Jump to content
 

Recommended Posts

And they're now available!

image.png.2d8458055ccafbc66c2640d92ba15cae.png

https://www.shapeways.com/product/CLX6SYT3T/009-maunsell-0-6-0-1-prairie-chassis

And in O-16.5 too! 

https://www.shapeways.com/product/HSSFUWMN8/o-16-5-maunsell-0-6-0-1

image.png.fa321fb9bd803f839b9e3f57650a713c.png

https://www.shapeways.com/product/RWRKRDMJG/009-maunsell-tender-1-slab-sides

It's just occurred to me how the tender might resemble one of the old Hornby tinplate ones...

Edited by sem34090
  • Like 6
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium
3 hours ago, sem34090 said:

Yes I was wondering if a key came with it.

  • Agree 1
  • Funny 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, sem34090 said:

I could always adapt it to Coarse O Gauge standards.

I wasn't joking, Annie! At some point I will have to dig out my Hornby clockwork bits again to take wheel measurements.

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

Yes why not Sem.  3d printing is the modern equivalent of pressed tinplate (in a manner of speaking) and 'O' gauge is a good size which makes cleaning up the print a lot easier.  If I was still doing physical modelling in 'O' gauge I'd be using 3D prints as a basis for my models as well.

  • Friendly/supportive 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I have not tried 3D printing but would be tempted to print only the basic body shape and source small items like buffers, domes, chimneys and whatnot from brass or white metal commercial parts. It all adds weight, which is always a good thing and the detail in cast buffers is better.

  • Agree 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Those domes were printed to fit a Bachmann On30 2-6-0 to Anglicise it, so given the weight was already there we decided to make a dome to fit the body rather than try and get a cast or turned one to fit.

Link to post
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, Martin S-C said:

Those parts seem to be coming out with a lovely smooth finish - contrary to what I wrote earlier those buffers look really crisp; better than I see on many Shapeways products. What's your secret?

 

8 hours ago, sem34090 said:

I use a resin printer! 

 

That's about it really...

 

This is the whole point.  

 

A hobbyist, using their own resin printer at home, paying retail prices for the resin and adding a margin, can produce for sale something to a better finish than Shapeways at far less costs.

 

I often quote the example of Knuckles of this Parish, who must charge, e.g. £93 for a loco body in Shapeways FUD, but who can, and will, print you the same item in a nicer, smoother, resin for £38.

 

Anyone prepare to produce CAD or print is someone I'd love to hear from.

 

Looking good, Sem.

 

 

  • Agree 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

A trawl through the depths of one of my hard drives has unearthed several CAD files that I thought I'd lost -

image.png.04dfbd8c2f19c37541405dd766583650.png

LSWR T3 - Some of you may remember this one from last year, but I'd forgotten how far I'd got with it!

image.png.cb882e3bfbbed970f93c7f4097385843.png

The embryonic beginnings of the Fox Walker 0-6-0ST I started for James (Edwardian), subsequently done by Tom (Turbosnail) to a much higher standard!

image.png.5ecf6939878d8f6a2c838d2ef81c133f.png

My very first steam loco CAD, never completed and last touched (some 12 months after being started!) in December 2016 - LBSCR B1.

 

 

  • Like 4
  • Craftsmanship/clever 4
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...