Coppercap Posted December 14, 2017 Share Posted December 14, 2017 So far, so good. Excellent response from RAILS!!! They have asked me to send it back for replacement and sent me a pre-paid postage label. Great customer service!!! TBH, as you bought it via mail order, that's the least I'd expect them to do. Hopefully they'll test the replacement for more than yours ran, before sending that one to you! They do look nice though - I'm thinking of getting one, but can't decide on whiskers or SYP... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
owentherail Posted December 14, 2017 Share Posted December 14, 2017 My headcodes for DMU came in post today, cheers Dapol Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bailey Gate Posted December 15, 2017 Share Posted December 15, 2017 Headcodes received in the post today, good service from Dapol. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ruggedpeak Posted December 15, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 15, 2017 (edited) For info marker and High Intensity headlights are different colours as per prototype Edited December 15, 2017 by ruggedpeak 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy1963 Posted December 18, 2017 Share Posted December 18, 2017 Just had notification from Rails that my DCC fitted green whiskers cl121 has been dispatched. Early Christmas present to self. 2018 new years resolution, must build layout. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold adb968008 Posted December 18, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 18, 2017 (edited) Mine runs fine around my curves, varying from 2nd radius to 4th, and over points, but I find even on full power they run approx half speed of most of my other stock, I have two.. Blue/Grey and the GW150 and both pretty much run equal speed... but both are comparatively very slow to almost all my other stock. I find the same is true with my Dapol class 73's, is this a known/accepted issue ? (i'm on DC using a Gaugemaster Handheld). Edited December 18, 2017 by adb968008 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Ian Hargrave Posted December 18, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 18, 2017 Mine runs fine around my curves, varying from 2nd radius to 4th, and over points, but I find even on full power they run approx half speed of most of my other stock, I have two.. Blue/Grey and the GW150 and both pretty much run equal speed... but both are comparatively very slow to almost all my other stock. I find the same is true with my Dapol class 73's, is this a known/accepted issue ? (i'm on DC using a Gaugemaster Handheld). My bubble car was chronically stiff and slow out of the box,so much so that I almost returned it.I too have a Gaugemaster...a D twin track.Happily after much perseverance it now runs well with excellent slow speed control and acceptable top speed. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold TheSignalEngineer Posted December 19, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 19, 2017 My 121 was also sluggish from the box, particularly in one direction. I also use a Gaugemaster D. After about 30 minutes in each direction on the rollers it got much better. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Red Fox Posted December 19, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 19, 2017 I echo the comments about running in the 121, I have a some of the Hattons Limited Editions and after about 30mins of running in at half power they achieved a much more reasonable speed. I've had no problems with the steps catching on my 3rd Radius test loop though one unit is noisier in one direction than another but that sounds like something internal. It appears the DCC Supplies Limited Edition Chiltern Green 121 is now in stock, had a request for payment last week. Hopefully mine will arrive before Christmas. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davy crockett Posted December 19, 2017 Share Posted December 19, 2017 The cause of the noise in one direction is the motor moving in its mounting, a piece of thick double sided tape stuck to the motor or housing will cure the noise. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibber25 Posted December 20, 2017 Share Posted December 20, 2017 I echo the comments about running in the 121, I have a some of the Hattons Limited Editions and after about 30mins of running in at half power they achieved a much more reasonable speed. I've had no problems with the steps catching on my 3rd Radius test loop though one unit is noisier in one direction than another but that sounds like something internal. It appears the DCC Supplies Limited Edition Chiltern Green 121 is now in stock, had a request for payment last week. Hopefully mine will arrive before Christmas. My review of 121034 is in the February Model Rail. I think you'll like your model. (CJL) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest chris.trebble Posted December 20, 2017 Share Posted December 20, 2017 (edited) Couldn't resist Rails Advent Calendar offer (W55000). Too late to add to Christmas list, so had to raid my own bank account! Lovely model, runs beautifully straight from the box but, unfortunately, only have a short length of test track at the moment. Such a shame that Dapol's GWR streamlined railcar doesn't come up to the same standards as this model. Edited December 20, 2017 by chris.trebble Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibber25 Posted December 21, 2017 Share Posted December 21, 2017 Couldn't resist Rails Advent Calendar offer (W55000). Too late to add to Christmas list, so had to raid my own bank account! Lovely model, runs beautifully straight from the box but, unfortunately, only have a short length of test track at the moment. Such a shame that Dapol's GWR streamlined railcar doesn't come up to the same standards as this model. The streamliner is still a nice model, though. I'm going to spend today tweaking mine! (CJL) 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium alexross42 Posted December 21, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 21, 2017 I received my Blue/Grey 121 last week, it's a great model but stutters a lot and seems to be suffering power drops, which seems a bit more extreme than just running in issues. Twice yesterday it stopped at spots on the layout that other models have no issue with, then I just put my finger on the roof of the model (didn't move it back or forth) and it started running again - I'll do some more running in and track cleaning to see if this improves things, will take a look at the wheels too in case they need cleaning up. