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  1. These look perfect, just right for the 04 I have on my workbench.
  2. And a very interesting thread it turned out to be!
  3. Just asking some questions about coach lining, having used pressfix transfer lining when modelling in 4mm finescale, is transfer lining in 2mm worth thinking about or just too fiddly? Would it worth considering using a bow pen or is there anything else worth considering. any ideas, warmly received.
  4. Hello, I’m currently building in 2mm FS some Mark 1 coaches specifically a BG and a FO but planning on building more types. I’m trying to find details of the handrails on the coach ends along with the details of water tank fillers on the coach roofs (if they are what I think they are). Any help or photographs would be appreciated, Google searches have not really turned up much. I’m also interested in details of the FO interior- I’m building the first diagram for the FO - the one with no doors in the middle of the coach. I know some were fitted out as conventional opens and as restaurant first
  5. Class 127 as used on the Bedpan line?
  6. More Mark 1 coach progress. The FO is looking good (in my eyes). Main body structure more or less finished, waiting to be cleaned up. Already thinking about paintwork. The chassis is nearly finished, just waiting on another vacuum cylinder to come. Then ready to clean up. Next, start on the bogies. I’m still on the look out for a B4 bogie etch but in the mean time I’ll build the mk1 bogie etch that came with it. The resin roof needs drilling to fit the ventilators. The level of detail in these kits is amazing, beating the 4mm etched kits I built in the 80s and early 90s. The designer
  7. Cocktail stick trick did the business when soldering my nuts just now. (that actually sounds rather wrong and painful). Thanks for the tips on sourcing brass nuts and screws.
  8. Thanks for all the suggestions. I like the idea of cutting my own threads, I didn’t realise small metric taps and dies would be that affordable. I’ll you know how I get on.
  9. Thanks for all the suggestions. I like the idea of cutting my own threads, I didn’t realise small metric taps and dies would be that affordable. I’ll you know how I get on.
  10. I’m joining a nickel silver coach body to a nickel silver under frame, I’ve used 2mm stores 10BA brass Cheesehead screws and nuts, having soldered the nut to the coach floor. I’ve seen on Amazon sets of stainless screws and boots in a range of metric sizes at very good prices. Would stainless steel solder to nickel silver. I’d like to M1.4 screws and bolts. Is there another source for M1.4 screws and bolts in brass? Any help appreciated.
  11. Hi, after returning to fine scale modelling after a hiatus of nearly 30 years, I’d like ask people about painting (hope this doesn’t stir up a big debate). In the past, I’d always clean up etched brass models with a fibreglass brush followed by a scrub using a cream kitchen cleaner and a tooth brush. I’d use a car undercoat spray can followed by a couple of coats of thinned enamel using an airbrush, weathering would then follow being finally sealed with a thin coat of Matt of varnish applied through an airbrush. Is it the same technology these days. I did start to use acrylic paint, I found th
  12. Has anyone get a spare 2-152 etch for BR Mk4 bogies? I’m building a Mk1 FO at present which came with a mk1 bogies but the prototype I’m modelling on mk4s in the 1970s period I’m modelling.
  13. More a sign of my ineptness with technology and no, I’m not based in Australia before anyone asks.
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