, I have already finished that IRL since I stayed up til 2am the other night working on it!

    So what are my future plans? I really need help with the back scene now, I need a 600mm high one about 12 ft long in total and have photos to use. The new Peco modular one is quite good for Devon hills as an alternative. Any thoughts on who could print me a photographic one?
    I also intend to put the whole layout together to make all the board connections and get the second station board working, which needs a very large space for several weeks.
     



  5. devondynosoar118
    I have finally got the back scenes on, but not glued permanently. Aside from one or two spots where I need to put some strengtheners i.e. on the joints and ends of curves, I think it has worked out quite well.
    Here are the 2 station boards.

     
    Its made a big difference to how the layout flows, now its on to track weathering and fixing, plus wiring the bus and point motors!
    I might even get to start the engine shed thanks to help from you all with the measurements.
  6. devondynosoar118

    Backscene

    By devondynosoar118,

    Just a brief update, further to discussions about the backscene, this is a picture of the test one on the scenic board.
    This was an offcut of hardboard I found at work. Its 15" high but I may have to cut this down a bit to fit the crate or make it removable.
    Has anyone done a removable backscene? This board is flat so should be ok as there are no curves in the backscene.

  7. devondynosoar118

    Backscenes 2

    By devondynosoar118,

    As the weather has been sunny this week I have finally got the backscenes done for the first few boards. They will be sent to a printing co. for finishing to the right size, 18" high, 2 curved fixed and 1 straight removable piece of hardboard to form the structure.



  8. devondynosoar118
    Well I got time this week to paint up the shed, here are the results with a brief pictorial stroll through the process.
    Having started with a black undercoat I put some rust tones randomly across the roof, looking at the pictures from the 50's.
     

     
    There are 2 brown shades and a dark metallic in there. I wanted some faint rust visible through the grey base.
     

     
    The base grey was put on with a heavy drybrush.
     

     
    After 2 lightening tones on the grey I put more careful rust marks onto the roof, following the bits visible in the pics.
     

     
    To blend them in a further 2 coats of grey were lightly dry brushed over the top.
     

     
    The sides were highlighted in grey, again with dry brush technique.
     

     
    Mud was added to the bottom, as the shed was next to the running lines.
     

     
    A black wash was put on, here still wet, to tone down the chalky look of the grey, deliberately streaked to blend in the muck layer.
     

     
    The finished item ready for varnish and then fixing to the layout, when I get the point controls, ballast and tidying finished.....
  9. devondynosoar118
    As it was my Birthday this month, celebrated by going to the WSR and visiting the Taunton members day (thanks Tim and team) I had some money to spend, so I bought a pair of GWR Conflats, in this case the Peco version.
    My reasoning was that in Autumn 1943 many local families were evacuated from the training area around Slapton, some of whom would have taken advantage of the railways removal service if they were travelling outside the local area. Service personnel from other areas would also be relocating to the area, either as a result of service dispersal or on postings, so I figured the Conflats would be quite common at the time my layout is set.
    With this in mind I set out making the containers a little more "worn" to reflect the fact that many would have been hard used in the period and unlikely to have been given much painting.
    The first task was to take the body and chassis apart, fortunately the Peco ones are easily separated by undoing the bolts on the chassis. If you break off the plastic thread they can be glued back later. This would enable me to spray the chassis.

     
    Next I "faded" the livery, I hate this part, it was very crisply printed. I used a scratch pencil and a small piece of 800 grit wet n dry to wear away some of the lettering.

     
    I cut off the ugly Rapido coupling and its mounting, as I will be using DG's as usual.

     
    I then primed the solebars and break gear black, with citadel spray, seen here wet.

     
    Whilst that was drying I washed the body with Windsor and Newton "peat" brown ink to shade the planking. I did the same to the deck and side plates of the Conflat wagon.

     
    I left the ink wash to dry fully, then drybrushed the black parts including the roof, with a dark grey.

     
    Once the ink had fully dried it was time for a stippled layer of brown dirt, done with a flat ended stippling brush wiped almost dry. I did this with the whole model assembled to unify the finish. It was nearly finished!

     
    As a final tweak I applied sone Tamiya weathering powders to add a little sooty grime and dull it all nicely, then varnished it all with Humbrol matt acrylic varnish. Here it is set next to the un weathered second model.

     
    Close up of the finished item.

