zivadiva Posted August 3, 2013 Share Posted August 3, 2013 Hi All I have insulated my new shed / hobby room and i am at a bit of a dilemma as to which lining option to go with. board out with 9mm plywood (expensive and is it a good use of plywood) 11mm osb (cheap surface finish not smooth) 9mm mdf Green type (cheap surface finish smooth fixings in mdf suspect) What have other members done or recommend. PS i do not want to use plasterboard need to use a man made board to add stability to my shed as it is an exposed position. Your comments / advise is welcome. Regards Ziva Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Judge Dread Posted August 3, 2013 Share Posted August 3, 2013 Hi All I have insulated my new shed / hobby room and i am at a bit of a dilemma as to which lining option to go with. board out with 9mm plywood (expensive and is it a good use of plywood) 11mm osb (cheap surface finish not smooth) 9mm mdf Green type (cheap surface finish smooth fixings in mdf suspect) What have other members done or recommend. PS i do not want to use plasterboard need to use a man made board to add stability to my shed as it is an exposed position. Your comments / advise is welcome. Regards Ziva Lining out is one thing but a waste without isolation as well. I'm not sure what you mean regarding plasterboard and "man made". Plasterboard does tend to be more-than a little heavy especially if you are trying to install it on your own. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium melmerby Posted August 3, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 3, 2013 Hi All I have insulated my new shed / hobby room and i am at a bit of a dilemma as to which lining option to go with. board out with 9mm plywood (expensive and is it a good use of plywood) 11mm osb (cheap surface finish not smooth) 9mm mdf Green type (cheap surface finish smooth fixings in mdf suspect) What have other members done or recommend. PS i do not want to use plasterboard need to use a man made board to add stability to my shed as it is an exposed position. Your comments / advise is welcome. Regards Ziva When I saw the topic I assumed you wanted advice on the external livery! Keith Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
zivadiva Posted August 3, 2013 Author Share Posted August 3, 2013 Yes the shed is already insulated. External livery camouflage to hide from the tea-leaves Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gruffalo Posted August 3, 2013 Share Posted August 3, 2013 First - have you got insulation between your joists? If not, this is a significant area that will lose heat in winter / allow heat in in summer so you need to do something about that. Once insulated, that can be secured in place with any of the materials mentioned. Ply is the most stable due to its construction and is very stable but also the most expensive. My shed roof has the gaps between joists filled with Rockwool mineral insulation and this is held up by a 6mm ply facing, screwed into the joists every 300mm. If you have concerns about the shed moving, adding weight to the roof isn't the solution but may be a bit of a fix. Have you bolted it down with suitable ground anchors - long bolts into a concrete base / pad? OSB is the lightest and cheapest of your wood-based options, MDF is almost the same weight as ply and will be cheaper but you must watch the dust when cutting / drilling it - wear a mask! You can get insulated wall board - plasterboard with an insulating layer - but it isn't cheap and needs a skim followed by paint to give it some protection. I would bite the bullet and go with ply if the pennies allow. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayell Posted August 3, 2013 Share Posted August 3, 2013 First - have you got insulation between your joists? If not, this is a significant area that will lose heat in winter / allow heat in in summer so you need to do something about that. Once insulated, that can be secured in place with any of the materials mentioned. Ply is the most stable due to its construction and is very stable but also the most expensive. My shed roof has the gaps between joists filled with Rockwool mineral insulation and this is held up by a 6mm ply facing, screwed into the joists every 300mm. If you have concerns about the shed moving, adding weight to the roof isn't the solution but may be a bit of a fix. Have you bolted it down with suitable ground anchors - long bolts into a concrete base / pad? OSB is the lightest and cheapest of your wood-based options, MDF is almost the same weight as ply and will be cheaper but you must watch the dust when cutting / drilling it - wear a mask! You can get insulated wall board - plasterboard with an insulating layer - but it isn't cheap and needs a skim followed by paint to give it some protection. I would bite the bullet and go with ply if the pennies allow. Don't forget the floor when insulating, in the purpose built 10'x8' workshop at our last house I put 1" foam panels on the floor with a layer of 1/2" Ply on top, plus