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More 3D - adding something new every week


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  • 4 weeks later...
  • rue_d_etropal changed the title to More 3D -Selsey Tramway locos,Garstang and Knott End,LYR 6 wheel coaches,GWR siphon G,Barnum and Bailey,Beattie well tank, ex LSWR pushpull coach conversions
  • 2 weeks later...
  • rue_d_etropal changed the title to More 3D -Sheffex Railcars,Selsey Tramway locos,Garstang and Knott End,LYR 6 wheel coaches,GWR siphon G,Barnum and Bailey,Beattie well tank
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I have been busy, some continental stiuuf, and then some BR DMUs requested , class 100 and cass 126s, which gave me a chance to update my class 120 design. Then something I had wanted, the SR/SNCF Night Ferry coaches and vans.

latest stuff can be found here

http://www.rue-d-etropal.com/3D-printing/3d_printed_recent-designs.htm

Next will probably be one of the LMS Sentinels(the non articulated version).

I also have a surprise to follow that but that is secret for the moment.

 

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  • rue_d_etropal changed the title to More 3D - adding something new every week

l am almost there with latest, the LMS streamlined articulated railcar. One I have wantd to do, but a chance request to someone from LMS society, and he sent me a copy of drawings, which from the wording on them are from the period. More like modellers drawings, possibly Skinley.

Although originally a 3 car unit, I wonder if it could have been extended with more centre cars.

 

LMS-articulated-railcar-early-1a.jpg

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16 minutes ago, rue_d_etropal said:

l am almost there with latest, the LMS streamlined articulated railcar. One I have wantd to do, but a chance request to someone from LMS society, and he sent me a copy of drawings, which from the wording on them are from the period. More like modellers drawings, possibly Skinley.

Although originally a 3 car unit, I wonder if it could have been extended with more centre cars.

 

LMS-articulated-railcar-early-1a.jpg

 

A "rule one" item to me but I think it will look rather good in BR DMU green with speed whiskers.

 

Edit: I don't have a clue what I could use for bogies for this. It would be useful to at least have some 3D printed bogie sides.

Edited by Joseph_Pestell
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A "rule one" item to me but I think it will look rather good in BR DMU green with speed whiskers.

 

I was wondering the same, and if British Railways had used it as a new fleet of DMUs in early 50s . Even maybe an EMU version!

The original did have an LMS version of the speed whiskers, and I have put as fine raised lines to help position the whiskers.

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Courtesy of Wiki

 

Overhead line maintenance train

 

In 1949 BR converted the articulated unit to a two-car set for overhead line maintenance. The centre car was removed and the number of engines in the set reduced to two. The driving cabs were given flat ends. To enable engineering staff to work on the overhead cables the roofs of the two coaches were flattened, creating a work space 130 feet (40 m) long and 5 feet 4 inches (1.63 m) wide. Between the two cars a manually-operated lift was installed that could be raised to 6 feet (1.8 m) above roof level.

 

One coach was converted into a workshop with all passenger seats removed and workbench facilities installed. The other coach was converted into staff accommodation with lockers, cooking, washing facilities and a WC, and 12 seats with tables as a mess saloon.[4] An old 30 feet (9.1 m) coach was converted to carry 2,000 feet (610 m) of overhead wire and attached to the unit as a trailer. Portable floodlights for night work were installed in the two coaches and in the trailer.

 

The unit worked on the Manchester – Altrincham line. It was moved to Longsight Depot in 1959 and taken out of service shortly afterwards. It still existed in a derelict state as late as 1967.

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Hello Simon

 

I've seen your impressive collection of 3D renders and quite understand the point you made to someone once before who asked if you had an actual photograph of XYZ, to which you pointed out that it would be prohibitively expensive to 3D print all your catalogue.

But are there any you have printed in the, please? Don't get me wrong your 3D design skills look exceptional and not part of my concern, but I am not the greatest fan of Shapeways, especially in the lower plastics.

 

I've just realised if I look at this thread in Firefox, there are several pictures. 

 

Many thanks

Derek

Edited by Derekstuart
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3 hours ago, rue_d_etropal said:

The digital images are probably more accurate than a photo, as photos tend to pick upon detail not actually that visible to eyes.

Hello Simon

 

Thanks but it's the quality of the 3D print that's the subject of my question. Your renderings look really very good, but they don't show the 'grain' and what-not of the printing. I notice some of your models are available in the more expensive print but some are only available in the more basic material; why that is, I don't know but I expect you have a good reason for it.

 

I'm particularly after a set of the AM10/ 310, but a four-car print would be an expensive way to find out what the print quality is. Unless there's any way to get them 3D resin printed, which appears to be a better method.

 

Anyway, excellent renderings, really good and please don't take my concern over Shapeways as any form of criticism against your really excellent design skills.

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I think the problem is that some seem to think of 3D printed models as final product, wheras I think of them as something to help them on the path. The WSF may have a rough surface, but it can be smoothed down if you know how(some either reject that or don't know!), and I keep recommending good quality non cloggng sandpaper. It is not a quick job, but like those who finish off wooden models can be very satisfying.

 

WSF also has a big advantage when it comes to painting and that is simply that any water based paint can be used on it. I use low cost emulsion paint , available in most DIY shops and a lot cheaper than small pots of hobby paint. The paint stains rather than sitting on surface, so does not cover up smalldetail, often a problem when paintin traditional plastc models(we have all seen those tar thickness paint jobs!)