     
    I plan on finishing off the Python from the last entry some time this month and get some more DG's to sort out the couplings.
  10. devondynosoar118
    I said I would update today, sadly no pictures- will add them to this block as soon as I can take them.
    So far-

    Controller has arrived- I can now test some wiring and scrimp for a decoder. The ballast is all laid on the scenic section and I added the finer cinder edges around the track. This was then dyed with black indian ink added to the PVA mix, which will form the basis for paint fx- Will try to illustrate this with my pics. The tricky join between the curved throat board and the main "yard" board is about half done- once final alignment is sorted I can begin to fix the point motors and build the control board. The final points for the throat are on order I have got most of the parts for the 2 main running lines to the station. I laid the lane surface with fine sand and ink dyed PVA Problem wise-

    Still haven't got the money for the last bits of trackwork and point motors Don't have a DCC loco for testing Have no scatter/ scenic material for scenic board Have not designed or built a fiddle yard Boards have no legs- Parts are there, will to wordwork is absent. None of these are insurmountable (I hope!) and I am generally pleased with the work so far. Will try and get some pictures Friday as I have to work tomorrow:angry:
    W***- It is a four letter word for a reason...
  11. devondynosoar118

    Engine Shed

    By devondynosoar118,

    Following a long and highly informing (for me anyway!) discussion on the forums I have now done the basic carcass of the engine shed. There is still some fettling to do, I have to put the smoke channel in, as suggested by Kris, tidy up the corners and put on the roof, as well as the roof lights. I am fairly pleased with the progress so far but any improvement suggestions are welcome.
    This is the front view which compares fairly well with the prototype. Some compromise about lintel height was required for loco clearance.

     
    The top view showing the purlins, the top ones will have to come off to make space for the smoke channel. Distortion from macro lens not wonky plasticard!

     
    Top view from the front

     
     
    Just a quick prototype view

     
  12. devondynosoar118
    I was able to get the landscaping finished today including the bridge area pictured in my prototype pics post. Have now completed all the plastering as well, so its onto track and wiring next (gulp!) Here's the pictures from today.
     
    all 3 boards together on temporary stands.

     
    Finished third board and unshaped second.

     
    View up the finished scenic board

     
    Plastering the second board having shaped the underpass.

  13. devondynosoar118
    I run a war-games club for young people and have done for 11years, many of them play Games Workshop's Warhammer 40,000 game, which has been around for over 20 years now. This is a good introduction to the skills and techniques of model making but has the added bonus of involving all sorts of fantastical creatures and the opportunity to batter your friends in a socially acceptable way at the games table.
    Recently I have taken in a few bits of my 2mm work to do whilst running the hobby table and many young people have said they have bits of train set at home or have friends or family with some. They also asked if you could combine this with Warhammer. I set to work, thinking of the best way to do it, we all had a good chat about what they wanted the railway to do and how we could integrate it into games.
    This has resulted in me promising them 2 4ft by 18" base boards, one for the good guys (the Imperial guard, no GM super warriors here!) and one for the Orks (good opportunity for stock that looks like it it's falling apart) on which they will work out a track plan.
    The key points are-
    DC to keep costs down
    Rod operated points.
    Only 2 electrofrog points max per board (costs cut as I am paying!)
    Kids to build all the stock, from RTR chassis.
    must match our existing terrain system- modular flat styrene boards textured and painted.
    So as things move along I will update the blog, hopefully with pictures.
    Link to Want Ad if you can help start off our stock
    http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/46266-any-0-6-0-or-similar-working-oo-chassis-and-wagon-chassis/page__fromsearch__1
     
  14. devondynosoar118
    I had to take a difficult decision today. Despite great patience from the exhibition manager I have reluctantly decided not to debut the layout over the May bank holiday.
    The reasons for this are:

    The station building and platform is unfinished The control system is not finished- all switching would be via hand of god method. I have 2 chipped locos, but key items of stock are still absent, despite offers of loans from Kris I feel I will not be able to do justice to the traffic in my chased time period. There is no fiddle yard. More alarmingly there are no legs! I will not get the electromagnets or couplings done in time The engine for the van to move the layout is sitting on the workshop floor!
    On the plus side I reviewed my list and I got about half of it done. The yard is now fully functional and I drove trains all over it today. I am sure this way I will have a much better display and a layout that I can operate more prototypically. I have been looking at computer control systems for automation as well. That I suspect is a whole new can of worms.
    I am a bit gutted, having never missed a deadline I have set myself before, however I can take a breath to plan developments. Perhaps Taunton in October or Truro?

     
    Thats all folks!
     
    Til next month...
  15. devondynosoar118
    Bloody hell, for the first time ever the whole layout minus fiddle yard is together, supported entirely on the leg units. Only took 11 years.
    As you can see from the thumbnail there was a degree of shock about this.

     
    All the boards. Each modular board is 3’6” long, with the two larger station boards individually sized.
     
    The classic view from above the signal box.

