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Track Crossing Baseboard Joints at an Angle


55F

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I am in the late stages of planning a layout. I would appreciate member's views on their preferred method of fixing track at the joint with regard to track which is at an angle to the joint.. [i am using Peco track]. For example is it better to cut the track at the join or to cut the surface board so as to make it a right angle [an idea I have come across somewhere]. Any reasoning behind your method will be appreciated.

 

Thankyou

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I am in the late stages of planning a layout. I would appreciate member's views on their preferred method of fixing track at the joint with regard to track which is at an angle to the joint.. [i am using Peco track]. For example is it better to cut the track at the join or to cut the surface board so as to make it a right angle [an idea I have come across somewhere]. Any reasoning behind your method will be appreciated.

 

Thankyou

 

 

 

have a look in baseboard track joints, a few messages below this one as I type.

 

OzzyO.

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have a look in baseboard track joints, a few messages below this one as I type.

 

OzzyO.

 

Thanks for the response. I had read that thread but I could not find any reference in those posts to track crossing at an angle. I do try not to ask questions which are answered elsewhere but am having difficulty finding a reference to this particular issue. any thoughts appreciated.

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  • RMweb Gold

I think this would largely depend on the crossing angle.

 

post-7024-0-21011300-1295715942_thumb.jpg

 

The above photo shows (left hand side towards the bottom) how I've done mine using small brass screws and the rails soldered to them. If the angle gets any shallower, you might lose too many sleepers

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  • RMweb Gold

Hi,

 

A simple mistake that causes lots of derailments.

 

Always remember to make the cut in the track at 90 degrees to the track, even if the track crosses the baseboard joint at an angle.

 

DesA

 

That is not what I did. The track shown in the photo crosses the joint at an angle and I cut the track in line with the joint after I'd soldered the rails to the screws. I used the screws in order to set the height (screw in, screw out) before I glued the track down.

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Nope, I cut both rails in line with the joint using a razor saw.

Yeah bad idea really, much better to cut the rail square and the bases at the angle. You'll probably be ok with the screws underneath but there is more chance of derailments with a diagonal cut in the rail than a square cut.

 

Much better making the board so that the track crosses it square but if its not possible then the method below worked well in P4:

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php/blog/61/entry-4295-bridging-the-gaps/

and then:

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php/blog/61/entry-4502-running-night-at-manchester-and-more-progress/

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  • RMweb Gold

As agreed by Craig, the rails should be cut square and the track base in line with the angle otherwise derailments may occur.

 

DesA

 

I shall await the derailments with bated breath then. The boards are joined with pattern maker's dowels, therefore the boards always line up and I have dismantled my layout and put it back together again many times.

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Another way is to get some copper clad about 1" wide and fasten about 1/2" on each side of the BB joint, then solder the track down, then cut through the CC and the rails, but don't forget to gap the CC.

 

OzzyO.

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Another way is to get some copper clad about 1" wide and fasten about 1/2" on each side of the BB joint, then solder the track down, then cut through the CC and the rails, but don't forget to gap the CC.

 

OzzyO.

 

Hi

 

If laying the copper clad board the full width of multiple tracks don't forget to gap between the tracks as well. Guess who didn't recently and spent a few head scratching minutes trying to work out where the short was.

 

Cheers

 

Paul

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