 

WSF is a lot tougher than the finer plastics. Granted it can't be printed as thin, but even there SW are now putting in increased minimum thicknesses for the finer plastic. With care and time someone could wittle down some of the areas which need to be thinner on WSF prints, but those same areas with finer plastic can be very fragile and break easily. For fragile areas in WSF I apply a few drops of cheap liquid superglue before I do anything else such as buffers. 

 

 

 

As far as I know there are actually two different technologies used under the 3D printing name

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Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM), or Fused Filament Fabrication (FFF), is an additive manufacturing process that belongs to the material extrusion family. In FDM, an object is built by selectively depositing melted material in a pre-determined path layer-by-layer.

that is I think how the finer plastic is printed, but as it is printed in air, it rquires legs to support it, which then have to be removed very carefully(SW do this but that adds to the cost)

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Selective laser sintering is a powder-based 3D printing technology that uses a laser to fuse material layers into a final part. After the laser traces a cross-section of the CAD design(s) onto a material layer, the build platform lowers and another layer is fused on top

This I think is what WSF is. As the model is supported during printing, it does not need legs . I believe that ,due to the heat and static build up , plastic dust will stick to the surface when model is removed from printer. That is the rough surface.

Edited by rue_d_etropal
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9 hours ago, rue_d_etropal said:

The digital images are probably more accurate than a photo, as photos tend to pick upon detail not actually that visible to eyes.

You've got to joking! The resolution of most cameras is way below that available to the human eye.

Edited by PenrithBeacon
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3 minutes ago, PenrithBeacon said:

You've got to joking! The resolution of most cameras is way below that available to the human eye.

have you never read in magazine articles about how a mdelle only spots a small error when they have taken a photo. Even pre digital, that happened. The human eye might be more powerful , but we tend to be very selective on what we want to see! Also because digital photos are often not perfect they get photo shopped, so how do you know what you are seeing is actually real.

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32 minutes ago, rue_d_etropal said:

Also because digital photos are often not perfect they get photo shopped, so how do you know what you are seeing is actually real.

 

But the digital renders aren't real.

 

Until you actually print any of the stuff you are creating, you have no idea what it actually looks like, or how much detail is lost when you hit it with sandpaper.

You've also never answered the simple question of what glues can be used with WSF.......the simple answer is of course None.   

I've no idea why you insist on using it apart from it keeps the cost down. Just use the better material and reduce your % cut of the SW price.

Edited by chris p bacon
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the digital images are based on the actual digital instructions. the way it looks when it prints is the next step and depends on the printer and the person operating it. Even if a model prints perfect one time, it might be slightly different next time.

As for glue, I find most glues work, and someone told me  that they found simple plastic glue worked, because it gets ito the gaps between the grains of fused nylon and locks them together. That is ,I think , why water based paint sticks to it when being nylon you would not expect it to do so.

It is obvious you know very little about how commision/add on is calculated. I don't add that much to basic cost. The taxman probably makes more on each sale than I do! When everyone else starts working for free, and everything is free , then I might consider giving away what I work on.

Compared to the cost a commercial mould would cost, then 3D printing is still better value, and is sustainable. Digital designs can be modified easier than physical moulds.

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56 minutes ago, rue_d_etropal said:

have you never read in magazine articles about how a mdelle only spots a small error when they have taken a photo. Even pre digital, that happened. The human eye might be more powerful , but we tend to be very selective on what we want to see! Also because digital photos are often not perfect they get photo shopped, so how do you know what you are seeing is actually real.

I think it would be better if you stopped spinning this matter because you are only succeeding in drawing attention to the weaknesses of the process.  It is what it is,  which is pretty poor, sorry. 

There are better finishes available in 3D Printing and I think it would be better if you and others used those in stead. 

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Here is Simon's LSWR O2 body for 2mm scale, printed by Shapeways in their fine detail plastic. It has had a small amount of sanding, and a spray of primer. I suspect WSF would not be suitable in this scale. I have tried it for some 2mm scale buildings and it did not support the detail I was after.

 

IMG_20200117_234448

 

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1 hour ago, -missy- said:

Hi.

 

I really think more people should choose a manufacturing process that fits the model. Not get a model to fit a manufacturing process.

 

M.

Shapeways do offer alternative processes and materials to the buyer so that should be up to them to choose their own preferences. Personally I use 3D printing as an aid to scratchbuilding rather than an end in itself. With that in mind I would prefer things such as coaches to have the body and frame separate or body only instead of one piece. That would make things such as adding interiors easy. I appreciate that making the items separately might be problematical and/or more expensive but a body only option would not be difficult or expensive.

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everything is always a compromise. I aim for somewhere in the middle. There are those who want something complete, all the bells, and minimal work to finish, but there are also those who would prefer to have it more basic, a scratchbuilding aid, and if I was to do a differet design for even those two extremes, I would be buried under the extra worklod.

The cost reduction by not including , say, the solebars, would be minimal, and any competent modeller should be able to cut off anything they dont want.

 

I now tend to only do the smaller scales in finer plastic. It is actually less work for me as I can usually just resize a bigger scaled design.

If someone asks I will set options for finer material for any design, if it fits in max size limits, and the bigger the size, the bigger the increase in cost (those legs seem to be the expensive part!). SW remove the legs, some other companies leave them for the customer to remove(hence reducing their own cost ).

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