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jonhall

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  1. The yellow line is presumably a 100mm flat surface and 3mm of underlay. All 'my' profiles were drawn through a coordinate at 150,100, but in fact they would want to meet a 'roadbed' that might also include a 'cess' I think a profile somewhere between green and blue would be desirable as well. I'm not keen on clamps, the idea of using 6mm bolts in 8mm holes feels like it gives a little adjustment, without it being excessive. Paul and I have both used a 90mm surface/93mm with cork end thus far - are Tim's standard baseboard a 100mm including surface, or 100 plus the surface ? you only really need the depth on the 'blue frontline. Jon
  2. but possibly not this many! @40mm centrers
  3. and from the above what I might propose as my prefered 'steep' profile, which I realise is somewhat concave, but I think that might work... probably needs a few more bolt holes... jn
  4. Added the green shape of the INGAnetNG profile, and the blue line is as steep as you can get and still have a 20mm upstand.
  5. I think that shows that actually provided the end profile looked 'tidy' or 'neutral' the occasional miss-match at the end of boards is OK with me (in this context) if I can accept that the world suddenly drops off in 150mm either side of the track, I can accept a jump like that. I think you could go as low as 20mm - which it what the 'gutters' are on mine, but I'll accept my boards aren't very long, so don't need that much strength! I have access to the laser cutter for about another ~9 months, after that it depends if I join a new makerspace in Reading, buy my own (which is a possibility) or periodically go back to Richmond. If we reach a decision I don't mind cutting a starter stock (probably in 6mm ply), although as the idea is to de-clutter before moving, I'm not sure I want too many on hand! again I don't mind doing a starter set of a dozen of those I concluded with my asymmetric boards that they could in extremis be used to create a 90° swing, but that would only have 1 bolt that the joint would tend to rotate about. I think a high and low on the centre line has a lot to recommend it - after that it depends if you think there will be multiple tracks crossing the board joints (which I doubt at the end of modules) an upper bolt to hold the trackbed tight, and then two outer bolts lower down would be OK? Jon
  6. I think A&B might have a use in allowing slightly warped scenery to be tightened together, but equally my existing modules hide that sort of location behind expanded polystyrene, and I think forcing scenery togethe r at the top edge will probably be detrimental to the quality of alignment at the trackbed, which should always be first priority. I've drawn a 300mm wide profile over the top of my 200mm wide modue end to give a comparison. the steepest gradient can't bisect the trackbed and make both corners. I havent put any man-made part enbankment/cutaway of retaining wall detail into the profiles. jon
  7. I've used two different sets of the 'scotchbrite' wheels, one from Cookson that I was happy with, and another from I don't recall where, that didn't really have the right hardness for brass, and seemed to fall apart a bit quickly - I suspect that anything from China hasn't got much 3M scotchbrite in it. Jon
  8. The problem is that the NEM standard defines the coupler box height, Kadee don't supply different heights because nobody in their right mind would manufacture a train with a NEM box at the wrong height... would they? Jon
  9. At that price I've ordered a set from China to compare as well - the colours represent grades, so I don't know what we will get? Not very much, most of my moulds reached the end of their life, and I couldn't continue demo'ing without re-doing them, I do howeever have a couple of projects where I have made the mould, just need a clear spell to buy the resin and knock out the parts. I Goodness! that's a serious mileage - are you certain it wasn't a Honda built one impersonating a Rover? My 213 (a Van Den Plas no less! ) rusted away to dust over 20 years ago, and I wasn't sad to see the back of it, Sadly I didn't learn and replaced it with another Rover, which whilst it didn't rust, you could check the water pump was still working by reving the engine and spraying unsuspecting bystanders with water escaping the crack in the cylinder head. It was only when I bought my first Subaru that I realised that completing a journey shouldn't just be an aspiration... Jon
  10. Prompted by this weekends (now cancelled) appearance at Global rail I've spent a few weeks working up a second module, and had hoped to show it as a work in progress - nevermind it does now mean that the two modules can be stacked in storage and protect each other. Only the upper section of module 2 has had Modroc treatment Left then right or right then left Or with my 'birdbox' neutralising section in between The trick is getting the landforms in sync, so that there isn't an interference fit anywhere Now we just need an alternative first get together. Jon
  11. Arghh - hateful things always shedding wire that then somehow gets into the house and then into my feet. I've moved onto scotchbrite pendant wheels https://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Scotch-brite-Pendant-Wheel-prcode-999-ACR and these radial discs https://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/3m-Radial-Disc-Kit,-6-Each,-3------Grades-And-3-Mandrels-prcode-999-1967&query=kitssale19consumable&channel=uk Jon
  12. I had terrible trouble finding it when I looked late last year - but it is still out there. Evostick multi-purpose IMPACT instant contact adhesive is what you are looking for. Jon
  13. I hope the 7mm parkside instructions are better than the 4mm ones - if you follow the instructions something goes badly wrong when you apply the brakes using on of the handles! Jon
  14. These were only rebodied BR 21t hoppers with a slice taken off the top. Jon
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