vinyl tiles to finish off. Foam panels between all upright timbers finished off with 1/4" ply which was painted before any benches went in. The roof I had made with extra deep joists so I could get 2" foam panels between them, again finished off with 1/4" ply painted white to reflect light down. The window was also double glazed, not with sealed units but it had a 1/2" airgap. Cost me over £1500 but well worth it. Then we moved house :-( and now I only have a loft to work in which is in the process of being converted. Just as well I no longer have my 3 1/2" lathe as I'd never have got it up the loft ladder but I wish I hadn't disposed of the Unimat SL and other clockmaking tools as they would now be quite useful - instead I am having to buy stuff from scratch. The shed in the garden is only for the benefit of her indoors. jayell Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
zivadiva Posted August 3, 2013 Author Share Posted August 3, 2013 First - have you got insulation between your joists? If not, this is a significant area that will lose heat in winter / allow heat in in summer so you need to do something about that. Once insulated, that can be secured in place with any of the materials mentioned. Ply is the most stable due to its construction and is very stable but also the most expensive. My shed roof has the gaps between joists filled with Rockwool mineral insulation and this is held up by a 6mm ply facing, screwed into the joists every 300mm. If you have concerns about the shed moving, adding weight to the roof isn't the solution but may be a bit of a fix. Have you bolted it down with suitable ground anchors - long bolts into a concrete base / pad? OSB is the lightest and cheapest of your wood-based options, MDF is almost the same weight as ply and will be cheaper but you must watch the dust when cutting / drilling it - wear a mask! You can get insulated wall board - plasterboard with an insulating layer - but it isn't cheap and needs a skim followed by paint to give it some protection. I would bite the bullet and go with ply if the pennies allow. The joists are 65mm x 35mm and it's insulated between the joists with 50mm cellotex + 15mm air gap to the outside with 25mm cellotex over taped and sealed. The roof is to have 100mm of cellotex glued to the tanalised boards. After many hours of research the north americans and the Swedish actually do not have a air gap on the roof so hence no nails to glue the insulation to the roof.(its all about vented roofs may allow more moisture in then they can displace via venting) Why the question about the lining is that the plywood quality can be a bit suspect as it is either produced in china or brazil and its more expensive than cellotex can you believe. It sounds like i will have to bite the wallet and use plywood. Ziva Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
zivadiva Posted August 3, 2013 Author Share Posted August 3, 2013 For a cheap method of internal cladding try White Coated Hardboard it's easy to cut come in large sheets so reduces the amount of gap nailed on with white capped nails and joints covered with white Duck tape. Simples Interesting as a cover over OSB worth considering. Ziva Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jinty3f Posted August 3, 2013 Share Posted August 3, 2013 I used 15mm osb which i got from ebay in a non standard size, so was amazingly cheap. It took 3 coats of white emulsion before I was happy with the result, but it reflects light from the 4windows really well. Of course, it is still textured, but not a problem for me and the. grandchildren who are the only ones in there. It has also added great strength and stability. JD Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HLT 0109 Posted August 3, 2013 Share Posted August 3, 2013 Do you really need to line the shed - particularly the ceiling/roof? Whether you use ply, OSB or MDF it will add considerable weight which I should have thought was best avoid on the ceiling/roof. If it is necessary to protect the surface of the Celotex boards, then I would agree with the suggestion of hardboard - it has a resilient surface with relatively little weight; white faced hardboard is (I think) more expensive than natural finish so natural finish would be my choice. It takes paint quite well. Alternatively, a thick lining paper would work well but might be difficult to remove if you ever wanted to do so. My loft train-room ceiling is insulated with Celotex and I have simply taped the joins and painted it with white emulsion. Harold. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcm@gwr Posted August 3, 2013 Share Posted August 3, 2013 The other advantage of using OSB (or ply, etc.) is that you will have something solid to fix things to, Jeff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted August 3, 2013 Share Posted August 3, 2013 Do not forget to line the inside with a polythene sheet before lining as you need a condensation barrier. Or your internal boards will rot, and the frame of the shed. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
