Photo Etch Folding

[MikeTrice]

I have managed to get through my life without having to fork out on a folding tool to fold photo etched components but recently attempting to fold up some Bill Bedford Sprung W-Irons I started to reconsider. I ended up buying what is titled "The etched chip processing vise" which looks to be made in Taiwan. I will describe this device in my next post but I would like to open a discussion of etch folding tools in general and how RMWeb members find them.

Edited April 10, 2018 by MikeTrice

[MikeTrice]

This is the folding vise that I bought for around £18. The Bill Bedford etches are reasonably small so I thought I could get away with a small folding tool:

 

The top plate unscrews and there is a pin which locks the plate in various 90 degree positions:

 

In order to make the first fold in the etch I wanted to be able to fold along the edge of the tool however the pin gets in the way of being able to position the etch back far enough:

 

The only option is to use the area over the baseplate thus:

 

The principle is that the single sided razor blade is slid under the area to be folded and levered upwards. This actually proved very awkward, presumably due to lack of leverage:

 

I did eventually manage to raise the part slightly off of the baseplate:

 

With the bend partially formed I was able to push an engineering square against the etch to finish the bend:

 

Folding the w-iron itself went as I had hoped. The part was clamped in the tool along one edge:

 

An engineering square is placed under the part to be folded:

 

By lifting the baseplate and applying pressure against the square a right angled fold was easily formed:

 

The second w-iron was done the same way:

 

Try as I might I could not figure out a way of bending the remaining fold so in the end I used a pair of flat pliers and formed the fold manually:

 

Here is the finished result:

 

The last bends for the spring mounts were all done by hand:

 

In hindsight I really should have gone for a bigger tool. The locating pin is a pain and I am seriously considering removing it, leaving me to align the top plate manually.

 

How do people find other tools?

 

 

 

 

 

 

[brossard]

Mike, that's a neat looking tool.  I have managed so far to avoid buying one and I have done those Bill B etches in both 4 and 7mm.  Mine were not as neat as yours though.

 

I did have to fold the upper and lower flanges of some Roxey 4mm LSWR coaches some years ago.  These were panelled by means of half etching so they were extremely fragile.  In this case I clamped a hefty straight file to the edge of a Workmate.  This worked very well although it was a fiddle.

 

...the result:

 

 

My tuppence.

 

John

Edited April 10, 2018 by brossard

[PaulCheffus]

Hi

 

Even with some of the large tools I find the alignment pins can get in the way. I woud have folded the two narrow edges first followed by the actual W irons themselves using the fingers at the corners of the tool.

 

I do find my 5.5" Hold and Fold very useful for 2mm/N modelling however sometimes there is no alternative but to resort to pliers.

 

Cheers

 

Paul

Edited April 11, 2018 by PaulCheffus

[Quarryscapes]

I use this and it's invaluable https://eileensemporium.com/index.php?option=com_hikashop&ctrl=product&task=show&cid=152&name=hold-fold-jig-5-5-gold-edition&Itemid=189&category_pathway=1128

 

You will always run into the pins being in the wrong place occasionally, but a little forethought can decide a course of action where it isn't a problem. I've even used it as a jig to solder up coach side and ends square! 

[wirey33]

I have managed to get through my life without having to fork out on a folding tool to fold photo etched components but recently attempting to fold up some Bill Bedford Sprung W-Irons I started to reconsider. I ended up buying what is titled "The etched chip processing vise" which looks to be made in Taiwan. I will describe this device in my next post but I would like to open a discussion of etch folding tools in general and how RMWeb members find them.

 

I'm interested in getting one of these; £18 is worth a punt whereas £58 for the Eileens' is a bit steep for something I won't be using too often.

 

Can you reveal your source ?

[MikeTrice]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/322859931319

 

I might have been better off with one of these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RP-Toolz-Etch-Bending-Tool-Hold-n-Fold-13cm-long-RP-13/252378716284?hash=item3ac2f1987c:g:uasAAOSwrXdXKlhJ

Edited April 11, 2018 by MikeTrice

[MikeTrice]

Managed to lower the pin by hitting with big hammer suitably supported underneath, on a pair of pliers:

 

If I find I need the pin I can always reverse the operation.

[57xx]

I use this and it's invaluable https://eileensemporium.com/index.php?option=com_hikashop&ctrl=product&task=show&cid=152&name=hold-fold-jig-5-5-gold-edition&Itemid=189&category_pathway=1128

 

You will always run into the pins being in the wrong place occasionally, but a little forethought can decide a course of action where it isn't a problem. I've even used it as a jig to solder up coach side and ends square! 

