Building a Judith Edge PWM 650 in 00

[MJI]

This is a build thread for my Judith Edge PWM650 kit in 4mm scale built as rigid OO.

The company story is on Michael Edge's thread, but I found him extremely helpful, as he said he just designs them while his wife runs the sales side.

I am building mainly by the instructions, but with some diffrrences as I am using Gibson wheels which I do not want to remove once fitted. So want to paint before fittng wheels.


I am using 145 solder, with phosphoric acid flux, a 25W soldering iron I use for electronics work and 99% of my soldering skill is from electronic and electrics, I can even solder SMD. I am also using Tamaya masking tape as a tool for holding things. As well as a clamp I have had for years.


Open box with all the bits in.


Diagram in the instructions.


The Gibson parts


The motor


Start with the frames.


The spacers


Box with bearings fitted


Last 2 spacers


Wire for brake rigging, not sure what that other hole is for, this is where I will divert by priming and brush painting before finishing off. Just need to make a wheel press of some sort.

The buffer beams, seam solder and file neat.


Fitting them, the diagram is a map to the temporary location of my dentists during building work!

Worst job so far, fitting the footplate edges.


Since then I have fitted buffers, no more progress until next weekend

Edited November 13, 2016 by MJI

[37038]

Looks like this will be an interesting thread - hopefully I'll pick up some good tips

Looks like this will be an interesting thread - hopefully I'll pick up some good tips

[MJI]

I have soldered the bushes in and will bed in one tight one with an EM axle from the pack and toothpaste.

 

I reckon one washer per side at each end axle

[MJI]

Links to some photos I have found, not embedded due to respecting copyright.

 

http://flickrhivemind.net/blackmagic.cgi?id=5809200721&url=http%3A%2F%2Fflickrhivemind.net%2FTags%2Fpwm650%2FInteresting%3Fsearch_type%3DTags%26textinput%3Dpwm650%26photo_type%3D250%26method%3DGET%26noform%3Dt%26sort%3DInterestingness%23pic5809200721&user=&flickrurl=http://www.flickr.com/photos/63255278@N08/5809200721

 

http://flickrhivemind.net/blackmagic.cgi?id=10271240286&url=http%3A%2F%2Fflickrhivemind.net%2FTags%2Fpwm650%2FInteresting%3Fsearch_type%3DTags%26textinput%3Dpwm650%26photo_type%3D250%26method%3DGET%26noform%3Dt%26sort%3DInterestingness%23pic10271240286&user=&flickrurl=http://www.flickr.com/photos/88810541@N08/10271240286

 

Oh and I have just noticed I have the wrong buffers!

[Phil Bullock]

Heres an earlier one for you of her at her long time home - Newland PW depot near Malvern

 

 

Phil

 

 

[MJI]

Heres an earlier one for you of her at her long time home - Newland PW depot near Malvern

 

PWM 650 Newlands.jpg

 

Phil

 

 

It seemed to be at Gloucester a lot though!

[Phil Bullock]

IIRC 650 and 654 alternated....

 

Phil

[MJI]

IIRC 650 and 654 alternated....

 

Phil

 

And 651 I think

 

I spent a while at the gates around early 80s

[Michael Edge]

The other hole in the frame plate is for the simple compensation system which you have not used, it's the pivot point between the two axles. Your buffers are the right ones, the oval heads are added to the round ones as in full size practice. Congratulations on getting on with it so quickly, looks OK so far.

[Downendian]

Nice work, I have one of these to build, will follow this thread with interest.

Neil

[hmrspaul]

I've a couple of 650 at Reading in April 87  http://PaulBartlett.zenfolio.com/brpwmshunter/e1297fabe http://PaulBartlett.zenfolio.com/brpwmshunter/e10301f33

 

Paul

[JeffP]

I like this one:  https://www.flickr.com/photos/12a_kingmoor_klickr/6296314441/in/pool-905508@N22/

[MJI]

The other hole in the frame plate is for the simple compensation system which you have not used, it's the pivot point between the two axles. Your buffers are the right ones, the oval heads are added to the round ones as in full size practice. Congratulations on getting on with it so quickly, looks OK so far.

 

 

I should have realised about the compensation beams, did not seem worth doing it as the other 060 chassis I have built have not fallen off the track, I do really need to finish my A1 05 but to be honest it is a not very good kit, so struggling a little, was detailing it off IOW pictures, but still need to sort jackshaft axle.

 

As to the Vulcan 04 I built many years ago, still needs glazing.

 

PWM650 looks like the best shunter kit I have tackled so far.

[Michael Edge]

I had built most of the A1 models shunters before I started designing our kits, I thought most of them were quite good at the time. I did use quite a lot of their 05 kit to build MDHB No 34 for Herculaneum Dock but since the original frames wore out that has been running on a set of Judith Edge frames.

I didn't worry about compensation at first but have gradually added it as an option in most kits, PWM650 does not have full compensation, just beams linking two axles. Although this is well worth doing, more recent kits have full compensation. This has always been just an option, rigid construction is always possible and we usually recommend it for beginners.