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Westernway Posted December 21, 2017 Share Posted December 21, 2017 I have the122 and the121. Both of these models hardly moved when I first started to run them. Although the instruction sheet says you do not need to run these engines in, you most certainly do! After a few minutes running both started to speed up and quieten down. They run beautifully now however, if they have been stood for a couple of days, I give them a quick spin around my running in track, other wise they are sluggish and noisy. John. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ruggedpeak Posted December 21, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 21, 2017 I have the122 and the121. Both of these models hardly moved when I first started to run them. Although the instruction sheet says you do not need to run these engines in, you most certainly do! After a few minutes running both started to speed up and quieten down. They run beautifully now however, if they have been stood for a couple of days, I give them a quick spin around my running in track, other wise they are sluggish and noisy. John. Why would not running them for a few days make them seize up if you'd run them in? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Westernway Posted December 21, 2017 Share Posted December 21, 2017 Why would not running them for a few days make them seize up if you'd run them in? I honestly do not know why they are sluggish (not seized up). If I did I would try and sort it. Could be the same reason that they were both very sluggish from new maybe??? John. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Roy Langridge Posted December 21, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 21, 2017 Why would not running them for a few days make them seize up if you'd run them in? I think the grease used gets thick over time. In time I will clean the gear-train of mine up and relubricate them. Roy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Westernway Posted December 22, 2017 Share Posted December 22, 2017 I think the grease used gets thick over time. In time I will clean the gear-train of mine up and relubricate them. Roy Thank you Roy. I am very new to the hobby and have lots to learn. ATB John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Roy Langridge Posted December 22, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 22, 2017 Thank you Roy. I am very new to the hobby and have lots to learn. ATB John Just for reference, I use Labelle PTFE grease and find it very good. Roy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
owentherail Posted December 27, 2017 Share Posted December 27, 2017 Hattons have sent me a set of headcodes too now, nice of them, must of looked up who had the DMUs on record. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Johnster Posted December 28, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 28, 2017 Thank you Roy. I am very new to the hobby and have lots to learn. ATB John Lubricant grease left for a period can solidify and cause the very problem it is supposed to solve, but a few days shouldn't make much difference. How long does make a difference is a variable dependent on all sort of things I don't know much about such as temperature, humidity, the price of horse biscuits in Outer Mongolia and such, but the longer you leave it the more likely it is to lose it's viscosity, and keeping the model in the box seems not to help! A frequent inquiry on this site is where a 'brand new' model which has been stored for a few years while the layout is built will not run because it is seized solid! The remedy is to clean the old grease out; I use Maplin's rattle can 'Switch Cleaner' which has so far been kind enough to my various types of plastic and is powerful enough as a spray to blast most of the old grease out of the way. Once the model is clean, leave it overnight while the spray evaporates, and re-lubricate. This can be done with suitable machine oil obtained from a model shop or Hobbycraft, with a hypodermic syringe to apply it; it needs to be applied in very small amounts, and the hypo helps you get into awkward spots. Keep the hypo separate from any others in your home for obvious reasons THIS IS IMPORTANT. You will have to take the body off your loco to do this. Instructions on how to do this will be in the service sheet that came with the model; if you do not have one they are downloadable from the manufacturers' websites; they will also show you the correct points to lubricate. PTFE grease is a superb lubricant but I would not be certain that it can be applied by hypo to some fiddly spots! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold TheSignalEngineer Posted December 28, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 28, 2017 That white stuff is a real pain, but can have a silver lining. I bought a Baccy 08, struggling to turn a wheel, for a knock-down price. I suspected that a bit of 'adjustment' would do the trick as when it was persuaded to move it did so quite smoothly. Sure enough when I got it apart the white stuff was solid in the gears. I dismantled it and cleaned all of the crud out, then lubricated it with a black graphited grease. It's now been running for about 7 years with no further attention. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Red Fox Posted December 31, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 31, 2017 My review of 121034 is in the February Model Rail. I think you'll like your model. (CJL) It is very nice. I'm pleased DCC Supplies and Dapol went the extra mile on this to provide the door locking plates. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Johnster Posted January 2, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 2, 2018 That white stuff is a real pain, but can have a silver lining. I bought a Baccy 08, struggling to turn a wheel, for a knock-down price. I suspected that a bit of 'adjustment' would do the trick as when it was persuaded to move it did so quite smoothly. Sure enough when I got it apart the white stuff was solid in the gears. I dismantled it and cleaned all of the crud out, then lubricated it with a black graphited grease. It's now been running for about 7 years with no further attention. I have a similar tale to tell about my Hornby 2721, although in this case it was a matter of it's previous owner's attempting to lubricate it, finding that it didn't work because he (assumption alert, and qualification, here; other genders are available) hadn't cleaned out the old stuff, and putting more on. A strip down, proper clean out, re-lube, and careful re-assembly has provided me with a nice little runner and a useful loco for a fiver, and a bit of working up has improved the appearance quite a bit, too. Slow running is not bad, but not on a par with my Baccy panniers, so she is rostered to the morning miner's workman's. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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