Diagram3D GNR 4 Comp 3rd Class Brake (Dia 281)

[uax6]

Mike, I seem to use a lot of those small bulldog clips, all you need to do is to put a bit of plasticard across the outside beading, so it can't dig in, and spreads the force....

 

Looking nice, although I rekon you could have cut it out in plastic just as quick....

 

Andy G

[MikeTrice]

It is only seeing the enlarged photos that I realise how hairy it has become.

[gr.king]

With a smooth faced structure, hairiness of lacquered card is no problem as a gentle rub down and re-lacquering, repeated until the surface satisfies, is reasonably easy to do. I can see that it's a bit trickier in this case. Live with it? go round with a very sharp, small, flat edged scraper and take off all the hairs and bumps? Go round with sharp tipped tweezers and pull off all the hairs? Phillishave?

 

Maybe parts in plastic from a plotter/cutter would be more convenient?

[jwealleans]

On the other hand, if it's only the enlargements which show it up, how hard is it to live with?

[micklner]

Only when it gets to this stage    

 

 

[chris p bacon]

Only when it gets to this stage    

 

 

11 wolf.jpg

Thanks for reminding me to see my brother this Sunday...

[MikeTrice]

That's me first thing in the morning before my first coffee.

 

Yes, I have gone over the model and removed the most obvious hairs and yes they are far less visible to the naked eye.

 

Teaking it easy today. This is my favourite part of any build: applying the teak finish.

 

The method has been described in far greater depth in another thread so here are the edited highlights.

 

The main ingredients: a tube of Burnt Umber Oil paint, some Winsor and Newton Liquin Original and something to mix them on. A tiny spot of each is put in the mixing palette:

 

Using a reasonably soft, flat brush the mix is spread over the prepared sides making sure all the various edges of openings and recesses have been covered:

 

Wiping any excess off the brush onto a rag or tissue, the oil is dragged out in the direction of the grain trying to avoid build up against the beading:

 

T'other end also treated:

 

And the end:

 

One of the major benefits of using oil is it does not dry quickly and you can take your time getting the brushed effect how you like it. Three hours after first applying the graining I decided to rebrush a few panels without problem. When you are 100% happy put it to one side to dry out thoroughly. One of the major disadvantages of using oil is it takes a few days to dry out properly, however the Liquin helps.

 

So don't expect another post for a few days while the oil dries out.

 

[coachmann]

3D and laser cutting might be the latest black in model railways but it's a brave person that chooses a primitive roundabout way of building panelled coaches using numerous overlays when this is going back right to the start of etching coaches in the 1970's. That coach could have been a straightforward etched brass kit provided the manufacturer had successfully overcome the problem of supplying an acceptable roof section. Perhaps the roof is where 3D techno could come in.

[MikeTrice]

Now there is a thought. A Howlden roof profile 3D printed! It would solve my problem.

[jwealleans]

Speak nicely to Mr King.....

[MikeTrice]

Nudge nudge, say no more, wink wink.

[D3D]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1PduxTcPGzY

[chris p bacon]

Thanks for that.

 

With the video as a guide, I think Mike should choose cherry red for his nails........

[jwealleans]

Whoa. Where did that roof come from and how was it formed and attached? How do you get back into the model once it's completed?

 

Looking forward to the next episode from Mr T.

[MikeTrice]

Love the video. Really good to see D3D adding information, but we could really do with a video that shows all stages, including rolling the roof. I might also have been brave enough to try the thin partitions and roof stringers had I seen it earlier. In the mean time I am plodding on at my usual leisurely pace.

 

The teak finish has had a coat of Klear to seal it.

 

One of the sides has had its protective film removed and slid into place then 5 minute epoxy squeezed sparingly between the outer side and the glazing with a cocktail stick. Pegs hold it together while the epoxy goes off:

 

5 minute epoxy is now placed between the glazing and the partition sides then outer side pushed against the partitions until the epoxy goes of. Sorry my "fingers" are not as nice as those in the video. Even nail varnish would not help here:

 

The process is repeated for the other side. The sides are now quite straight and very strong. I have added my additional partition to the non-Guard's end.

 

The two pieces of glazing have been stuck to the insides of the Guard's compartment:

 

As stated earlier the sides are now nice and straight:

 

In spite of taking care to be sparing with the epoxy some has still squeezed up onto the glazing. Being Acrylic I am hoping I will be able to scrape it off:

[uax6]

Paint the epoxy white, and it will look like it's been snowing! ;-}

 

Andy G

[D3D]

Whoa. Where did that roof come from and how was it formed and attached? How do you get back into the model once it's completed?

 

Looking forward to the next episode from Mr T.