zivadiva Posted August 4, 2013 Author Share Posted August 4, 2013 Do not forget to line the inside with a polythene sheet before lining as you need a condensation barrier. Or your internal boards will rot, and the frame of the shed. Using Foil Faced PIR insulation board joints sealed with aluminium tape you do not need an additional condensation barrier as long as all the timber is covered. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted August 4, 2013 Share Posted August 4, 2013 Using Foil Faced PIR insulation board joints sealed with aluminium tape you do not need an additional condensation barrier as long as all the timber is covered. Foil towards the outside world, against the insulation. Kingspan or similar rather than glass fibre or rockwall as these will hold moister if the outside is not totally waterproof. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chris p bacon Posted August 4, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 4, 2013 There is something to consider about using plasterboard. It is Fire Retardent, won't stop something being reduced to ash but it will slow it down. OSB is perfectly adequate for the job, but I have to question the stability and sturdiness of the shed structure if you need to brace the internals with a board ? Or is it a case of overkill. Regarding sticking the insulation to the underside of the roof, the reason the North Americans and Swedes do this is because they have a roof void underneath the insulation,(warm zone rather than cold zone) If you do decide to do this you must create a void below the Celotex or leave it open for some air flow. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
zivadiva Posted August 4, 2013 Author Share Posted August 4, 2013 There is something to consider about using plasterboard. It is Fire Retardent, won't stop something being reduced to ash but it will slow it down. OSB is perfectly adequate for the job, but I have to question the stability and sturdiness of the shed structure if you need to brace the internals with a board ? Or is it a case of overkill. Regarding sticking the insulation to the underside of the roof, the reason the North Americans and Swedes do this is because they have a roof void underneath the insulation,(warm zone rather than cold zone) If you do decide to do this you must create a void below the Celotex or leave it open for some air flow. Hi Chris Actually its having the roof sheathing exposed to an airflow with the covering over. Its all mindblowing the different aspects of insulation especially with a timber frame. Not venting the roof underside i think is the best solution for timber sheds. KISS principle this after months of research. Ziva Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chris p bacon Posted August 4, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 4, 2013 Hi Chris Actually its having the roof sheathing exposed to an airflow with the covering over. Its all mindblowing the different aspects of insulation especially with a timber frame. Not venting the roof underside i think is the best solution for timber sheds. KISS principle this after months of research. Ziva Have to admit I am getting a bit confused with this ? I think you are applying US timber frame specs to a simple shed ?The thermal performance of a Timber frame house can't really be compared to a shed, having said that, stuff as much insulation in as possible and enjoy it. The internet can throw up endless solutions to problems you didn't know you had, I must admit I only follow English building regs now as it avoids confusion. I have yet to build a full Timber frame house, I'm doing yet another traditional build at the moment. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
zivadiva Posted September 14, 2013 Author Share Posted September 14, 2013 Hi All Some progress shed fully insulated and lined with 9mm softwood ply. lock and hinges fastened with coach bolts. Ziva Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coombe Barton Posted September 14, 2013 Share Posted September 14, 2013 There's loads of topics on sheds. This is one of them http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/69543-a-new-shed-and-layout-from-the-ground-up-follow-on-from-birmingham-central-thread/ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium melmerby Posted September 14, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 14, 2013 SWA to the sockets - a proper job then (none of this exposed T&E some people use!) Keith Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
zivadiva Posted September 14, 2013 Author Share Posted September 14, 2013 SWA to the sockets - a proper job then (none of this exposed T&E some people use!) Keith Yep Got a local builders sparky to provide a new supply to the garage and then to the shed. the lights are low energy 20w. got to construct shutters for the windows next. ziva Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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