Right Away

It can be most rewarding to present models of the same class in differing levels of weathering and adding fine details differences where appropriate, as they can adopt their own individuality. Depending on the class, there can be a host of differences between members which, when modelled, will add considerable interest.

“Easy, Ern. You’ll wake ‘im up.” A reasonably presentable Brighton relic propels its brake down the UP local for reattaching. .

Reverting briefly to the OP’s title, Hornby has not been alone in selecting individual choices that some might find questionable. Back in the 1980s, among Graham Farish steam locomotives released at the same time were Nos 46242 and 34066. Many will be aware that these engines were, under the prevailing conditions of poor visibility, primarily culpable in two of the most destructive accidents on Britain’s Nationalised railway, hastening the call for the introduction of AWS. Other manufactures’ examples produced can be attributed to mishaps, but the two mentioned above, released together, did stand out.

Thanks John. Photo taken indoors, but using low, raking afternoon September sunlight coming through open door. I get a short “window” in early Autumn and late Spring when a low sun passes between house and the hill to the west behind us and can illuminate just a section of railway near doorway.

He most certainly did🫢!

Not quite discernible in the above photo but as a rough guide to “reds” in mono images, a comparison with the shade of the bufferbeam (if it’s reasonably clean) can sometimes help. As you say, the light background in your example would suggest red.

Always worth a quick peep over the fence on the way home from school; this afternoon there’s an “Arthur” brewing up in readiness to work a Ramsgate “rounder”, whilst a “Midland” eases past on the back road, no doubt for a run back with an early evening business working over the Oxted.

…. whilst still perpetuating canvas roof covering!

“Lazy Sunday Afternoon” , and so it appeared, with only a Brighton Radial showing any sign of movement.

You mention a preference for East Coast Main Line; that in itself smacks of LONG trains and therefore your answer would generally be “N” gauge. “OO” is possible within the restricted space that you mention, predominantly an “end-to-end” branch design and compromises might have to be made. Just a thought, some very good industrial railways have been modelled in “OO” within such spaces, even including quayside scenes. You also mention you have a considerable number of locomotives already; have you considered modelling a Motive Power Depot or Traction Maintenance Depot in “OO”? With some condensing of space, express steam and/or diesel locomotives could be operated quite realistically as they arrive from and depart for their rosters. With regards to modern express multiple units, it really needs to be “N”. Good luck.

Welcome to “our” world. Whichever kit/material you decide on, it’s what follows that will make your creation really “pop”. Kerbstones, drains, the rendition of gutters and weathering/discolouration all go towards a realistic look. Road and pavement repairs can also give a lifelike appearance and ensure there isn’t too much uniformity of surfaces. When you’re out and about, grab some photos with your phone camera for reference, but as Andy mentioned, be aware of how things evolve. Good luck.

Could it be a factory fitted “stay-alive”?

Thought I’d share a recent experience when renumbering and renaming a Hornby unrebuilt “West Country” Pacific which went somewhat awry. I’d followed my usual practice of applying a minuscule bead of PVA with the tip of a cocktail stick to the locomotive and affixed the nameplate in position. All went well but unfortunately I’d paid more attention to the covering of the original nameplate holes rather than the new nameplate’s actual position and it wasn’t until the following day I noticed what was amiss. I’d fixed the new etched plate about 1.5mm too high; in reality it is secured to the horizontal support rib beneath the air-smoothed casing - note rivet heads. That difference of a scale 4.5 inches did stand out and it really needed repositioning. To achieve this, I began by laying the locomotive on its side and dribbling hot water from a syringe dropper around the edges of the nameplate. After a minute or so, with the tip of a new scalpel, the nameplate was teased away from the locomotive. The nameplate was then fixed in its correct position using. Not everyone’s choice for the fixing of etched brass adornments, in this case I am extremely thankful that the use of PVA permitted a damage free correction after a considerable time after original fixing. First Position After removal Final position

The airbrush cleaner I’ve used for years is a 50/50 mix of IPA and Railmatch Acrylic Waterborne Thinners. A thorough strip down after every session (also the airbrush!!) For getting into the nozzle I use the extra small toothpick thingies - see photo. To withdraw needle, slacken locknut, ease needle back a few millimetres, enough to clear nozzle then unscrew the nozzle section then push needle out frontwards (as others have mentioned). After cleaning, I smear a tiny film of airbrush lubricant to the ball of my left thumb (I am right handed), then roll the needle in this and then insert lubricated needle from the rear - ensuring the tapered point passes smoothly through the internal O ring. The lubricant is also applied to the trigger button shaft. For health reasons I can only use acrylic pigments and cannot offer suggestions for cleaning after using enamels.