 

I have the same one and haven't run into any insurmountable problems with it. A few folds took a bit of thought in how to position the piece, but otherwise well worth buying.

[ianLMS]

This is the one I have and really helped me with my first etched kit. Useful tool, and not as expensive as some others. £35 from Amazon.

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Trumpeter-Photo-Etched-Parts-Bender/dp/B00B845A6Q/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1523518411&sr=8-2-fkmr1&keywords=photo+etch+folding+tool

 

Ian

[chaz]

Have you tried using the tool to grip the narrow part (the tab) and bending the main body of the part up? If the tool will not grip the narrow side of the fold try putting an offset of brass the same thickness on the other side of the bolt so that the clamp sits flat. When I fold 7mm Dingham couplings I grip the narrow side with a toolmaker's clamp and find this works better than holding the body of the part.

 

Chaz

[MikeTrice]

Have you tried using the tool to grip the narrow part (the tab) and bending the main body of the part up? If the tool will not grip the narrow side of the fold try putting an offset of brass the same thickness on the other side of the bolt so that the clamp sits flat. When I fold 7mm Dingham couplings I grip the narrow side with a toolmaker's clamp and find this works better than holding the body of the part.

 

Chaz

No, the wings of the w-iron would get in the way.

[MikeTrice]

With the pin made ineffective the etch now fits in the tool:

 

Which means I can make the first fold with an Engineer's Square. No more fiddling with razor blades:

 

The first fold is made:

 

I realised that if I had some spacers to use I could form the second narrow side fold in the tool, so out to the garage to find and old piece of frame brass. Now there is a name from the past:

 

A 10mm slice was cut from one end and cleaned up:

 

The idea is that the 10mm slice acts as a spacer to allow the fret and its one bent side to be clamped in the tool:

 

A bit like this. I also used a second piece of the frame brass to put the other side of the clamping screw to try and keep it level(ish):

 

The second fold produced, unfortunately not 90 degrees so needs tweaking with the flat nose pliers:

 

The w-iron itself was folded as before:

 

With this as the final result:

 

[MikeTrice]

An earlier search of the Internet showed up some home made folding devices based on hinges. The most interesting used a flush hinge. So on one of the hottest days of the year so far this idiot decided to do some metalwork out on the patio.

 

The basic ingrediants used, a flush hinge, some 1" * 1" * 1/8" brass angle and some 4mm bolts:

 

A length of brass is marked off and sawn to match the hinge length:

 

A couple of pieces of 12thou etch scrap was placed between the top working hinge flap and the brass and the unit clamped tight. The holes for the side hinge are scribed and centre punched:

 

The holes were drilled 4mm but I subsequently opened them up to 5mm:

 

The basic unit bolted up and excess thread cut off:

 

The face of the working hinge and brass angle were filed flush, draw filing for better finish:

 

The edge of the hinge was then filed at 45 degrees:

 

And that is the unit finished. Does it work?

 

A Bill Bedford W-Iron in place ready for the first fold using an engineer's square. The unit is clamped together with a couple of 1" G Clamps from Wilko:

 

First bend formed:

 

The fret turned round ready to form the second fold. In this instance the first fold is out of the way in the middle void of the tool:

 

Next the two W-Irons:

 

And with fold formed:

 

Yes, really happy with this. Just need to ensure I don't put the new tool somewhere safe and mislay it:

 

Oh yes, cost around £5 to make and £4 for the clamps. I am sure it could be produced much cheaper by shopping around for parts.

Edited April 20, 2018 by MikeTrice

[57xx]

How about using a couple of strong bulldog or fold-back clips instead of the G clamps, would be a lot less cumbersome.

[PenrithBeacon]

I can understand folk going to these lengths for an expensive loco or coach kit, but for the humble W iron?

[sharris]

I can understand folk going to these lengths for an expensive loco or coach kit, but for the humble W iron?

I think if I was experimenting with a new bit of kit I'd practice first with something cheap like a w-iron assembly rather than potentially bu99ering up an expensive kit (not implying that Mike ever bu99ers things up!)

 

And for demonstration purposes what better than something that has plenty of folds in close proximity.

[MikeTrice]

not implying that Mike ever bu99ers things up!

 

Frequently, but I usually manage to bodge my way out of it.