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Cordon DD4


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Hi, this is Roger Slade of CSP Models. I have obviously built a number of the DD4 Cordon Kits. As a fellow modeller wanted to see one completed I have attached a couple of JPEGs of ones that I have recently built, I hope you find them useful and of some interest.

ps I was interested in the lead in the tanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!! They weigh a "ton" without any weight in them.

Thanks for your interest and time. Roger Slade.

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  • 1 month later...

I have been plugging away on this for a while and am not far off completing the model.

 

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Attaching a Bill Bedford unit with the sole bar and one buffer beam in situ.  You can see how the buffer beam slots over the solebar which has had the ends of the folded over bit removed.  The clamp is from the angling shop.  It is used for fly tying.

 

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The chassis pretty well complete.  The kit has a different arrangement with a lever brake but I have worked from an earlier example with a Dean Churchward handle.  I have added the rodding which is not in the kit.  Having discarded the solebars which had the truss rodding and a couple of V hangers, I have had to re-make the truss rodding.  I made a mistake in using angle which was too 'heavy' so after I took the photo I removed it and made another lot out of 1mm angle.  All the white metal bits came with the kit.  The brake blocks need tweaking.

 

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The 'lighter' truss rodding . . .

 

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. . . attached to the chassis.  The footboard supports are also in place here.

 

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I then made up the top with the tanks, referred to as 'receivers'.  However, I really did not like the 14BA nuts and bolts supplied for attaching the strapping so made replacements from 1mm rod.  These may be a touch smaller than scale nuts but I prefer to understate.  There is a bit of filling needed between the framework and the receivers.  The footboards that come with the kit only have backs on at the end whereas the one I was working from had them along the whole length.  I therefore made mine from MJT replacement boards intended for the Ratio Toad.  The supports I made from wire, soldered into holed drilled in the sole bar and under the boards, the latter being filed down so that they hardly show.

 

 

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To make my replacement nuts, I held the 1mm bar in a pin vice (the collar of which is hexagonal) and filed the rod into a hexagon.  The hexagonal rod was soldered at right angles to a piece of scrap brass, snipped off, filed flat (as was the cut end of the rod), marked with a centre punch (it helps to use a magnifying glass) and drilled 0.4mm.  Not all the holes here are in the centre so I made a few more as I got better with practise.  The gap between the straps at the top of the tanks is a tad too big but it is too late to alter this now.

 

I also made the top as a separate unit, drilling through the floor and the centre white metal support on the wagon floor, in to the 2nd and 4th tanks.  I threaded the tanks 14BA and used a couple of the bolts that came with the kit.  When I have the main supply pipe and fittings in place, I will remove the top to paint the underside and wagon deck before putting it back, completing the piping from each tank (sorry, 'receiver') and finishing the painting.

 

I am engaged in a contest with the plumbing at the moment.  More when I have won!

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Hi Davidbr,

 

This is a beautiful job you are making of this - well worth reading too! I love the old Dean moving cylinder brake system. The old 1892 diagram Y2 fruit van No. 2356 at Didcot has this system and it is really interesting to see it work. The story goes that just after it was finished and in the days when taking a vehicle out on the main line was far easier, this wagon went to collect some items from the west yard. The FTR had been done and it had passed but a senior inspector was on hand that day and took an interest in the antique vehicles. Everything was great until he took one look at the Dean brakes on No. 2356 and failed to see the thing for the wonderful curiosity that it was. Needless to say it hasn't been out the gate since...

 

All the best,

 

Castle

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I am now further on with the plumbing, but when attaching the fittings that came with the kit - cast brass - and comparing them with photographs, I wasn't happy with them.  They stuck out to my eye as being well over-size.  They are only loose on my photograph.

 

Below is the real thing and a composite picture of the model with the original fittings and my own.

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So, I set about making alternatives.  I made several attempts with a lathe and some 1mm tubing, but after a couple of hours I had just a couple of fittings.  Plan B then involved  pins.  I have some 0.55mm pins that came from Eileen's some time ago and the heads have a double ridge, just right.  So I drilled through the head with a 0.5mm drill and snipped them off for the lower receivers which are single flanged.  For those that were attached to the upper receivers, there was a second flange and a tap in between.  I baulked at the tap but used a second pin head for the second flange, drilled and soldered to scrap brass.  Having drilled through the head 0.5mm the pin stalk snapped off easily.  The head was filed, drilled 0.55 to go over the pin, unsoldered and slipped on to a pin.  Forceps acted as a spacer.  Having been soldered to the scrap it was already tinned and needed no more solder.

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Next job is to have a good clean-up, paint the underside of the tanks, fit the pipes from each receiver and attach the outlet pipes.  However that is for next week as I am going to Scalefour North this weekend.  I will be on the Missenden Railway Modellers' stand and have the Cordon with me if anyone wants to have a look.

 

My next medical appointment is with a straight jacket!

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  • 2 weeks later...

The contest with the plumbing is now over and I have come through, not entirely unscathed, but the victor.