    Vs reality

     
    Side by side, I didn’t get quite the same angle, but close enough.

    Obviously there’s a degree of compression in play as well. I am very pleased with the flow of the landscape though.

    View uphill from the end of the modern  Montague Road, towards the top of Hurrell Road, the reverse of the view I showed last time. Further static grass growth is visible in the foreground.

    View from Hurrel Rd to Motague Rd, as before but with the Lime Grove under pass bridge visible. 

    Another repeat, fence arrived for here today.

     
    View from platform end, my view is more like you are perched on the locomotive water tower.

    “Drone shot” showing track re alignment and station throat.
    Shock

     
    My next challenge is to make it all work.
     
     
     
  16. devondynosoar118
    After 6 months of trying and failing to get anyone to make a laser cut kit from my Autocad files I have decided to take matters into my own hands and sort the station once and for all.
    I saw Ratio now produce a William Clarke style station building, which I thought might make a starting point for my kitbash. They also make an etched roof light, so I gathered my raw materials.
     

     
    This approach would surely meet with Mr Clarke’s approval as he was essentially an early proponent of design and build, adapting a set of plans for stations to fit multiple sites and local materials.
    The plans were drawn by my late father from pictures, maps and from photos I obtained when the station was shamefully demolished over a weekend. If people are interested I can put a link to the Autocad files in my next post.
    The plan was to get all the parts from two kits and cut and shut each elevation to fit the plans.
     

     
    I experimented with staggered joins and straight, I will go back and micro fill all the gaps before final assembly. I have used this technique before and with careful finishing it can be very tidy. The poly cement used for joining can also start the filling process. Be sure to put thin reinforcements on the back of joins over lintels etc and leave to set on a flat surface.
     
    Cuts were made with a sharp hobby knife, steel rule and patience, cleaned up with a needle file. After a short while the front elevation was nearly finished. We have most of the right door and window apertures, just not necessarily in all the right places...
     

     
    The rear elevation presented a challenge, since one half of the building is mostly windows. I did cheat a bit, the three WC windows are now one long oblong window. This side will be away from the main view angle and I think it looks OK. I considered scratch building the window section, then realised the doors were all in the right pace. I filled in the bottom with off cuts and will re scribe the bricks later.
     

     
    That means the whole of the original building, which is wider than the extension, is now done, I have the gable ends to make up, which will be done in plasticard with DAS clay overlay, to scribe the stonework in. At the opposite end the “extension” part which is narrower was the perfect width for the Ratio kit, I just have to buy one more kit to make the platform elevation.
     
    Work done I took the dog to the beach for a paddle. Which may or may not be upside down, depending on your hemisphere or personal orientation...
     

     
    Next time- “I love it when a station comes together...”
  17. devondynosoar118

    More Grass!

    By devondynosoar118,

    I finally got a couple of hours to play with the scenic board and both my grass machines. I have the WWS large one and their detail one, since they had a sale in summer. 
    Here is the back corner of the board in 2011, basic ground cover done. I always intended a strong mix of texture on the line side to reflect wartime manpower shortages. 

    I started by making a “shaggy embankment” mix, made of 1mm,2mm, 4mm and a few 6mm yellows to reflect autumn colours, there are 4 different shades and mixes in there, with regular changes of mix to add variety. I put this over a layer of thin high tack PVA.
    Here is the same bank from the bridge reverse angle, after the first round of grassing.

    I could have done with pulling the stalks of yellow up vertically a bit more as plants tend to grow straight toward the light, in this case it should be a bit more vertical but not visible from viewing distance.
    A shot of the finished line side. Some tidying with a small paint brush is still needed along the track.

    Spotters view from the bridge , now at the end of Hurrell Road.

    The parapet here can be seen in this Google Streetview shot. My photo would be looking down hill from the left bridge parapet. The railway goes left to right in this picture, the cutting having been filled in in the late 70’s,

    A view from the top of the hill, now the end of Hurrell Road.

    The main field grass is 1mm and 2mm in a variety of colours. I am waiting for some 2mm yellow/tan to arrive to do more scenic shading and add the dead layer visible in October to December.
    The same view today.

    Looking down the hill from across the bridge in the first photo. We are under the small stand of trees next to the original track which winds down the hill to the farm.

    The really observant amongst you may spot the frilly standard lamp that formed part of the stage set for Squeezebelly Lane, it’s lurking in the back of a couple of these shots.
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
  19. devondynosoar118
    Managed a walk along another section of line when it wasn’t raining. As I have been trying to push my compact camera a bit more lately I thought I’d do a few shots in B&W.
     
    Here are just a few pictures of the remaining bits of infrastructure lurking in the undergrowth.
     
