q1s in the west Pleye Wood

[Tim Dubya]

Quite like the look of the peeeecabooo bullheed fishers but have gazillions of fold up brass jobbies from EMGS stores.

 

I could go P4 with the Exacterscale fishplates I have in stock (and always break, thank gosh for cyano) to be fair they are the nutts de la chien and I love them lots (in fact two lots).

 

L.A. Ssie

Edited October 5, 2017 by Tim Dubya

[Mallard60022]

I resisted sending some Exacting Scale Fisher Plates in case you were shocked and had to lie down.

A. Trackcircuit.

Edited October 5, 2017 by Mallard60022

[Tim Dubya]

I must thank Mallard 60022 of this parish for his extremely kind donation of track building parts to my little project (even if some of them are P4 - nothing that shaving a bit off won't sort)

 

I shall, of course, be making a small donation to The Potting Shed charity in Bath, as exchange is no theft.

 

 

I did open up Templot and close it several times this afternoon but didn't get too far... that's not true, I did retrieve my account details for Templot Club and draw a rectangle.

 

Cheers

 

Dubya

Edited October 8, 2017 by Tim Dubya

[Mallard60022]

I must thank Mallard 60022 of this parish for his extremely kind donation of track building parts to my little project (even if some of them are P4 - nothing that shaving a bit off won't sort)

 

Track Bits From Quackers.jpg

 

I did open up Templot and close it several times this afternoon but didn't get too far... that's not true, I did retrieve my account details for Templot Club and draw a rectangle.

 

Cheers

 

Dubya

Absolutely no point in those bits sitting in the EM (there I've said it) track/point building box for any longer (last time I built anything for EM was about 4 years ago now) so off they go to a suitable Peefart modeller.

A£$e 

[Captain Kernow]

Greetings O Dubbydoo,

 

I'd use those Precise-o-Scale fishplates where you need to have a break in the rail for electriceul purposes, otherwise I would most definitely use the Pee Co. bullhead fishplates, as they are both electrically aimiable and also structurally sturdy, and have good bolt detail. I would most politely suggest that once you have painted and weathered the track, you will hardly notice the difference at normal viewing distances, or perhaps even close up with a microscope.

 

Of course, the Pee Co. items don't have the name of the foundry stamped on them, viewable via the macro close-up lens of the digital camera, together with the name of the foundry man, what he had for breakfast and the name of his aunty's second husband (all of which you do get on the Precise-o-Scale items, and which is mandatory if you are modelling P4 gauge, because everyone that models in that gauge has laser vision - I know I do, I bought my supervision equipment from Optivisor).

[Tim Dubya]

Thanks Captain

 

Quackers has sent me some Exacterscale fishers (in the DuckTrackPak) but my eyesight is too poor to tell which way around they go. I don't have laser vision but I do have a lamp from the Co-Op mobility shop bought on the eBay, I'll have to settle for Hornsby scale, I suppose. Pekerco fish bolts and brackets will be obtained and I plan to have electricery feeds (lots).

 

Will scribble up a track plan and attempt to convert it to Templot. TBH I'll only need the crossover & turnout templates as the rest will be SMP.

 

The best bit will obviously be off scene, with a Faller coal mine, a steel works, harbour and all the other stuff one finds in rural Devon / Cornwall.

 

Cheers

 

Dubya

Edited October 8, 2017 by Tim Dubya

[NXEA!]

Dubya, 

 

I'm currently working on a layout the same sort of size, so will follow this with interest. For what its worth I think a headshunt long enough to accommodate a T9 would work, you're not going to be able to fully run round your train in the scenic section anyway by what I can see of your plan, and the extra few cm's permits you to accommodate an elegant model of an elegant prototype. A winner in my book! 

Edited October 8, 2017 by NXEA!

[Tim Dubya]

Cheers,

 

you're right, well worth that extra length of track. I have a couple of T9's and have a Black Motor on the wishlist.

Have to get my head around Templot but will get there in the end.

Edited October 8, 2017 by Tim Dubya

[Mallard60022]

Thanks Captain

 

Quackers has sent me some Exacterscale fishers (in the DuckTrackPak) but my eyesight is too poor to tell which way around they go. I don't have laser vision but I do have a lamp from the Co-Op mobility shop bought on the eBay, I'll have to settle for Hornsby scale, I suppose. Pekerco fish bolts and brackets will be obtained and I plan to have electricery feeds (lots).

 

Will scribble up a track plan and attempt to convert it to Templot. TBH I'll only need the crossover & turnout templates as the rest will be SMP.

 

The best bit will obviously be off scene, with a Faller coal mine, a steel works, harbour and all the other stuff one finds in rural Devon / Cornwall.

 

Cheers

 

Dubya

You could be entirely cunningly P4 and do the whole layout 'off scene' with only an empty space as your thread discussion point (oh, I said point....sorry).

Phinkitsgoodsofar.

[Tim Dubya]

Damn, you've sussed me out.

 

Luckily I have stock of used envelopes (mostly brown) to scribble endless track plans upon.

 

Tony Art

[bgman]

Will there be a "Timmy the Tank " engine on this layout ?

 

 

Pee4 you start it might come in useful to flatten any "rogue thread spies" from taking over what looks like a rather nice project 

 

Yours

 

Bea Cider-Self

 

 

[Tim Dubya]

Timmy looks rather nice, does he come with a sandpaper attachment for leveling my rather dodgy attempt at carp-pentry?

 

Chip Pendale

[Tim Dubya]

Well, opened it up shut it, read a bit of the guides, watched the vid's, opened it up again and shut... had a cuppa...

 

Opened it again and fired this out.

 

 

So an A5 with 160 inch track centres, I though it would be a good idea to add the extra two feet between tracks, as it's a terminus station, to give that extra room for staff to work safely (is that too much or not enough).