The roof was made by rollng the cardboard after it was sprayed with varnish (matt, car spray) and allowed to dry. After a couple of coats it looks and feels like plastic but is more flexible. PVA was used throughout as the adhesive. Some trimming of the roof was required on each side. Forming the roof is easy to do with practice and thin strips are provided to make rainstrps.. Internally, the longitudinal struts provide attachment points and when set the roof is rigid. The roof was not designed or described as being removable - that's up to the modeller.. This not a complete kit  "airfix style" and there are no explicit rules to follow. However, the recommendations should not be discarded lightly.

 

Try spraying some cardboard with (matt varnish) car spray and then try bending it into the desired shape when it is dry.  The image below of the sides used for the video shows the shiny plasticy surface. No other adhesive was used, just car spray varnish as described.

 

More videos in due course.

 

[MikeTrice]

Some questions if I may:

 

"PVA was used throughout as the adhesive": Your video also shows 3M Photo Mount. Was this not used?

 

"The image below of the sides used for the video shows the shiny plasticy surface. No other adhesive was used, just car spray varnish as described.". How did you do this? Where they laid in the jig and then sprayed with varnish and relying on the capillary action to leach the varnish between the layers?

 

"More videos in due course." Yes please, especially if they feature Happy Sunday as "Fingers" again ;-)

[jwealleans]

Further to Mike's questions (and also to Mike, if he has formed an opinion)

 

The roof was not designed or described as being removable - that's up to the modeller.. This not a complete kit  "airfix style" and there are no explicit rules to follow. However, the recommendations should not be discarded lightly.

I wasn't suggesting the roof should be removable - I build my carriages to split at the solebar, so the floor is removable and is usually secured by bolts. In the case of a 6 wheeler, I'd make a Paxolin floor with the undergubbins soldered to it and slot the body down on top. Does your approach to construction allow for a model to be built in that way?

 

It may be blind prejudice, but I don't like sealing vehicles such that they can only be opened up in a destructive manner - that's a sure fire route to a seat or passenger becoming detached and jamming upside down across a window in the most conspicuous manner possible. Unscrewing something is my preferred route.

[MikeTrice]

The Guard's ducket sides were curved as before but with a thinner rod:

 

These were then attached to the sides using Tacky glue:

 

Then the top of the ducket was added, again with Tacky glue:

 

The roof is supplied as a single piece of card that is half scored on the reverse to aid curving:

 

Curving is actually quite straightforward:

 

One problem however is that the half scoring shows through and I wonder if it would be better to not provide them:

 

Tee previous post by D3D mentions that the roof is too wide and needs cutting down. I used an offcut of their card to create a jig to measure the width against an end:

 

Yes, the roof as supplied needs to be cut down by 2mm each side:

 

Meanwhile in the thinking ahead department I have painted the cornice strips supplied in Vallejo Bright Orange ready for "Teaking" which has been subsequently done with oil paint as before (as has the Guard's duckets):

 

The end steps are designed to be a single layer of card which is considerable thinner than the slot laser cut into the end. I did not feel that this would be very strong so produced some "T" section styrene strip by cutting part off of an Evergreen "I" beam section (ref 274):

 

The strip was then cut to length an epoxied through the existing end slots:

 

Here is the front view. Slightly thicker than the card but much stronger (hopefully):

 

To space the end proper from the inner end, and strengthen if further, a piece of 1mm card was cut with cut-outs for the steps:

 

Here the strengthener has been fixed in place and the end glued in place on the main body with Tacky glue:

 

As can be seen from this view the end is now a substantial assembly:

 

The end steps have been painted with Vallejo Flat Earth 70.983:

 

I realised at this point that I needed to somehow represent the toilet window. On the prototype this was patterned glass, and I felt it would be unacceptable to just paint the inside of the glazing white or grey. Instead I grabbed an image of the prototype glazing, then manipulated it, printed it, and stuck it behind the glazing strip with a glue stick:

 

So for anyone wanting to do the same, here is the image used for the toilet window. At least no-one can complain it is the wrong pattern ;-):

[MikeTrice]

Further to Mike's questions (and also to Mike, if he has formed an opinion)....

I guess it should be possible to construct the body as shown in the video but NOT glue the floor in place. Once everything is then in place the floor can be removed and the partition "tabs" removed. Just needs a false floor each end of the body to screw the proper floor to. Nothing I have seen or done so far would put me off buying another kit or two, especially at the prices they sell at, so I might just give it a go (unless someone beats me to it).

[jwealleans]

Won't be me, I have too many of yours to put together in the short term. I'd be very interested to see how you get on, though. I may have a use for a rake of 6 wheelers next year sometime.

[MikeTrice]

Given in and ordered a few more.

[JCL]

Well that was a bit impulsive wasn't it?? That said, I'll have another look at the link and think about it myself. I've got that GNR A5 bubbling under and I'd hate to put my Gresley coaches behind it...

[coachmann]

The GNR roof is distinctly different to that on other railways. Solid wooden roofs are an option, in fact I consider the GNR roof lends itself to a bit of whittling...

Edited July 8, 2015 by coachmann