dj_crisp

Pretty much as Nick says. There's alot of underframe improvements that can be done with extra detail thats missing. Using the 150 is a good idea that i hadnt thought about. One main issue with the 153 is the wheel sizes are way too large which really messes things up. A big improvement is better corridor connectors as this helps improve the face somewhat. From the hurst etch the cab side windows are useful. I did have a mad moment planning on grafting on a Dapol 155 roof and using the hurst conversion kit fronts but rumours of a new model hitting the market in the next few years mean I've sold up my project as recently as last week. I'm rather surprised this one hasn't been retooled sooner tbh.... its a small unit that has trundled all over the country with loads of liveries. Good luck with yours!

I'd prefer an alternative to knackered and ready for the scrap heap :)

Interesting points which are all valid but I'd have expected Heljan to compare info collected in the field with production drawings and measurements which must be available for the 47. I wonder if the body can be raised to create more of a gap between the body and the bogies as for me the side view really spoils this one.

I think there's space for celebrity locos but only ones that don't need a heavily revised tooling. Me I just like some nice 47/7s in NSE :)

Thanks for the offer. I'm trying to do something with DCC so will see if I can do something that works. If not I'll be in touch! Cheers Will

Hi Bruce! Many thanks for your detailed reply.... you can guess what I've been playing with the last few days ;) Sounds like I need to try something alternative... maybe a DCC lightbar or similar. I'll have a think. Cheers Will

I'm just looking at adding flashing tail lights and thinking that adding a DCC decoder could be a solution. In my searches i saw this comment and just wondered if anyone's looked at adding a function decoder to the existing circuit? Have to admit ive no idea how to do the hack! I guess an alternative option is to wire up a function and common output from the decoder to the pickups? Ta Will

Hi Bruce Many Thanks for your help which has resulted in me finding it in decoder pro...! All working fine now and I can reprogram to my preferred set up :) cheers Will

Sorry if this has already been discussed but searching and reading the thread I didn't find the answer i was looking for. Does anyone know which ESU decoder has been used in the DCC fitted versions - I'm using a sprog and that gives me many options so I'm not sure which one to use. My aim is just to change the DCC address, swap direction on a few coaches (for tail lights) and change the function mapping. Currently i can read a coach but not write so i think i've chosen the wrong one. thanks! Will

Thanks again for the info. I've very crudely added some detail to the BSO guards interior that could be viewed from the exterior. Opening the windows out meant I needed to remove Bachmanns attempt at a brake wheel and as its visible Ive addedd a stenson wheel instead. The base maybe improved if i can see it when illuminated but for the time being is a quick and simple approach. There's another window added to side.

Thanks! Very useful. If I've counted right there should be four small windows in the guards area. I'm tempted to add the corridor ones as they'll probably be noticeable with the lights on.

Yeah the interior is a bit different ;) on the subject of BSO interiors I thought Bachmanns trick of printing on clear plastic for the guards cage area was quite neat as previously I've done this with etches. I'm thinking there perhaps should be some more windows in the guards area so may try and open them out but as yet have found any decent photos.

I'm always surprised how small Mk1 or Mk2s look Vs a loco. I've always thought the 47 bogies look proportionally large vs the body which Heljan haven't got right imo. And Vs the Mk2b those NSE red stripes should be close to lining up.

I just happen to have a few MK2fs on my workbench.... A comparison between a BSO and a TSO... there's not a great deal of differences that I reckon can't be dealt with. There's a few interesting holes in Mk2d/e differences zones ;) Circuit boards are different but I think going from a bso to a tso will be ok. Probably steps is the hardest thing. Personally I wouldn't try and remove a CDL as making it look ok will be quite alot of effort. Hope this helps

Thanks for sharing. I'd do the same comparison on a piece of track though as the flanges could very well vary but you've done a good comparison. One thing ive noticed while converting Accurascale MK2Bs to EM is Im not 100% sold on their ride height always being spot on. This is not a dimension thing as that looks great... just that the wheelsets are pretty naff in my opinion and have a lot of slop so I've seen a 1mm variety in ride height in mine. I've put some DCC concepts wheels with 26mm axles and they're now great and line up to my Bachmann MK2f's. So it could be your MK2B is low. Even in your photos above I'd say the Heljan 47 looks low Vs the Mk2b. My prototype photos suggest they are a little higher than coaching stock but again there could be huge variety in the real thing. I think your photos have highlighted Heljans deep bodyside and bogie/body relationship isn't great.

Interesting.... were the BFKs Mk2bs?

The waterloo to exeter route often had a pair of BFKs back to back in the centre (for easier alignment with platforms) in the 50s later days. Not sure when the destination boards were used... my guess is its a 70s thing

I'm quite happy to mix both Bachmann and Accurascale in a rake as the grey is probably in the range of natural variability. There's a really nice shot of Blue/Grey aircon on the thread below which Simon shared when I asked about MK2ds on the Mule as I'm planning on converting a Mk2f to a Mk2d one day. As for precision paint.... I guess it depends which one ;) I've got a tin of precision later rail grey and that looks a good match for Bachmanns DMUs so should be similar to their Mk2f. Personally I really like Bachmanns blue and the Accurascale looks a very good match. I've tried many blues and Rainbow Railways is the only paint that matches Bachmann.

One other thing I noticed in my first attempt at converting these to EM using original wheelsets is there's no fixed position of the wheel to fit onto the axle (B2B is ok and set at the width of the plastic isolating axle). So its down to how reliably the factory can set this dimension which could affect the overall axle length. The only one I checked came out at 25.5mm (I think) and I definitely noticed some coaches having more slop than others so could be axle length varies...?

And hopefully some Accurascale Mk2as as well :) My MK2Bs are now all running nicely in EM thanks to the suggestion to bend the electrical tab back and use Black Beetle/DCC concepts 12mm wheels with a smidge taken off the pin points. They also now have less slop and line up very nicely with my Bachmann Mk2fs. So I'm alot happier now with just brakes left to align :) One thing I noticed on mine is some of the bogies arrived slightly over tightened so were stiff to rotate. I'm not sure if that info helps with problems going round curves or not? A simple quarter turn to loosen has helped.

That is brilliant. Many thanks for your help! I best get on with having a bash at modelling it :)

The wheelsets are really easy to take out and you shouldn't damage the brakes by doing so. I've removed all of my brakes and most are glued in really well but some have just fallen out when the glue missed. Again easy to fix. The only bit I've knocked off myself is the cross link thingy (not sure what to call it but it sits at 90 degrees to the springs) and be careful around the bogie steps. If you share some photos I'm sure somewhere here can also help.

A quick question.... While looking at Waterloo to Exeter Class 50/33 hauled services I often see what i think is a Mk2d FK in blue/grey amongst a NSE Mk2a/b/c rake. First question is it a Mk2d and i don't suppose anyone knows it's number? (I know of 13575 which appeared in NSE so could be that one in an earlier guise). Thanks Will

Thanks Chris. A really good idea that a quick bodge of bending the electrical contacts would work. I'm going to try the same technique as my attempts aren't great. I assume the contacts have only been designed as contacts and don't prevent body rocking?

Interesting... although I don't follow what you've done. I'd be interested in seeing how you've got it working :)