Camera lens brush, aerosol (compressed air) cleaner or if you have an airbrush, whack the pressure up and blast away; good for hard to reach areas around delicate details.

Hornby M7 0-4-4T - Improved Electrical Circuitry: The Result All back together, No 30055 is seen from the bridge as she returns on shed following a very satisfactory test trip. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zy8EYcRtukA&list=PLedVSPk28LsU49ao_oLKe34uLMQKP0O9p&index=21

The the ease of which close-up photos can now be obtained can have its downside if we care to look too closely.

Very nicely weathered Crompton.

I particularly like the Exeter banker.

I have a couple of these delightful little engines of which I am particularly fond, one which runs absolutely fine and one which steams when it wants to and it was this latter on which I decided to set about attempting to improve the running characteristics. Firstly, as some knowledgable members have mentioned, Hornby should never have relied on just metal to metal contact to the chassis block for one of the pick-up wiper strips and this can be problematic; the other side is wired (as the other should have been) and causes no issues. Previously, I had “hard-wired” a Lenz Silver Mini decoder when the locomotive was first purchased - around 6-7 years ago, and all had been well until about a year ago when the electrical contact issues began. For those of you who are blessed with more dexterity than myself, please note this was a first attempt with this class of locomotive and therefore I was “finding my way” as I went along. Modification No 1 After some fiddling around I ran a wire from the unwired (is that a word?) pick-up strip and connected the other end to a wire of the corresponding side (polarity). It was a good fix but sadly the existing pick-ups had lost a lot of springiness and loose a lot of tension, not making good, strong contact with the wheel backs. Clearly, an improvement in this area was therefore also required. And so to Mod No 2. At this point I decided to leave the factory fitted pick-up wiper strips in situ to maintain connectivity with loco wiring. I soldered a wire to each strip and the other ends to a length of copper clad strip 3mm wide which had been superglued to the keeper plate, separated by a strip of Plastruct, ensuring any screw heads were not obstructed. New pick-up wipers were fashioned from phosphor bronze strip. These wipers face down towards the rail and can easily be “tweaked” for tensioning (something the factory fitted ones can prove difficult, if nigh on impossible to do). Please see photo The bogie pick-ups were adjusted and everything given a final clean with IPA. A thorough test with the meter to check wheel contacts and wiring and then on to the track…….result marvellous! Just the brake rigging and a few other bits, including some new sand pipes on the underside to reattach. I now have two serviceable M7s which have staved off their final trip to Eastleigh for a few years. Admittedly, not the prettiest of installations; if I have to repeat this I would recommend dispensing with the factory fitted pick-up strips completely and wire directly to the copper clad strips onto which the new wipers are soldered as these are far more dependable and easily adjusted.. Hopefully all this might prove of some use to others who have a Dodgy Drummond!

A spare length of 20mm black plastic electrical conduit can be one means of practising your airbrush techniques. Approximating the size of a 00 gauge steam locomotive boiler of the larger classes it can be used as a guide to how your paints will look on a curved profile. If so required, stick a series of bands of masking tape around the conduit about an inch apart so different blends or layers of pigments can be compared. You’ll end up with a wacky looking piece of pipe, however as a source of future reference you could take note of what paints were used.

I cannot use enamels for medical reasons and so for airbrushing have found Lifecolor “Burned Black” a good starting point for the smokebox, but the adding of a very slightly warmer tint reduces the effect of uniformity.

“Right Jim, under the ‘opper when yer ready., She’s wanted back at the Lane.”

Thanks Jason I’ve now found photos of both two ex-LBSCR Pacific tanks with the BR number on the bunker rear, courtesy of Mike Morant’s online collection. I would imagine there are plenty more examples of other classes showing this practice.

Whilst having a browse through some older books I came across this undated photo of an ex LBSC D3 0-4-4 tank at Horsham in unlined BR black livery with its number on the rear of the bunker. The loco carries the early crest (did it even go straight from “Southern”, missing out the “British Railways” notation on the tanks?) and was withdrawn in 1953. Would this rear numbering, a short-lived early BR practice, have been applied to many engines?