1965Nick

Thanks Chris, I’ve tinned nickel silver before and then soldered white metal castings to it using low melt but the space on your mk1 underframe kits to solder in gas cylinders and voltage controllers is way too small to get a hot soldering iron tip in. Cyano gel it is.

I’m sure everyone will have their opinion or a different solution. But would you recommend to attach white metal castings to etched nickel silver? In a larger scale I would have soldered using a low melt solder or an epoxy resin like Araldite.

Thanks Chris, this has helped enormously! Your generous help us greatly appreciated 😊

Hi Chris, I’d be interested to see those photographs too please. Thanks, Nick

Hi Chris, these photos are perfect and answer my questions. Thank you so much for sharing them. 😀

Thank you all for the replies. I think I know where the water tanks go; in the centre of the trussing as there is no space elsewhere with the refrigeration equipment, battery boxes and various control boxes. I don’t suppose it really matters but I’ll know.

Hi, I’m building a 2mm scale BR mark 1 diagram 24 restaurant car. I need a bit of help on the layout of the underframe. Where were the 2 water tanks positioned? Thank you

I would be interested in more BR mark 1 kits if they were available. Especially the ends and carcass.

Hi, what 2mm etches do you currently have in stock, and how much do they cost. Many thanks!

That’s very much the plan I have with a run off into a tunnel onto the widened lines. I have quite a few 57 foot Mark 1 suburbans nearing completion.

The BR diagram books (on a few internet sites) are really useful in giving the layout of BR mark 1 coaches. Interestingly enough I’m building models of the diag 36 and 71 RFO and FO but in 2mm FS. We have some great mark 1 kits available. My next step will be the RK and RSO. I’m even including full interiors.

Like you, I’m relatively new to coach building in 2mm FS, having previously modelled in 4mm FS over 25 years ago. The best kits I’ve built are the Masterclass BR mark 1 kits. They go together so well, probably because of the great designing and that they’re built from nickel silver. I’ve built 1 kit from Worsley works, which wasn’t quite so well engineered and was etched from brass which seems flimsier and not so easy to work with. I’m sure you get more detail than you did with 4mm fs when I last modelled. My biggest tip is to use a powerful 60 watt iron with a fine 1mm tip, got mine cheaply from Amazon, you can get clean joints quickly.

Thanks for the replies! I’ve often thought I should learn how to 3d print. From what I’ve seen 3d printing looks a lot sharper for detail than white metal casting. Didn’t realise B&H were still around but I’ve just found their price lists for December 2021. I do see they do Commonwealth and B4 bogie castings. What is the quality of them like. The 2mm society B1 bogies are really good quality etchings.

Can anyone help? I’m looking for Propane cylinder boxes and refrigeration equipment for the RB and RMBs I’m building. Etched Pixels are out of stock. Has anyone supplies of UM240 or UM242 they’d be willing to part with.

Handles are normally made out of etched partsand added on. It’s not as fiddly as you think. I do understand about the thickness of sides. There are etched available of ends and underframes. 2mm is not as scary as many think,