Luke Piewalker

There were 2. Apparently 10578 and 10610 in 1986-87, briefly. https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/14601-inter-city-mark-3-sleepers-with-scotrail-blue-stripe/

It really is a fabulous looking train. Livery and shape in harmony.

Some epic rail blue action there!

Is the Digitrax Zephyr worth looking at? Great big direction and throttle handles for small hands? I'm happy with my PowerCab and have extended it with a second ProCab, a Smart Booster and a USB adaptor so I can use JMRI for all my programming and WiFi throttles if desired.

Copied from my post in the 33 thread Digihat (or equivalent) top and bottom. These come with a sturdy (Kynar) heatshrink tube which you slip a bit of over the retaining clip and that insulates the brush and spring. Solder the decoder wire directly onto the spring. On my 25 I drilled a small hole in the keeper plate so I could feed the decoder wire for the top brush (before you solder it to the spring) from behind the battery boxes on the underside with it coming out inside the bodywork (when fitted). Remove the capacitor, solder one track feed to the brass plate in the middle, the other attaches to one of the four bolts that secures the keeper plate. Kapton tape to make sure everything is insulated, and the decoder can be black tacked/blu tacked or what have you in between the battery boxes. The screws on the end allow you to remove the end sections of the chassis block which do indeed secure the bogies.

Digihat (or equivalent) top and bottom. These come with a sturdy (Kynar) heatshrink tube which you slip a bit of over the retaining clip and that insulates the brush and spring. Solder the decoder wire directly onto the spring. On my 25 I drilled a small hole in the keeper plate so I could feed the decoder wire for the top brush (before you solder it to the spring) from behind the battery boxes on the underside with it coming out inside the bodywork (when fitted). Remove the capacitor, solder one track feed to the brass plate in the middle, the other attaches to one of the four bolts that secures the keeper plate. Kapton tape to make sure everything is insulated, and the decoder can be black tacked/blu tacked or what have you in between the battery boxes.

I would have liked to see them take in North Road Station/Head of Steam while they were at the Skerne Bridge. Maybe something to revisit post Covid.

Oh I'm a sucker for Strathclyde Orange/Black. The Carmine/Cream is pedestrian in comparison and the Scotrail Blue doesn't give you that regional variety.

Have you got the 3CV speed table activated? Have you set up CV 2 and 5 first? Are other CVs changing ok?

Awespme as ever DaveF!

I am trying to add interior lighting to my Farish DBSO, but there are no handy solder pads on the PCB to access the 'other' connections on the Next18 socket. I have a Zimo MX688 function decoder, but the manual says all connections should be made through the socket and doesn't elaborate on what the solder pads on the decoder are for. Does anyone have any idea if I can access these functions though these solder tabs? Or is there an adaptor board that would sit between the decoder and the socket with breakout connections? Ultimately that at might leave soldering to the socket pins but those are awfully small...

A question for the DBSO experts. I'm putting lights in mine, was the lighting in the guards half of the coach separate from the passenger compartment or did they all come on together?

My Father bought a 3D printed body off eBay, then sent it and a donor Hornby Saddle tank to me. Stripped the body work off the chassis, removed the piston rods. As the body is Polystyrene used poly cement and stuck it together as best as I could figure without instructions. Paints are Revell acrylics I grabbed out the box after priming with Revell acrylic primer. Then dug through my decal stash to find suitable letters and numbers. Finish is very rough as I didn't do any filling and sanding of the 3D print. I have about 60g of wheel balancing weights under the bonnet and on the rear of the chassis (I painted those black so they don't stand out in the cab.

Finally... Does anyone want to buy an older farish DBSO conversion?

That was B&Q