david65061

The NCB trains on the Lambton system in county Durham worked about five miles along the british Railways main line from Penshaw to Sunderland to access the staithes so the coal could be loaded into ships. This was allowed because of running rights.

Dear Mike Thanks for that it will be very helpful. kind regards David

Dear Mike Any chance of a picture which shows how the pipe work and sand box rods are arranged on top of the tanks. I can not find a picture which shows this clearly, and it is preventing me from finishing my A class kit. kind regards David

The eight wheeled passenger loco has ten wheels?

If you want to make small rings, you will need to wind some wire around something of the required diameter. So, you end up with the wire spiralling around your core, much like a spring. Cut a single turn of the end and then solder the ends together to make a ring. It is really quite simple but rather difficult to describe with out diagrams.

I built a couple of chilton iron works locos. They were very good and i wish they were still available today. I posted in the topic below on page 4 a long time ago but there is a picture of my kitisons lambton tank from a chilton iron works kit at the bottom of my post. David

It used to be removed as soon as it grew as it was poison to horses. When we were in the scouts we would pay for our weeks camping at a farm by removing it from a field and then chucking it in a river as they did not want it in any of the fields.

please put me down for one in em, thanks.

Came across this picture on Heritage rail. https://www.heritagerailway.co.uk/1436/railway-history-and-site-of-an-lner-terminus-and-mpd/ Same loco and LMS wagon. Must be as it heads back to the incline. kind regards David

In the book Sentinel Locomotives and Sentinel-Cammell Railcars by the industrial railway society there are some pictures of partially dismantled sentinel locos and the coal bunker is lined with wooden planks. not a huge leap to think they might also have covered the top of the water tank next to the bunker in wooden planks as well. David

Dear Mike you need to put an addvert blocker on to your browser. If you are using chrome you can use Ad blocker. see link below. It will remove most adds from most wed sites. https://chrome.google.com/webstore/search/ad blocker plus it goes on as an extensions which you can find in more tools, found from the three dots in the right hand corner. hope that helps. It can't be that hard as I managed to install it. kind regards David

Could I ask do you need to drill a larger hole in the Gibson wheel to fit the markits crank pin, or even cut a thread as well or can you just screw the crank pin in as you would the gibson one? Thanks. regards David

Dear Adam Thanks for the reply. I will try soldering it. I had assumed wrongly that it would not solder. David

Dear Mike I am building one of your North British 0-4-0 kits at present and am enjoying it, it is a nice kit to build but I am a bit stumped with one point. Please could you tell me how I attach firmly the brass fly cranks to the stainless steel stepped axle? If it is a push fit there would appear to be a fine line too tight and too loose. Or should I use some thing like Loctite to stick them together? thanks. David

i have some models with a styrene chassis which are twenty years old and they are still as strong as when I made them. My models are not run regularly, some times not at all from year end to year end. so, i can not comment on how well they will perform if regularly used but I have no reason to assume they will not perform acceptably. In fact a lot of three-d printed locos use a plastic chassis. As long as they are well braced with plenty of cross bracing and are built totally square they should be fine. If it turns out that it does not work you will not have spent very much on the styrene so it will not be too much you are throwing away. you will be able to use the bearings and motor in a metal chassis if you have to go that way due to the styrene not working. The same rules apply to using a metal chassis in that the wheel centers must match exactly the coupling rods and it needs to be all square. Good luck with your own build.

I just discovered this topic. I built a gibson E4 with Darlington cab about twenty years ago. The cab side sheets were very thin and I managed to get them with I slight bowed and had to fill them with modelling filler to get a completely flat cab side sheet. I used the cab front forth raised cab but filed off the raised etch which represents the join between the original cab and the extension. The Darlington cabs had new fronts. I do not remember if i also had to reprofile it. Though the cab roof seems to be the correct size. The kit builds up into a nice model. This was the driver for my conversion to EM. I built it in 00 but the distance between the front wheels and the front frame looked daft so I rebuilt it in EM. kind regards David

Thought I would post a few pictures of my latest loco. A J69 No. 8623. Made from a Gladstone Models kit which I got cheap on Ebay. It must have been from the 1970's and required a fair bit of work to bring it up to modern standards including a scratch built chassis. It was an exile from the flat lands in the east of England which ended up at St. Margarets in Edinburgh. It is fitted with the traditional Scottish shunter's step and hand rail. Separated from the rest of its kind it also avoided being rebuilt with a taller cab and retained its stove pipe chimney which marked it out even more as a Scottish loco. David

Dear Richard Oh well I will have to make my own. Though I would appreciate you adding the sentinel axle box castings your detailing parts catalogue. Thanks. kind regards David

Dear Richard I want to build a model of the derwent valley railway loco. It does not have the difficult grills of the y1 and y3 sentinels. I may build one of your kits sentinel kits in the future. I know your kits are good to build.. I have a part completed manning wardle loco which went together very well and I need to finish the detailing. I particularly liked the fact it was nickel silver as this was nicer to solder than brass. As well as building kits though I also like to scratch build as it gives me a different challenge. kind regards David

Robert I would be interested in a chassis kit for a sentinel, if it had the sentinel axle box castings that would be great. I have been planning a scratch build sentinel but had yet to work out how to do the axle boxes. kind regards David

The only alternative colour I could think of is black. Perhaps with red lining. Is that what you had in mind?

Marcus I certainly would be interested in a tram conversion kit. Please put me down for one. Will it contain an etched chassis? regards David

Dear Mike That is a great looking loco. Reminds me that I have a little engines kit of one nearly finished which I should get around to finishing off. There is an undated picture of 69796 in yeadons in the condition of your model with lined valences and boiler bands if that is a help. regards David

Dear All It is a long time since I have updated this thread but it took me a long time to get around to ordering some new transfers from HMRS. I have now numbered the loco. I of course jumped straight in an numbered the right side of the loco with the number in the usual position for a north eastern loco, only to look at a picture of the loco once that side was done to see that 65061 had its numbers higher. So at least the left hand side has the number in the correct but unusual position. Removing the transfers to correct the right side I think may make a mess of the paint work so I have left it. As I was taking the pictures for this thread I noticed that I have still to make the balance weights for the wheels so that is still to do. regards David

just ordered myself a copy