 

I have got everything I want on to the model and put paint on the inaccessible parts underneath the receivers.  The image below is in photographic grey (aka Halford's primer) which very (in)conveniently shows up various bits that need some attention before putting the top coat on.

 

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Again, I was not happy with the castings for the outlet valves (on the under frame) and using diagrams from the WEP 7mm instructions, I made my own from 0.9mm tube and 0.33mm wire.  The gauges are not included in the kit and I made mine from 0.33 wire and the jig I used to make the piping from the receivers.  This consisted of a piece of 1mm brass wire and a broken 0.5mm drill bit round which I bent the pipes making a U bend round the 1mm brass first, then bending the end outwards to eventually fit in to the receiver.

 

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The pipes are soldered in to the outlet valves on the receivers, but the bottom end is 'sprung' in to the hole, drilled earlier, in the pin head.  They are quite firm, make a much neater job and there is no danger of unsoldering the pins from the bottom pipe!

 

Clean up, top coat and transfers to complete.  I hope to have it done for the Members' Day at Staplegrove on Sunday.  I will have a stand for the Missenden Railway Modellers there at Tim's invitation.

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The 3D rendering is a very nice model . . . 

It is a representation but inaccurate.  I have never seen a photograph of a Cordon where the receivers rest on a rail (which looks very lightweight) which in turn is supported off the wagon deck.  The receivers rested on substantial baulks of timber which lay flat on the deck.

 

There is also a lot of extra work to be done such as the plumbing and the finish looks rather frosted which would need smoothing out.

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Hello,

Just to clarify, my cordon does have the receivers sat on baulks not rails as per the prototype and the kit is based on drawings and photos of the real things (being careful to watch for the many variations in builds), the photos show the receivers raised up as they are being supported on sprues so that the kit is delivered as a single item, as the instructions on my website say, these need removing before painting and assembly and further detailing if desired. You may be correct that the lower baulks may be slightly under scale but a thin strip of plastic card would sort this I would imagine.

Regards,

Wild Boar Fell

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My comment in no way is intended to disrespect the wonderful job you have done.

 

I apologise if that is the impression I left.

 

Thanks, Noel, but it had not even crossed my mind.

 

Thank you, too to Wild Boar Fell for his clarification on the 3D print of the DD4 Cordon.

 

David

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Job done - virtually.  The grey looks a bit light but that is the lighting.  All that remains is a bit of weathering.

 

I filled the dial with Micro-Glaze, liquid glazing for small apertures, and added a very small amount of diluted white acrylic paint.  It just needs a little line to represent the needle.

 

Looking forward to the gathering at Taunton tomorrow.

 

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  • 4 months later...

It is the latest (or very recent) incarnation.  I bought it last year from CSP.

 

Thank you for the nice comments I have received from people about the model and the article, especially at Scaleforum.  They are much appreciated.  I have also been pleased by the appreciation from people who are not Great Western modellers but who found the techniques I employed of use and interest.

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  • RMweb Gold

Having read the mag I believe it is the revised version, although I am unsure of the differences. I have aquired two unrevised kits to build.

 

The revised version is supposed to supply U channel for the buffer beams and solebars and also a load of extra cast detailing parts. These were all missing from my kit, I'm still waiting for Falcon to send the correct bits.

 

It is the latest (or very recent) incarnation.  I bought it last year from CSP.

 

Thank you for the nice comments I have received from people about the model and the article, especially at Scaleforum.  They are much appreciated.  I have also been pleased by the appreciation from people who are not Great Western modellers but who found the techniques I employed of use and interest.

 

Thanks for the confirmation David. I think it would be worth me investing in a copy of the mag purely for that article. Not having taken the plunge in brass kit building yet, I will need all the help I can get with this kit!

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Thanks for the confirmation David. I think it would be worth me investing in a copy of the mag purely for that article. Not having taken the plunge in brass kit building yet, I will need all the help I can get with this kit!

 

It is not a kit for the faint-hearted.  I hope the article will help you and I wish you good fortune with the kit.  Having made one, I think I will now stick with the 2 tank DD5, although three or four of the 9-tankers together would look rather good.

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Somehow I missed this thread earlier but came across it after reading David's fine article in the new magazine.  There are many useful techniques and methods which can be applied to different models.

 

I admit to being a bit confused about the parentage of the kit, or more accurately the supply arrangements.   I think I've grasped that it is a revamp/upgrade of the old Falcon Brass offering but I thought that some of the good folk at Dart Castings had taken on that range.  How, then, does Roger Slade/CSP fit in?  

 

Sorry for being dense

 

Chris 

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  • RMweb Gold

It is not a kit for the faint-hearted.  I hope the article will help you and I wish you good fortune with the kit.  Having made one, I think I will now stick with the 2 tank DD5, although three or four of the 9-tankers together would look rather good.

 

I've just realised I've got my diagrams in a muddle. I have the twin tank DD5 kit and when I saw the DD5 on the FSMR cover picture, went off on the wrong tangent. Still, I'm sure it will present a nice challenge. :)

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  • 10 months later...

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