    Crossing gate hinges
     

     
    Crossing lamp (red glass removed)

     
    Sleepers next to the track bed.

     
    Line side fencing

     
    Unknown post/sign

     
    Remains of the bridges

     
    Kris’s “Avonwick†bridge from the reverse angle.

     
    The beautiful brick arches

  20. devondynosoar118
    I thought it was about time I did some work on the real railway and through friends was directed to the South Devon Railway Association. The website is here:SDRA and the "fan" site is here: SDRonline
    I am currently working at Staverton Station with the excellent gentlemen of the Staverton Preservation Group and they put me to work on general maintainance duties. There are a huge range of jobs available, including PW and Singnalling as well as engine and stock maintainance, all through the Association.
    The Toad that will become the new staffroom, showing its newly fitted planking and steelwork.

    Collet goods 0-6-0 3205 with a down train

    The first crusty bit of paintwork for me!

    The up train, from the top of my ladder

    Todays hard work on the Toad's other side saw the planking caulked and fitted.

    The storage sidings after the PW crews shunting on Monday

     
    Thank you to all the regular Staverton volunteers for making me feel so welcome and I hope to bring you all more as I continue. Look out for the Diesel gala on November 6th and if you want to enjoy the SDR for less there is a special half price weekend on 30th and 31st October. Train Timetable SDR
  21. devondynosoar118

    Odds and Ends

    By devondynosoar118,

    I must apologise for my slow progress but house repair tasks have taken all my time at the moment! Progress on Kbridge since last time has been confined to;

    Wiring completed on the throat board and the ballast and yard surfaces laid. All the point motors were tested too and amazingly everything worked! Thanks to all those who contributed solutions from here. Backscene added to the scenic section- this is currently a trial size as I am unsure wether it will all fit in the crate I have designed yet, so I may have to make it a removable one on this board and fixed on the other 2. What is people's preferred material for backscenes? Mine has curves in all the corners so needs to be flexible. Started work on blending in the bridge arches and finishing the wing walls So not completely zero progress but slow. I will post some more pics shortly but in the meantime though I would share these from the Isle of Wight steam railway.
    WD austerity 0-6-0st

    Beautifully restored southern 4 wheelers

    Station and works.

  22. devondynosoar118
    Having come across lots of ways to do the electrofrog points dance, I was inspired to make these for our set up. The kids said they wanted it simple to operate, and I wanted play value built in to encourage them to really work as a team at exhibitions. This method is cheap at less than £1.50 a point and fairly simple to construct.
     
    You need-
     
    Brass strip, 25mm+ wide
    Brass rod- fairly thick, 3mm min
    Brass tube which fits over the rod as a sleeve.
    Soldering kit- if you haven't soldered structurally before this is a good practice project as the parts are cheap.
    Cheap sliding switches, 3 contact type, 2 power one common earth, small or medium. Medium are better for OO.
    If using a smaller switch- i.e. one that wont take being drilled for the rod, get some square section brass to fit over the switch.
    Some "chocolate block" screw terminal connectors.
    small self tapping pan head screws
    Araldite rapid or other 2 part fast epoxy
     
    This method assumes a feed has already been run to the frog. Wiring colours for me are brown/blue are bus wires (DC in this case, but capable of DCC operation as well.) red for the frog wires.

    Here is the general assembly.
     
    Start by forming the omega loop from a length of brass tube. It allows flex in the linkage and gives a bit of snap to the micro switch operation. I put this nearest the baseboard edge usually.
    If you need to join more lengths together, use the sleeve tube and join with solder. I work out the lengths of the operating rod, then prepare the support brackets. if you have a short run of less than 1ft, then the hole in the base board edge, 1 bracket and the switch will be enough to keep the rod supported.
    To make the bracket, work out the height you need to mount the microswitch off the baseboard, usually this is not much, less than 1/4" seems to be fine. This measurement should be from the base board to the centre line of the switch. Then mark the centre of your brass strip, mark and drill a hole the same dia as your tubing somewhere near the top. Measure down the same amount as the bracket height, scribe your fold line here, then measure another 1/2 inch or so down the strip, this is your cut line. Cut it and bend on the scored line to make your bracket. Sounds hard but isn't you are only making an l shape with a hole in!
     
    I then make the microswitch bracket, method the same but slide switches need a square hole, so some filing is required to make them fit and they are secured with tiny self tappers at each end. Mark and drill all holes before cutting and bending.

    Switch bracket finished.
     
