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coombe junction - moorswater - rotary dries cladding - I


bcnPete

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Update - me again...but this time some modelling...rather than sketching ideas for the future.

 

Last night I started to clad the rotary dries building using some corrugated plasticard sheeting held in place with double sided tape and a wash of MEK along the bottom of the plastic. I want to try and make the building look, as it does in reality, slightly cobbled together as it clad in panels which have been patched over the years. I started buy cutting the plasticard into horizontal strips and then cutting these individually and attaching by overlapping the panels vertically. With nearly one side of it completed last night I thought it was going okish but this morning on reflection I thought it looked awful. I kept looking at the corrugations and thinking it was too clumsy for 2FS and whilst a coat of paint may have tided it up, it looked something like this:

 

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and I thought...Nah...it's got to go...coupled with some awful crude double sided tape that I shall not be using again.

 

So this was all stripped off tonight, the swear box now brimming with Euros awaiting Dapols 121 Bubble and it was time for a rethink :rolleyes:

 

At 2FS scale, I guess we cannot replicate some details - For the joining of the panels, I wanted to give a sense of randomness with the cladding but the overlap would be too much using the 1mm thickness of the evergreen sheeting I had, so I have opted for a slightly different method of application. A few photos to walk through it...

 

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Firstly, a series of horizontal bands which act as datums as well as give a little relief for the panels...

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Secondly, the panels were cut in horizontal bands then cut and laid individually...

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Thirdly, the next layer of panels were added with the bottom edge sitting on 10 thou plasticard to give a small shadow...

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Which is just visible from this lower level shot.

 

It's slow and tedious work, but I think it gives a finer appearance and once it has had a coat of grey primer I think it will provide a good base for painting and weathering.

 

Finally...an imposter in the dries as per Mark 46444's request...come on Bachfar...where are my pre ordered PCA's? :angry:

 

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EDIT - It still looked a bit grubby so first thing this morning, I woke my neighbours by shaking a can of grey car primer for 2 minutes and gave it a light wash...I attach two further photos below (cos I still ain't grasped how to add them in a reply :rolleyes:)...it has cleaned it up a little and I think I will continue the cladding next week.

 

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First wash of grey primer...

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Hopefully the weathering can start to pick out the panels individually...

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Pete, well, I was going to say that the first version looked ok... but the second version is very much better, so I can see why you started again. I find these descriptive posts very useful as a means to establish the additional techniques to employ. Keep up the good work, and I look forward to the next posting. It's looking good!

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  • RMweb Premium

Your right the first attempt did not look right and the second one does look much better. The corner joint's going to be tricky to get right. I suspect that this might top the swear box up even more.

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  • RMweb Gold

Morning Pete,

 

Looking really good. I'm a bit like Jon that when I looked at the first attempt I thought it looked ok, but being the perfectionist that you are the second version is a clear improvement. Also as you say once it's primed and the weathering starts everything should start blending in nicely.B)

 

The FL 66 looks good in the shot too. As you say just need those PCA's now. ;)

 

I like the sound of your last post having spoken to JV. I think adding the junction and part of the incline from Coombe Jct will certainly add to the layout's operation, but also enhance the viewers perspective well. Now you can have units running into Coombe from Liskeard and then setting off down the branch to Looe. That might mean another trip to Ikea for another shelf for a fiddle yard though.:D

 

Keep the posts coming.

 

Cheers,

 

Mark

 

PS. You realise at this rate you're at risk of modelling the rest of the Looe Valley line with SKWWH the next (board) stop!!!!:lol:

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  • RMweb Gold

Jon - Thanks - It's always good to sleep on it...and what sometimes looks ok at 01:00am does not look so great at 08:00am...am thinking that for the second morning running now...hence the wash of grey primer to clean it up a little and help make a decision.

 

Kris - Thanks - Agreed - I am not so worried about the corner joint though as on the prototype there is a rectangular corner capping running vertically which will cover all those mitres...no doubt I will find other things to keep the swear box healthy though ;)

 

Mark - Thank you - No need to go to IKEA...I have a stock pile of those shelfs in our cellar...For me, it's the same as always having a tin of chopped tomatoes in the kitchen cupboard...likewise, you never know when you might need an IKEA shelf :P

 

Re the PS. The extensions have now reached their natural conclusion......

 

 

Latest on the cladding - I have just re looked at the photos of Moorswater and the horizontal line does look to be more prominent on the facades. For sure, the panels will be joined and lapped in the horizontal direction but this will be virtually impossible to model as its only the thickness of the cladding material. I have modelled the weatherproofing overlap for keeping the rain out but am now wondering whether to redo it all again by cutting horizontal strips and overlapping these which will emphasize the horizontal joint...decisions...decisions :blink: :unsure:

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  • RMweb Gold

Don't fiddle with it Pete, in 2mm it is so easy to overdo the texture. I think you have got it spot on as it is. You can always add a little shadow when you are weathering it - but you can't take away too much.

