7mm DJH Fairburn tank question

[sagaguy]

Been a while since i posted on the progress of this loco.Could i have some help from anyone please who has built this model.I`ve got to the stage of detailing the tank tops and i`m trying to work out the best way of attaching the tank lifting eyes.Do they fit into the slots on the tank top or bent and soldered into place?.The photos and the internet don`t really make this clear.

Ray.

Edited March 31, 2022 by sagaguy

[dibateg]

Hopefully these will help Ray:

 

 

 

Regards

Tony

 

 

[sagaguy]

Thanks Tony,with the aid of the internet,i discovered where they went.It`s nearly finished now,a few items to add,the weighshaft and lifting links will be added after painting,a job i`m not looking forward to as it involves stripping it apart.

 

                       Ray

[sagaguy]

Well,almost finished except for a few details. Got to take a deep breath to strip it down for painting but it may be a while yet.Now to think about the next one,may be a WD 2 8 0 or a DJH 9F.Nice thoughts to have though!.Looking for an injector now but not being au fait with them,i don`t know which to order.

 

                           Ray.

 

Edited May 18, 2022 by sagaguy

[sagaguy]

Just a bit of an update,details temporarily placed in the cab,making the wood floor was one the exasperations trying to make it fit,this was the third attempt after dealing with the ply splitting.

 

                       Ray.

[Blandford1969]

The model is coming along nicely.

 

For accuracy the brake valve is a brass fitting and was never painted also I'm not sure about the top of the Firehole doors ever being red. 

 

 

[sagaguy]

1 minute ago, Blandford1969 said:

The model is coming along nicely.

 

For accuracy the brake valve is a brass fitting and was never painted also I'm not sure about the top of the Firehole doors ever being red. 

 

 

It probably wore off in service,that`s if they were ever painted in the first place.It`s just that i liked the colour scheme,you can`t really see it with the cab roof on which is detachable.

 

                                 Ray.

[sagaguy]

Now that the Fairburn is being painted and transfered,photos to follow.l bought the 0 gauge 9f kit, i still fancy the WD 2-8-0 kit,up until now,there was a choice of two,the MM1 kit with a resin boiler or the Roxey mouldings model which has an etched boiler which has to be rolled by the builder.My problem is that i`m trying to decide whether to buy a 12" bending roll,not particularly expensive at round about £90 but will i get the use out of it.The MM1 kit is now not available owing to illness in the family so it`s Roxey or nothing.

 

                     Ray

[Rob Pulham]

Hi Ray,

 

I have the 2-10-0 version of the Roxey kit but I haven't built it yet so I can't comment specifically. I know that Tony Geary has built the 2-8-0 version which you will find on his Derby Line  thread. Starting Here  Sadly all the images are gone but they will probably be there on this thread on the Guild forum.

[sagaguy]

First side transfered and satin varnish.These are Fox transfers,extremly good but a nightmare to apply,i had to apply them in sections and need a lot of patience.I like to varnish them as i go so that i don`t damage them when i work on the other side.Railmatch aerosols are very good but,oh,those nozzles!.This finish nearly got wrecked because of splutering.The only way to treat these nozzles is to strip them down after every use and clean them in thinners and small drills,remove the yellow spray head with a pair of pliers,clean thoroughly and reassemble.Start the other side soon.

[sagaguy]

On 07/08/2022 at 09:05, sagaguy said:

Now that the Fairburn is being painted and transfered,photos to follow.l bought the 0 gauge 9f kit, i still fancy the WD 2-8-0 kit,up until now,there was a choice of two,the MM1 kit with a resin boiler or the Roxey mouldings model which has an etched boiler which has to be rolled by the builder.My problem is that i`m trying to decide whether to buy a 12" bending roll,not particularly expensive at round about £90 but will i get the use out of it.The MM1 kit is now not available owing to illness in the family so it`s Roxey or nothing.

 

                     Ray

Still thinking about the Roxey 0 gauge WD.It hinges on getting a set of bending rolls for the boiler.

 

                  I`m looking at thse from Chronos,

 

https://www.chronos.ltd.uk/product/slip-roll-machine/

 

They have  25.4 mm dia,rollers which i think will be small enough to roll the boiler sections.

                        Ray.

[Chas Levin]

The transfers look excellent! I found the Railmatch aerosol varnish extremely frustrating too - the actual varnish is excellent but you're right there's something odd about the nozzle. I must admit I gave up on them and binned them after a couple of failures, so full marks for stripping them down and cleaning them. I wonder why they keep using aerosol mechs that are so poor - others have had the same problem, reading online...

[Barry O]

Chuck the Railmatch rattle cans away. Hycoat Black ( satin, matt or gloss) is easier to use and apply. Halford is OK too. I gave up on railmatch years ago as I haven't got time to strip the paint off locos when the spray can delivers a dollop of paint.

 

Baz

[sagaguy]

Anything acrylic damages Fox transfers,it can and does crinkle the clear backing film.After spending a lot on transfers,7mm scale are not cheap,i can`t take the risk after hours of work of damaging the transfers so it has to be enamel varnish.

 

                          Ray.