    Now link it all up, take the omega loop, slide some tube on to the section where you want to put your support bracket. If you are using a big switch, drill a hole in it on the face that you would push i.e. not in the side! If using a smaller switch, drill a piece of square bar to fit the sleeve tubing and cut it off long enough to cover the switch.
    Line it up with the usual slot cut under the tie bar, and mark where the hole in the baseboard edge will go, drill it for the sleeve size and cut some sleeve to fit through, glue it in. Thread the rod thru, line up with the tie bar, then screw down the support bracket. put the sleeve in place and solder to the bracket.
     
    You are now ready to fit the slide switch to the rod too. Find the end, put the point in the straight ahead position, and put the rod through the hole in the switch or the square section slid on top of the switch if you are using small ones. Mark the mounting screw positions, then pilot drill holes and put the bracket in place. If you need the square brass on the switch DONT fit the switch yet as you will melt it when you solder, fit the sleeve into the square section and solder in place, then fit the switch.
     
    Here is where you need the epoxy glue. If you used a big switch, put the rod in the hole and epoxy in place. If you used square brass like me, fit it over the switch and glue. leave to set before testing the movement.
     
    Now the tiebar. If you have Peco style points with a hole in the middle, thread some brass rod down to the new mechanism from above, cut this length plus a few mm each end for tweaking. Bend the end that goes under the board thru 90deg, push the rod so that straight ahead on the point is up on the switch, clamp the rod to the point mechanism and solder it. you can move it around to get the throw right by soldering it in different places up/down the actuating rod.
    Then put a single choc block connector as a handle on the bit of rod sicking out the side of the board and you are done. These can be colour coded by wrapping in insulation tape.
    Make the electrical connections. Check your polarities, oif you get a short, swap the bus/power feeds over, not the frog wire.
     
    I made the mechanisms and the young people soldered them together, if you simply copy the picture you should get a working, DCC friendly solution for less than £1.50. Apologies about long winded explain! Points were cut and cross bonded as per Brian Lamperts DCC pages first. All works fine on DC, even with a dodgy Bachmann pancake motored american diesel.
  23. devondynosoar118
    Whilst reviewing my galleries I realised I had not updated the blog, so here are a few pictures of progress.
    We have got the second board and its track done, which I will update next time, despite the first version of it warping in the warm at work and me having to make it all over again.
    The young people have done all the plaster work and we have designed and built the building shells on the left from foam board.

    Overall scene,
     
    A view down the trench, towards the main gun emplacement, at the front, which has yet to have its cupola and gun added, and the half relief ruin at the back which we decided had been turned into an observation platform by the artillery, we will add a tower to the top for the observer.


     

    The loading dock, made by spraying textured paint over foam board, with thin strips of masking tape to make the joints in the prefabricated panels.

     

    View down the tracks from the fiddle yard.
     
    As you can see the building shells still need work, we have to add more texture and detailing, plus the gun emplacement needs to be completed. I am thinking of using the batteries of the Atlantic Wall in WW2 as design inspiration, or the Maginot Line as both have interesting shapes that might fit. All the controls for this board are done- I will take some shots of the point operating mechanism as it was very easy and cheap to build. It has had trains tested on it and all worked but it was tricky driving on it with such a short length of track.
    I have started the first loco, with the chassis and base plate done, but the young people are designing it, I sent them off to look up Clayton designs and the Panzerzug (google image search this if you don't know what it is!) for inspiration. More in a few weeks, after Taunton.
  24. devondynosoar118
    Having joined the 21st Century a bit more this month, with the heady speeds of fibre broadband arriving at home and a wireless printer scanner to go with it, I decided it was time to scan my only set of pictures.
    Some context- The station building was demolished some years ago over a weekend in slightly dubious circumstances, the site is still just empty (very annoying.)
    A friend happened to be passing and took these shots from inside the fence with permission. They show a lot of detail useful to modellers. 
    There is a degree of colour loss in these, they are scans of 10 year old digital prints! I have also included one of my dad’s beautiful sketch drawings, he made extensive notes on the back to aid me in building from his plans. The annotated part helps locate the canopy brackets and down pipes.






     

     
     
     

  25. devondynosoar118
    I got all the pictures done yesterday, as well as nearly completing the throat and testing my first point motor!
     
    This is the track, weathered, using acrylic drybrushing on the rail and chairs, followed by two ink washes, with the lineside grit/ash/mud done as below. Ballast was dried and seived grey builders sand I found in the yard.

     
    The lineside area, stage 1. Fine playsand dyed with ink and PVA

     
    Stage 2, Grey drybrush- Dark first, then light

     
    I felt this was too bright, so I washed it back with an ink mix to dull the gray and add some grime to represent mud and dirt in between the stones of the embankment top.

     
    Just a quick shot down the scenic board towards the station

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