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Everything posted by RFS

  1. This decoder is not suitable as you will not be able to use the interior lights. You need 5 functions for the 4-TC as follows: F0 for head codes. This actually counts as 2 functions as the lights are directional. F1 allows you to turn off the head codes at number 1 end (ie the end connected to the 33/1 or 73) F2 allows you to turn off the head codes at number 2 end F3 is for interior lights. I use the Lenz 21-pin, but other 6 function decoders will be suitable such as the Zimo MX638D. The easiest way of programming it is to place just the coac
  2. I solved this issue by configuring the slip on the mimic diagram as two standard turnouts, which in reality is what they are. I use automation with Traincontroller now, but still configure them that way to TC. It's then very easy to see on the switch board which way the points are set - see this sample diagram.
  3. Have a look here at this list of Southern coach sets where there are details of Bournemouth-York formations. https://www.sremg.org.uk/coach/sets.html
  4. Powering a CDU and the LS150 are two entirely different environments. The LS150 is a DCC accessory decoder and you cannot use a CDU with that. The LS150 needs 3 amps input power and I very much doubt that the R965 supplies that. If you have one yourself you can no doubt check that.
  5. The secondary output of the R965 is most unlikely to be 3 amps and therefore quite unsuitable for the LS150 if it's operating solenoid point motors.
  6. Not sure I understand what you are trying to do here. The LS150 requires connection to the DCC bus (for DCC commands) and also to an external power supply. This supply must be 16v AC at 3 amps. Full details are in the LS150 instruction booklet.
  7. For a while I have had an issue with one of my 2-EPBs in that the lights in the trailer coach would only come on in one direction. This unit has been confined to schedules where it is not required to change direction. But then a second unit developed the same problem so I decided to investigate further. It's not the coupling bar as I tried changing that. I opened up the trailer coach and can see that there are two wires going from the coupling to tabs on each side of the PCB. A check with a meter showed that one wire had no connectivity to the coupling, so it's an issue with the tr
  8. No - I managed to fully stock up on Tortoises a few years ago before they became expensive! There's more choice today now with servos etc. but I find the Tortoises ultra reliable which is what you need with TC, or any automation program really.
  9. I'm using the default 2021 theme. The error has only cropped up once so far ...
  10. This may be related, but when I just now clicked "load more activity" I got this error message: [[Template core/front/streams/streamItems is throwing an error. This theme may be out of date. Run the support tool in the AdminCP to restore the default theme.]]
  11. Sorry can't really help you with that as I don't use feedback controllers for turnouts. I instead decided to use slow-motion motors (Tortoise) as these were by far the most reliable ones. I control them using NCE Switch-8 accessory controllers. I did start out with Peco PL-10s with Lenz LS150s, but there were occasionally not reliable, plus every time TC sets a route it always fires all the points regardless of their current position. Of course this doesn't happen with slow-motion motors, which made operation much more pleasant when there were quite a few schedules running.
  12. I used Silver till a few years ago (I now use Gold) and did not have a problem with accurate stopping. It all depends really on how accurate you need to be: if you're stopping over an uncoupling ramp perhaps you need to be more accurate but I don't do this. My stop markers are set so that as long as trains stop within 1-2 inches all is fine. If any train is less accurate than that it usually means re-profiling or re-calculating the brake compensation. So I think you will be fine with a single detector per block with Silver. I also use Lenz - a 5-amp LZV200 just for running the trai
  13. I've not experienced any problems with stopping in long or short blocks and I've been running TC for many years now. Stop markers tend to be at the other end of the block from where the section break is most of the time. A small variation of 1-2 inches is acceptable (and I allow for it), and is usually the result of cold/warm locos and also a result of locos becoming fully run in. The one recommendation I've seen is to have all brake ramps of roughly equal size, and when profiling locos to also calculate the brake compensation with a similar size brake ramp.
  14. Don't understand what you mean by this. I use a single occupancy detector per block and have no problem with trains stopping accurately. I also have blocks with multiple brake and stop markers according to train groups, and all is managed just via the single detector. Trains have to be fully profiled and it's best to use good quality decoders that have accurate Back EMF. I use only Lenz and Zimo decoders.
  15. The Lenz Silver Direct fits perfectly without any problems. If you want to fit a Zimo decoder, the MX600R fits easily so long as you remove the plastic insert that represents the generator - it's just a clip fit. Plus it may also be necessary to remove the sprung electrical connector for the pantograph which I assume you will not be using if running on DCC. It just fits with the same screw that holds the pantograph in place. So hold the body upside down, firmly holding the pantograph in place, undo the small screw, remove the spring and put the small screw back in again.
  16. The 2-EPB was supposed to work the same as the 4-CEP but Bachmann messed up and both head codes and lights work on F0. The 2-HAP has the same arrangement using just F0, but with the addition of switches underneath to turn off interior lights to leave head codes working. Hatton's first 21-pin decoder was 4-function, but it's now described as 6-function but also as version 2. Sounds like you might have the version 1 .... You actually need 5 functions for the 4-TC as follows: F0 for head codes. This actually counts as 2 functions as the lights are directional.
  17. Your problem with the 4-CEP sounds like a defective coupling between the second and third coaches. I would first make sure the two trailer coaches are the right way round as per the instructions, and if necessary replace the coupling. You could try asking the question of Hatton's. but I don't know why the 4-TC lights don't work. Are you sure the decoder is 6-function? With a 4-function decoder they won't work.
  18. On mine with a Lenz decoder the lights are on F5. Try the various function keys if F5 does not work for you.
  19. RFS

    Bachmann 4BEP

    The 2-HAP has the same connectors as the 2-EPB, plus it also requires a 21-pin decoder. There does seem to have been an improvement in the lighting: you now have a switch on the underside whereby you can turn off the interior lights and/or the head codes. This is similar to what was done with the Kernow class 205s. I was hoping the poor lighting in the 4-CEPs (especially the motor coaches which are extremely dim) would be rectified in the 4-BEP by using the same circuitry as the 4-TC. The latter's lighting is perfect - 4-way connectors so every axle acts as a pickup for the decode
  20. See here on this excellent website - https://www.sremg.org.uk/headcodes/eheadcodes.html
  21. There's a major snow event happening at this time in Flagstaff which has a live Virtual Railfan feed on Youtube here . The problem is compounded by a serious derailment to the east (not caused by snow) that has meant no trains running until about midnight our time. Be interesting to see how this develops!
  22. "Hachette Partworks Ltd" in the top left-hand corner tells it all. Describing the coaches as Hornby is a bit naughty ....
  23. If you're using Hornby-Roco couplings or Bachmann's twin-pipe ones then you'll find the corridor ends touch on straight track. I use the Hornby-Roco ones and it can be a bit fiddly to get them to couple up, involving either pushing the couplings together with a coupling pole (ie a thin screwdriver) or lifting the bogies slightly and twisting them. Adding any bellows-type corridor connector will only make this worse and may prevent coupling up at all.
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