 

Think I'm going to build this in copperclad as a warm up (and I've never built a complete copperclad point before). 

 

One thing does puzzle me, is how does one get the rail at 1:20, having used plastic chairs this inclination is already set in them but with just bullhead and copper how can this be done?

 

 

 

Oh, instead of using boxes I found these mock-up buildings I'd made years ago using plans stolen from the tinterweb from this fantastic site (I reversed the drawings does that negate copyright?)

 

 

 

 

 

Cheers

 

Dubya

Edited October 9, 2017 by Tim Dubya

[Captain Kernow]

One thing does puzzle me, is how does one get the rail at 1:20, having used plastic chairs this inclination is already set in them but with just bullhead and copper how can this be done?

Do you think that it will be noticeable at normal viewing distances?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I don't, so I've never bothered, and haven't done so with the latest OO-SF pointwork for 'Bethesda Sidings' either.

[Mallard60022]

Do you think that it will be noticeable at normal viewing distances?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I don't, so I've never bothered, and haven't done so with the latest OO-SF pointwork for 'Bethesda Sidings' either.

Agreed but TD is attempting to fox the P4 Spies and their huge magnifying spectacles that enable them to notice such things.    

[Mallard60022]

Will there be a "Timmy the Tank " engine on this layout ?

 

fullsizeoutput_118c.jpeg

 

Pee4 you start it might come in useful to flatten any "rogue thread spies" from taking over what looks like a rather nice project 

 

Yours

 

Bea Cider-Self

That looks a bit like the last Meldon Quarry Pilot loco.

B. Allast 

Edited October 9, 2017 by Mallard60022

[Captain Kernow]

Agreed but TD is attempting to fox the P4 Spies and their huge magnifying spectacles that enable them to notice such things.    

Well, quite. They are all Grown Ups and have been specially trained to spot such things.

 

However, here's a Peefore example that I made earlier. Rail soldered directly to the copper clad sleepers and Precise-o-Scale-count-the-number-of-chair-bolts-why-don't-you plastic chairs glued either side of the rail, which told me that it didn't want to be leaning over at some funny angle:

 

This one's on Callow Lane, by the way, which I am entering for the Longest Small Layout Under Construction That Should By Rights Have Been Finished About Ten Years Ago competition.

 

First prize is a cake box.

Edited October 9, 2017 by Captain Kernow

[bgman]

Mr. Dubya,

 

Just out of interest have you seen these ?

 

pre-etched-sleepers-1-6mm-4mm-scale-b9-to-a5-points

 

I've used them for a "play" to se what they're like and found they are pretty useful for making points without the tears. Solder pads are already on the sleepers and make for a slightly easier build. 

I placed them over a Templop plan and they worked fine.

[Tim Dubya]

Do you think that it will be noticeable at normal viewing distances?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I don't, so I've never bothered, and haven't done so with the latest OO-SF pointwork for 'Bethesda Sidings' either.

You're right there, I can't see numbers, ratios or angles anyway.

 

Cheers

[Captain Kernow]

Mr. Dubya,

 

Just out of interest have you seen these ?

 

pre-etched-sleepers-1-6mm-4mm-scale-b9-to-a5-points

 

I've used them for a "play" to se what they're like and found they are pretty useful for making points without the tears. Solder pads are already on the sleepers and make for a slightly easier build. 

I placed them over a Templop plan and they worked fine.

Fascinating. Are these actually metal etchings? How do you gap the sleepers?

[Captain Kernow]

You're right there, I can't see numbers, ratios or angles anyway.

Having said all that about soldering direct to the sleepers, the part when you come to glue the plastic half chairs on, is made much easier if you solder a sliver of brass or N/S strip (say 20 thou thick and no wider than the width of the rail, and perhaps about half the width of the sleeper in length, between the bottom of the rail and the top of the sleeper.

 

It is a bit trickier to build the point this way, but you do end up raising the rail a little, which helps when it comes to gluing the chairs on, as you don't have to cut the inner chair down so much (in OO) and you probably don't have to cut the outer part of the chair (with the moulded key) down at all.

[bgman]

Fascinating. Are these actually metal etchings? How do you gap the sleepers?

 

 

Hang on a minute i'll just take a picture of one I've got.

 

Back in a mo !

[Tim Dubya]

Mr. Dubya,

 

Just out of interest have you seen these ?

 

pre-etched-sleepers-1-6mm-4mm-scale-b9-to-a5-points

 

I've used them for a "play" to se what they're like and found they are pretty useful for making points without the tears. Solder pads are already on the sleepers and make for a slightly easier build. 

I placed them over a Templop plan and they worked fine.

Ooooo would you look at they.

 

Cheers but where's the fun in making things easy?

 

TBH if I had the cash they'd be in the post now. I have a stack of copper clad from Marcway to burn my fingers on, and some of the bullsheed rail from the (SSH don't tell anyone) EMGS.

 

Thanks though, it's the thought that counts to

[Captain Kernow]

Are you building this to OO-SF, Mr Dubb-U-Like?

 

[Tim Dubya]

Having said all that about soldering direct to the sleepers, the part when you come to glue the plastic half chairs on, is made much easier if you solder a sliver of brass or N/S strip (say 20 thou thick and no wider than the width of the rail, and perhaps about half the width of the sleeper in length, between the bottom of the rail and the top of the sleeper.

 

It is a bit trickier to build the point this way, but you do end up raising the rail a little, which helps when it comes to gluing the chairs on, as you don't have to cut the inner chair down so much (in OO) and you probably don't have to cut the outer part of the chair (with the moulded key) down at all.

Steady, I need to take it easy for my first one but an excellent ideal sir.