[Barry O]

4 hours ago, sagaguy said:

Anything acrylic damages Fox transfers,it can and does crinkle the clear backing film.After spending a lot on transfers,7mm scale are not cheap,i can`t take the risk after hours of work of damaging the transfers so it has to be enamel varnish.

 

                          Ray.

I must be doing something wrong then as it hasn't been a problem.. although, I use a bow pen and paint for my lining in O Gauge.

 

BAz

 

 

[Rob Pulham]

An interesting discussion,

 

I never use anything but "acrylic" water based varnish (usually Ronseal) and I don't recall ever having a problem with Fox or any other transfers crinkling after application of varnish.

 

That said I do air brush it, it's not applied from a rattle can.

[sagaguy]

On 16/08/2022 at 12:50, Rob Pulham said:

An interesting discussion,

 

I never use anything but "acrylic" water based varnish (usually Ronseal) and I don't recall ever having a problem with Fox or any other transfers crinkling after application of varnish.

 

That said I do air brush it, it's not applied from a rattle can.

I suspect that Ronseal is not acrylic,i think it`s polyurethane which shouldn`t affect the transfers,it`s probably worth a test in the future.I do own airbrushes and a compressor so perhaps i should give them a try.

 

                           Ray.

[Rob Pulham]

Hi Ray,

The spirit based Ronseal is definitely polyurethane, but I was referring to the water based stuff (admittedly I didn't make that clear in my post). I am not sure what it's made of but being water soluble I worked on the theory that it's some kind of acrylic. 

What ever it is made of, I have used that and some water based home brand varnish without any issues of crinkling on transfers.

[sagaguy]

Right.that`s it with Railmatch aerosols,Tried three freshly cleaned nozzles,all 3 started to splutter on checking before i sprayed the loco.Out with the airbrushes,just ordered 50ml of Precision ready thinned satin varnish.Now a quick question,i have a fresh small jar of Railmatch satin varnish which i shall put through my airbrush,what thinners are used?.I have a jar of Humbrol thinners so i think that will be ok.

 

                              Ray.

[Chas Levin]

1 hour ago, sagaguy said:

Right.that`s it with Railmatch aerosols,Tried three freshly cleaned nozzles,all 3 started to splutter on checking before i sprayed the loco.Out with the airbrushes,just ordered 50ml of Precision ready thinned satin varnish.Now a quick question,i have a fresh small jar of Railmatch satin varnish which i shall put through my airbrush,what thinners are used?.I have a jar of Humbrol thinners so i think that will be ok.

 

                              Ray.

Hello Ray, I know Railmatch are one of those manufacturers who make a point of stating that you should only use their thinners with their paints (as do Phoenix Precision) because of the particular chenstry of their paints and associated products, so I've always stuck with that. But... there are plenty of people who say it makes no difference and who use plain white spirit on everything. 

If you're going to use something other than Railmatch's own thinners, I'd suggest white spirit though, as it's possible that Humbrol's formula is adjusted to their paints as is Railmatch, whereas white spirit may contain less additives.

 

If nothing else, different manufacturers use differing solvents to provide variation in drying times - I think we mentioned earlier that Railwatch settle out beautifully flat but at the cost of what I suspect is some kind of silicone or oil additive because it then doesn't like water-based varnish on top of it and pools repeatedly - so you might find that Humbrol thinners evaporate too slowly or too quickly for the Railmatch paint...

[sagaguy]

Latest on the DJH Fairburn,lined and satin varnished.I gave up on the railmatch aerosols due to the nozzles keep blocking so used a new jar of Railmatch satin varnish through an air brush.these aerosols are extremly expensive and practically useless,you cant afford to risk months of work with these cans.Anyway,now to strip the chassis for painting.

 

                            Ray.

[sagaguy]

Last jobs on the loco body,cab details.

 

                       Ray.

[sagaguy]

You may remember that here was something wrong with the geometry of the radius rod and the lifting arms.As etched,the arms were too long and fouled the die block.The holes for the weighshaft was below the centre line of the trunnions and too far forward by a millimetre.I remarked them using a scribing block and redrilled the frames and now they fit as etched.I`m only fitting two as the other two were modified in an effort to correct the fault but they only show on the outside.

[sagaguy]

Finally getting towards the finish line,brake shoes fitted and brake rods attached. Now for painting.them.

 

                 Ray.

[sagaguy]

Well,here it is at last,painted and reassembled.A couple of small jobs to do on it.What have i learned from this build?.Firstly,it`s much different from 00,you need oodles of patience,lots of forward thinking otherwise,having soldered a part in place,you can find that the next part needs to behind it,cue lots of bad language.Photographs of the real thing are a must,don`t take it for granted that psrts will go in the right place,ie.the wrong placing in the pre drilled frames caused no end of trouble when the weighshaft was fitted and the etched forks for moving the radius rods fouled the expansion block causing the valve gear to jam.!00w temp,controlled soldering stations are a must,you also build a large collection of swiss files and other tools.After all this,i may have a fiddle with the Dublo for a while but being a glutton for punishment ,i have a Roxey Mouldings WD Austerity 2-8-0 to build and a DJH 9f.both in 0 gauge!..

 

                   Ray.