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  • Location
    Richmond, North Yorkshire
  • Interests
    Swiss RhB, Scenic modelling and dioramas, industrial and micro layouts. DCC, MERG member and 3d printing.

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  1. No direct experience but only the SL1 from their range would deliver what you are looking for. I have never been able to understand why it seems so much more expensive then the Anycubic Photon or Elegoo Mars.
  2. If you have done the design work in Anyrail you can print your templates direct from there - just select the 1:1 option in the print menue. Sadly will not help the original poster as he is using a mac and as far as I am aware, Anyrail is only available for Windows PC.
  3. JimFin


    Having finished the overhead knitting, the advice re track cleaning floated to the top of the pile but in the absence of a CMX cleaner becoming available, I read up on alternative and am giving a Sharge unit a go. (http://www.model-trainstrack-cleaner.co.uk/) Converted from HO by to HOm by using 2 spare Bemo coach bogies, fitting 7mm spacers and slightly longer bolts than supplied to preserve the ride height. Early days but seems to be doing the job so far.
  4. I am curious as to the benefit of this technique as with some of my Swiss buildings I have simply used woodstain from a DIY store. What is the advantage to india ink?
  5. Led lighting strip ranges from 3.8w / meter to 41.4w / meter so it depends on what LED strip you are going to use.
  6. Depending on how you are providing power to the turntable bed, mechanically, use wipers to pick up from the main track to the rail on the turntable bed or design the feed commutator to do that.
  7. An ambitious and testing project. I really like the scale of the buildings as it shows the railway in a "lifelike" environment and admire you plans for the track - I confess I would chicken out at that and stick to off the shelf. Look forward to updates as and when life allows.
  8. Looks good, only other thought - is the heated bed working and at the right temperature - about 60 for PLA
  9. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.gamebasic.decibel&hl=en_GB
  10. Any way to put a hood over it? I have a clear plastic storage box I use as a hood on the top of my Ultimaker and cover the front aperture when I am printing with ABS which is particularly heat sensitive.
  11. Generally - wherever you are printing is too cold. Point is made on a few 3D print forums, this gives a good description - Cool environmental conditions are the single biggest contributor to delamination. Delamination or edge/corner cracking is caused by warping stresses when the first layer adhesion is stronger than the interlayer bonding. Or it happens when the heated build plate allows a strong non-warping foundation to be built until the print is too tall to be adequately warmed by the plate. In either case, the corners of the first layer can't lift, so the print cracks elsewhere to relieve the stress. Other possible issues are under extrusion which could be a sticky / jamming spool or the feed mechanism needing a service.
  12. One way is to fix the building down first and then build the pavement / scenery around it -
  13. JimFin

    3D Work

    Its very simple so Tinkercad suffices.
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