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Pete,

 

The second attempt is certainly better (though the first wasn’t too bad). I have a 'hangar' to build for which I will now use a similar technique – I’ll steal anybodies good ideas :)

 

A couple of questions:

 

- What make is the corrugated plasticard sheeting?

 

- What size does it come in – and what is the thickness?

 

- What size sheets/planks are you representing – I would have thought they would have been 8’ x 4’ with the corrugations running along the length; yours look like they are approx 8’ square?

 

My only observation on the dries building is that the overhang from one layer to the one below does look quite significant in the photos – 10 thou is the equivalent of 3”… …perhaps a strip of 80 or 160 gsm paper may be thinner?

 

All that said, it is still looking quite super and is coming along very quickly - at this rate you'll have completed this, and boards 4, 5 & 6 in the next 12 months and be looking for options for 7, 8, & 9...

 

EDIT: It so long to put up this post on the works system, the previous 2 posts snook in before I'd finished :(

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  • RMweb Gold

Ian - thank you...as you say some things in this scale are difficult to represent...

 

and then I read Steve's 'delayed' post :P....and he posed some very good questions which I will now try and answer...

 

 

Steve - Thanks - No worries about the delay...I am used to that living in Spain...manana manana :lol:

 

Here goes:

 

- Its Evergreen sheeting called 'metal siding'

 

- Size is just a bit smaller than A4 and this one is 1mm thick (hence why I did not lap it directly)

 

- It's difficult to determine exactly but from the photos it looks to be 6ft in height and 8ft in length...which is a strange kind of size in building industry terms and it isn't helped by the way it has weathered over the years - I guess I should have asked Mark 46444 to measure one for me :O

 

Good point on the overlap though...maybe its a little too exagerated.

 

I am thinking that perhaps I will try a third test strip on the other side of the building (facing the backscene) and keep the panels as horizontal strips, reducing the perceived lap as you suggest with something thinner and allowing the weathering to differentiate the panels.

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Pete looking lovely and I think the revised second attempt is great. I think adding further relief will be detrimental - but if you're wondering I'd suggest doing a trial piece so that you can rule it out one way or another :) Nothing worse than always wondering 'what if I had...'

 

I used corrugated sheet, used in reverse, cut into 6mm strips and overlapped to create pantiles in 4mm - so I think you're comprimise with the second attempt is spot on for 2mm. Top stuff.

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  • RMweb Gold

James - Thanks very much - Your spot on about the trial too...that might be the only way to thrash this out.

 

 

Thank you all for your comments - I think we have all agreed the first attempt was pants and the second one is better but there is perhaps still room for improvement (my school teachers used to use that phrase all the time for me :rolleyes: )

 

I will do another trial as above, on the rear side of the building early next week and offer it up again for comments - I also think Ian is correct when he says that a lot can be done in the weathering...it could make or break it.

 

Have a good weekend all...to be continued...

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Looking good Pete, I quite like the technique you used to overcome the over scale thickness of the plastic.

 

For the roof, have you considered using rolled tin/copper/aluminium? Similar to Missy's station canopy? I've used it recently and it looks good for your roof over hangings.

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Hi Pete :)

 

I agree with Bryn and the others, its a great solution to using thick plastic and the effect you have achieved looks really good. I have always been put off by using plastic in the past but I will keep your solution in ind for the future as an alternative to my mangle thingy as Bryn has mentioned.

 

Missy :)

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  • RMweb Gold

Some good work there Pete. Texture is a tricky thing. If you stand back from a building so it looks about the same size as your model at normal viewing distance for 2mm very little texture shows but if you move in for a closeup it does and also your brain keeps telling you its there. So usually it needs to be a bit coarser than scale otherwise you think its not there. If you can understand what I'm saying. I would try with a bit of 5thou in place of the 10thou just to compare or even the thin paper suggested. There must be an optimum where the texture is just visible. Unless of course the original has a spacer between the overlap for extra ventilation?

 

Don Willsmer

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  • RMweb Gold
the swear box now brimming with Euros awaiting Dapols 121 Bubble

That is a very clever approach. You get to swear and get a model for it! :D

Agree with above comments. Looks good to me already, but once the idea for a refinement is in your head it just has to be tested :)

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  • RMweb Gold

Bryn / Missy / Don / Mikkel - Thank you all for our comments - I think it is always good to keep self questioning what you are doing - to step back and reflect and redo if required - the forum is also a great place to pose these questions too - one thinks of -missy's- Elvis which is testament to this. Its getting a fine balance too of what looks right, or is over or under cooked even if we exagerate something a little to fool the brain - Option 3 will I hope address these issues.

 

That is a very clever approach. You get to swear and get a model for it! :D

 

Too right...it's a ******* good idea... :lol: ;)

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My only observation on the dries building is that the overhang from one layer to the one below does look quite significant in the photos – 10 thou is the equivalent of 3”… …perhaps a strip of 80 or 160 gsm paper may be thinner?

 

Isn't 10 thou equal to 1.5 inches?

 

2mm (scale) approximates to 80 thou (scale) which equal 12 inches (prototype).

 

I thought the overlap looked about right. Nice work, Pete!

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