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N15class

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Well I thought I had got to a place with the chassis to start rebuilding. I was wrong. Off came the spring castings, reverser shaft etc, sand pipes and all the bearing. Only to find the bearing holes all far to big. The bearing on a few almost fell through. At this stage I was a bit ruthless I cleaned up the inside of the frames with a cylindrical sanding disc. Not neat but effective. I needed it clean enough to solder to.

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Now at least I know it will work when I put it back together. Right first job is to mark out the chassis so we can I hope get it at the right height and level, and cut out the front fames to take the horn quides. I then marked out the compensation beams after soldering two bits of nickel silver sheet together. As you can see, the pivot is off centre. this is to loads the front drivers a little more than the centre ones. I have used slaters etched horn guides etc. But I have modified them so the beams will act on the top off the bearings. Also the are drilled at the bottom to put a 0.45 wire in as a keep. I also had to do some butchery to a couple of spacers to get them in.

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We are now back to having a chassis with six wheels, that sits level. Just a little more work with spacers and we can look at getting the cylinders to screw on. I had not realised how horrible the wheels looked until I saw the photo's. They need some TLC.

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Edited by N15class
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  • RMweb Gold

Ouch, those wheels look like something from Barry scrap yard! This kind of project can be like repairing something on a house - you think it's going to be a quick job, then you discover all the mistakes and shortcuts made by previous owners :-) But I have complete faith that this will become a beautiful loco once you're done.

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Mikkel, Ithought the ones at Barry were Better. Yes it is one of those (as a builder I havevseen it all too often) where an error is compounded by another in the vain attemp to hide the first. I think last time I had it on the bench I had my rose tinted glasses instead of my reading ones. I thought I could just get away with cosmetics. But at least this time I hope it will be sitting on sound foundations. Next problem is the coupling rods, they have been made solid as one has a broken joint. Where would we be without any challenges:-S

 

Matthew, Thank you. Iwas was pleased with them too, I wanted them to beas descrete as possible. They just need tweking on the front horns as they catch a little. But that is easy to do. Attaching the cylinders won't be so easy, that willcome soon thought.

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Looking like a good recovery there Peter.

 

When you said "after soldering two bits of nickel silver sheet together" I was wondering whether they would be strong enough but it looks like your idea of sheet is a bit more substantial than mine - I was thinking in the region of 0.25mm or so.

I am struggling to be clear from the photos but it looks like you have cut/filed slot in the tops of the horn guides to allow the beam to sit on the hornblock?

I will have a look at doing someting similar for my next build after the 06. and possibly the A3 if I have to to get it right.

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Hi Rob

Yes I filed the 3/4 of the top and aboout 1/4 to 1/3 of the side away. I have also used the bearing with the longest bit to the outside. This was to give the beam a larger bit to rest on, and also takes up a lot side play on the drivers. The beam is from a piece of 0.8mm.

I just hope it will work OK with the most loading on the leading wheel.

 

Peter

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