[MJI]

I had built most of the A1 models shunters before I started designing our kits, I thought most of them were quite good at the time. I did use quite a lot of their 05 kit to build MDHB No 34 for Herculaneum Dock but since the original frames wore out that has been running on a set of Judith Edge frames.

I didn't worry about compensation at first but have gradually added it as an option in most kits, PWM650 does not have full compensation, just beams linking two axles. Although this is well worth doing, more recent kits have full compensation. This has always been just an option, rigid construction is always possible and we usually recommend it for beginners.

 

I think slightly simple makes it easier to build a reliable model, I tried scratch building a compensated chassis for an Airfix mogul - failed, anyway I do need to finish the Comet frames I bought as a replacement as I could not get my chassis quite right. But wheels were damaged when being removed.

 

But the 05 coupling rods are in parts and quite fiddly to assemble. Tony Wright did make one suggestion for brass, use low melt 145 and not tin lead rosin cored (used for an etched coach kit many years ago). Due to this PWM650 is falling together.

 

I will get my 05 finished afterwards (no idea why I got it but I just like it, just need a blue underground train to go with it).

 

To anyone following, I have built 1 white metal loco, nearly finished an older etched loco, 1 etched coach (with issues I am fixing), so I am not a super skilled modeller just an average one who is not scared of a soldering iron.

 

But get the correct tool and materials, I struggled using electrical solder, yes it flows well but the heat required is quite high. I have some more powerful flux if I need it but phosphoric acid has been fine so far.

 

Tamaya tape is working very well for holiding parts together.

 

And to anyone else worried about jumping in, brass is easier to solder than white metal, my 04 is more welded together than soldered!

[MJI]

Ok not done much today (late up shopping ect)

 

But fitted 2 lifting eyes, very fiddky but I have a technique now - blutac

 

Also the 2 footplate brackets, one soldered to chassis and one to footplate

[MJI]

No pictures yet, but fitted the other two lifting brackets and all 4 steps

[MJI]

End of page one, now page 2

 

Grease or wax the footplate

 

Not sure what is suitable?

 

Copperslip, vaseline, the stuff I use in wheel bearings?

 

May use a piece of paper.

 

Now I need more stuff, I think I wil struggle on with the 25w soldering iron.

 

But will be getting some solder cream for the doors

[MJI]

Right piccies later with comments, but 2 14BA nuts are missing, they literally vanished.

 

Note the lifting brackets, not obvious from instructions which way they go round, I used pictures to check orientation.

[PaulCheffus]

End of page one, now page 2

 

Grease or wax the footplate

 

Not sure what is suitable?

 

Copperslip, vaseline, the stuff I use in wheel bearings?

 

May use a piece of paper.

 

Now I need more stuff, I think I wil struggle on with the 25w soldering iron.

 

But will be getting some solder cream for the doors

Hi

 

I used Vaseline when I did the Judith Edge Harton.

 

Cheers

 

Paul

[terry.ecmr]

I have a picture somewhere I took of PWM653 on an engineering train at Paddington coupled to a (Class 35) Hymek! Circa 1970.

 

Lovely project.

[Michael Edge]

End of page one, now page 2

 

Grease or wax the footplate

 

Not sure what is suitable?

 

Copperslip, vaseline, the stuff I use in wheel bearings?

 

May use a piece of paper.

 

Now I need more stuff, I think I wil struggle on with the 25w soldering iron.

 

But will be getting some solder cream for the doors

It doesn't matter, as long as it inhibits the solder from flowing through the joint. Paper adds an unnecessary thickness, I use grease, wax or Vaseline just as good.

[MJI]

2 for tips vaseline so I will use that thanks.

 

At least I am learning!

 

Solder cream seems difficult to get at the moment so will try a very thin tinning and sweat together.

 

Have emailed you requesting price for 2 nuts!

 

I think they may have gone through a very small gap in the laminate flooring.

[MJI]

I think I will have to use higher melting point solder for some tasks on any future builds for footsteps and the like, steps falling off when fitting, either that or use more heatsinks.

 

Even though wrong period I do fancy one of the early jackshaft 08 alike shunters.

 

Just need to find some chisel ends for tidying solder in a couple of places!

 

My current task though is tidying up the cab and doing those rivet heads, there is some very fine etching on the window frames.

[PaulCheffus]

2 for tips vaseline so I will use that thanks.

 

At least I am learning!

 

Solder cream seems difficult to get at the moment so will try a very thin tinning and sweat together.

 

Have emailed you requesting price for 2 nuts!

 

I think they may have gone through a very small gap in the laminate flooring.

Hi

 

Solder cream here

https://eileensemporium.com/index.php?option=com_hikashop&ctrl=product&task=show&cid=3454&name=solderpaste-188-deg-5ml-syringe&Itemid=189&category_pathway=1124

 

Personally I use Carrs Solder Paint (near the bottom of the page)

http://www.chronos.ltd.uk/acatalog/Engineering_Menu_Carrs_Solders___Fluxes___etc_346.html

 

Cheers

 

Paul