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Blog Comments posted by devondynosoar118
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I put line side fences on that section today. It’s the easiest board to get finished, I think it might be not far from done now.
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I cheat on flesh tones, I paint them white then put a flesh toning wash on, job done. Vary the thinning of the wash or it’s tone for skin variation.
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Thank you. About 5 of those years it was just stored lol.
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Very evocative introduction!
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The site is still just empty, they did nothing with it. It was all a little dubious.
At least the pictures can help people reproduce it in miniature. I have the plans as well, I will put those up somewhere too.I am considering getting them made into a 3D printable model file as well.
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I just found a picture showing the end of the platform beyond the canopy was gravel not flagstones, so that will need a bit more tweaking.
Thanks all for the kind comments, keeping me motivated. I am working on the legs for the boards so I can get them all out and put together.
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Thanks Mikkel. I had a show deadline originally but as they are currently closed I need to think of a new way to make the last push.
Currently there’s a months work to get it running. I also need to design and build a fiddle yard.
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Thanks mate. It was motivation that was the problem! I need deadlines to make me keep going.
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I have used textured spray paints for roads lots of times, it’s also handy in the finer grades for simulated flat roofs on 60’s buildings.
It can be used to do yards as well, you can tint it with inks and paint or highlight it too. My Squeezebelly Lane thread has pics on how I did most of it.
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Great to see it out and about! It was the first 2FS layout I saw in person way back when it was at Taunton members day.
It’s even older than Kingsbridge, which has never been run, despite me owning the mother of all sheds.
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The DG couplings are great. I used a few tips from various places to get mine to work better.
Paint or blacken the fret before building.
Use jewellery wire in steel for the loop, which you blacken with a CD marker. Saves making it in two parts and two materials.
I only use the loops at one end, my loco has a latch only on the front then loop and latch on the back, all stock has the same, loop one end, latch the other. This helps reliability a lot.
Use the loop jig.
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I am doing that at two spots. Plus things like the notice boards etc can also help disguise the joins. The reality is you will only see them in extreme close up pictures, the building will be 3ft back from viewers at exhibitions, so I can live with tiny imperfections in the big scheme of getting the layout done!
Thanks for all the excellent suggestions and support, the next sacrificial victim in the shape of another Ratio station kit has arrived so I should be ready to do part 2.
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Straight, easier to do and you can re scribe the interruption to the brick courses after it sets.
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Thanks Kris.
Planning to finish the buffer stops end of the building this week, with roofing and more parts on the way to finish the other end.
I will put the link to the Autocad files up next time if people want them.
Hopefully it won’t be upside down.
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It shows up the right way here. I suppose that is exactly what an Australian would say tho...
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You will get more answers in the Q&A forum than in a blog post.
http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/forum/25-modelling-questions-help-and-tips/
Buying from the USA is very easy, just be aware that duty and the dreaded £8 “handling charge” is nearly always payable on goods valued over £15. Amazon.com is the simplest way to order from the US as they handle the duty at checkout and no more is payable on arrival here, unlike regular stores.
My solution to manual control switching is here- http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/955/entry-9406-point-operating-mechanism-cheap-and-works-well/
Costs less than that clever design.
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Airfix plastic is horrible stuff, I have tried before with several military offerings in the ope moulded ranges and never got anything to stick. The only thing I could think of that might work is Devcon Plastic Welder, which is EBay only but is very strong and might be worth trying. It’s about £10 a go though, you should separate both tubes to help mixing and keep it in a cool place.
Stunning work as usual!
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Top quality work as usual. Reminds me I need to get the back scenes for KB printed and on!
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This was timely, I am looking at my brass B set and deciding if I can face lining etc in 2mm. Interesting to see that the No2 set was in wartime brown, I am going for 1943 as my tine period, any ideas when the set was repainted?
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Glad to see this is still running! I too had a few years "off" with other things happening. Any plans to run more of your amazing scratchbuilt BR diesels?
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Thanks Mikkel. All I did with the backscenes was follow the contour suggested by the real scenery.
I ran some trains yesterday but there's still a few dead sections, probably a result of leaving the whole layout in a shed for 4 years!
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The original one didn't work in the end, I have remembered to leave the end third and the bay facing in brick not stone this time too!
The 3 main boards may all be getting together this month for the first time in 5 years.
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Well done. You can use hard wire cutters to snip point operating rods. That way you can do so in situ. I have a pair of CK electricians snips for that. Don't ever be tempted to use model clippers or rail cutters. Those rods are hard. Drexel works but makes swarf.
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Beautiful work as always. Don't beat yourself up over things like the roof join, as you know it will disappear when painted and you know what they say, "that's the way the cookie crumbles.."
That film was great. Notice the number of children working on the production line.
Choice of GWR carriages for GWR mainline
in MoonMonkey's findings and thoughts
A blog by MoonMonkey in RMweb Blogs
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Local traffic was handled by B sets and auto coaches, don’t forget “stoppers” on the mainline could be a pretty motley collection of usually non corridor stock. Also mixed trains with tail traffic and “brown” non passenger coaching stock should be included in passenger workings for variety and authenticity.
Livery wise you might have some stock in wartime all over brown, check the excellent sites linked by previous commentators. There were even a few old top lights about until the early 50’s.